Author Topic: Ketland lock details  (Read 2466 times)

Offline RockLock92

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Ketland lock details
« on: March 24, 2018, 08:04:09 AM »
Recently got ahold of a Chambers early Ketland lock and just got a chance to take it apart and look closely at it. There aren’t any teeth on the top jaw or the cock. Is this typical of English locks of the period? I’ve only ever seen and used Germanic locks up to this point so this is all new to me. I was planning on just cutting some in, but I figured I’d ask first. For all I know the teeth could be unnecessary. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brad

Offline smart dog

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2018, 02:50:09 PM »
Hi,
I cut teeth in all of my locks.  An English lock of that period likely would have teeth.

dave
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Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2018, 03:18:58 PM »
On a few locks I have cut checkering with a file made for that job.
Held the top jaw upside down with a nut and bolt made that part easy.
Grabs the leather and no skidding.

Bob Roller

Offline Jim Chambers

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2018, 04:54:50 PM »
The jaws on all locks should have "teeth" cut with a chisel.  It would be difficult to cast those parts with the "teeth" already there.  So, we cast those pieces smooth and leave it up to the individual user to adjust to his desire.

Offline smylee grouch

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2018, 06:04:14 PM »
I've had some luck using an engraving tool and holding it as Bob suggested.

Turtle

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2018, 06:09:35 PM »
thanks Jim--didn't know that!

Offline Frank

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2018, 06:50:38 PM »
What do you recommend Jim? A small cold chisel.?

Offline WKevinD

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2018, 07:04:07 PM »
I use a graver at a pretty sharp angle, it lifts a sharp curl that can be repeated. I also screw the top jaw to a block of wood and do the same, always going away from the cock screw on both top and bottom jaws.

Kevin
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Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2018, 07:11:33 PM »
I glue the top jaw upsidedown in Bondo on a small block of wood.  With a scribe, I draw a grid in the cast steel and raise a burr at each intersection using a very sharp prick punch.  I set the punch on the intersection facing toward the front at a significant angle, perhaps 70 degrees, and give the punch one strike with a hammer.  Heat from a propane torch releases the top jaw from the Bondo.
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Offline smart dog

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2018, 07:15:16 PM »
Hi,
The best tool I have found is a small (3/32") round bottomed graver or die sinker's chisel.  It creates a cut that looks like a little parachute from above with the tooth at the top of the chute. 

dave 
"The main accomplishment of modern economics is to make astrology look good."

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2018, 08:08:34 PM »
I don't find my flints going anywhere teeth or no teeth.
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Offline Frank

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2018, 08:24:34 PM »
I don't find my flints going anywhere teeth or no teeth.

Chambers locks are all I have ever used for at least the past ten years and never had a problem either. Never cut teeth in the hammer jaws.

Offline hanshi

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Re: Ketland lock details
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2018, 08:58:46 PM »
Never paid much attention to the cock surfaces and I have locks from several places including Chambers.  The only time I ever had slippage was when (very rare) the cock screw loosened. 
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