Author Topic: Beck shaping suggestions (Read 3264 times)

Mauser06 · « **on:** March 26, 2018, 06:42:54 PM »

Figured this would be a good time to seek some further direction on my Beck turkey gun.

Things to note....the trigger guard isn't final yet. It's inlet but probably going to go shade deeper. The side plate isn't inlet yet. Wanted to make sure I had that side panel reduced enough..I have 1 side of the forestock to take down farther between the entry pipe and muzzle.

Its not in it's FINAL shape. Have a lot of blending and cleaning up..the butt stock needs some wood removed and defined and blended yet....just thought I'd get some guidance before I get back at it. Will further define the lock panels and such too.

As usual, I appreciate it!

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #1 on:** March 26, 2018, 07:14:06 PM »

probably ought to post on the building forum....

Mauser06 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 26, 2018, 07:16:08 PM »

Just took me 5 minutes to find the post because it wasn't where I thought I put it!

Mauser06 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2018, 09:37:57 PM »

Thanx to whoever moved this!

Hemo · « **Reply #4 on:** March 27, 2018, 01:27:23 AM »

Overall shape looks good to my eye, but you are about to totally lose the lower rear portion of the left-side flat panel into the sideplate! Hopefully you have enough wood on that left side to go deeper and restore a flat edge below the plate, then cut down the top edge to match. The lock mortise on the right side looks to be okay. You probably haven't done much shaping on the cheekpiece yet, but it looks like the lower straight edge of the cheekpiece could come upward at the front and go back to about where your lower edge is at the back. Maybe construct a long line from the lower cheekpiece edge to about the rear lock bolt for guidance.
I like what you've got so far if you save that left-side panel!

Gregg

rich pierce · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2018, 01:52:25 AM »

Quote from: Hemo on March 27, 2018, 01:27:23 AM

Overall shape looks good to my eye, but you are about to totally lose the lower rear portion of the left-side flat panel into the sideplate! Hopefully you have enough wood on that left side to go deeper and restore a flat edge below the plate, then cut down the top edge to match. The lock mortise on the right side looks to be okay.
I like what you've got so far if you save that left-side panel!

Gregg

If concerned make a new sideplate. I’ve never used a commercial one.

TommyG · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2018, 02:39:03 AM »

Like Rich said, get yourself come .090 brass, and make one. The hard part is done, you have the hole pattern, just make one a bit smaller than what you have. Or, tweak the one you have. You might be able to file a gentle curve along the bottom and reduce the width of the tail to get you out of the woods. Either way, you need to do this before you inlet obviously. I see your bench has the dreaded ETK2M(every tool know to man) disease. I hate when that happens, and it happens often to me.

t.caster · « **Reply #7 on:** March 28, 2018, 01:02:01 AM »

Hemo's advice is right on about the angle of the check piece, and I would shorten both ends of the check piece about a 1/2". Maybe more at the back end. Get your dividers out and look at the proportions of Beck's originals for reference.

Mauser06 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2018, 01:31:38 AM »

Thanx all! Those were 2 areas of "concern".

There is some of the goofy figured maple in the area around the trigger....my rasp caught and tore a bit more than I wanted....by the time it cleaned up, I was left pretty lean lol.

The cheeck piece was a giant..I reduced it down but haven't finalized the shape.

Tommy, I purposely made a small bench so it can't hold everything...lol. I gotta go through the majority of the chisels and sell them. I just don't need them. Collect them from time to time and see what I like and use and resell them and buy more. Really only use a couple lol.

TommyG · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2018, 02:06:18 AM »

Mauser, whatever you do - don't sell them!!! Old chisels and files are like gold for recycling into special tools you will need in the future. Down the road you get yourself a oxy-acetylene or mapp set up, anneal them and turn them into special gouges, scrapers etc, then re-harden & temper... I find that's half the fun of this is turning other's junk into useful tools. By the way, your Beck is coming along nicely, you did a nice job with the patchbox.

Mauser06 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2018, 02:28:46 AM »

That's a good idea! All of them are fairly old. German/England etc.

Thanx! That was my first wooden patchbox. Its actually a little thin..I have another waiting to be shaped. But I'm happy with how it turned out. For my first longrifle build, I'm happy with the entire gun so far. Biggest "mistake" is the tang bolt. When enlarging the hole it wandered slightly left of center. I can live with it.

Gunna go put a few more hours in now. Got the left side of the forestock done yesterday. Gunna work on the right tonight.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2018, 03:15:08 AM »

In this picture, I see wood that has to be removed on the side plate side of the stock...more at the back end that toward the muzzle. That may make a difference in your panel, as when you remove wood there, the panel will increase in size. Overall, the rifle looks Beckish.

Mauser06 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2018, 04:47:14 AM »

Good eye Taylor. I hold the dang thing in my hands and didn't notice that. I've noticed a lot of stuff in pics that I miss in person.

I'm not shooting for a bench copy....I don't have the skills developed yet...but I'd like the finished product to be something that is recognizable as a Beck.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2018, 04:54:38 AM »

Don't take anything off the forward end...your stock looks equal on both sides, but the forestock dishes in further on the lock side than on the off side.

Mauser06 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 29, 2018, 08:28:35 AM »

Thanx Taylor! I see what you mean. I roughed in the lock panels..but haven't finished defining them yet.

Been looking over original Becks. I see the cheek piece. Hopefully I can get mine there...

My wrist/nose needs attention...but I haven't done anything there yet.

Also while looking at originals, I noticed the same area of the side plate often ended up pretty close to the lower edge of the lock panel much like mine...I am using a side plate from TOTW...I drilled the lock bolts where I wanted them...that's where they lined up. And like I said, there was a little funky wood in that area that tore out a bit more than I wanted.

Have a few weeks to get her done before turkey season. I hope to get it there. If it's not ready, it's not ready.....but I think it aughta be.

Will make another thread when I feel it's "done" prior to finish.

I hope to carve this one.....but, I can't draw worth a dang. I can cut it...but can't cut what you can't draw...lol. I have a few tricks to try...if I can't get it, I will cut mouldings and a tang carving and be happy with my first longrifle...but I'd really like to carve it.

Maineshops · « **Reply #15 on:** March 29, 2018, 06:43:37 PM »

If you figure out how to transfer a pattern on to wood please post. I too think I can carve it but not draw it. I’ve tried several iron on methods with little success. Dan

Mauser06 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 29, 2018, 07:03:23 PM »

Have you tried carbon paper???

I found some that says it's specifically made for transferring patterns onto wood and canvas. I haven't tried it yet...

I have tracing paper to get the design I like...

So will trace the design with tracing paper...then put the carbon paper in place and put the tracing paper on top of the carbon and trace it again...should transfer it to the wood...

Once it's on the wood it'll likely need tweaked and I'd like to make some changes just so I'm not a complete copier. Lol.

Will it work? I'm not 100% sure. In my head it sounds good though lol

TommyG · « **Reply #17 on:** March 29, 2018, 07:50:26 PM »

At Dixon's last July, Ed Wenger was talking about this very thing in one of the ALR seminars. He could speak to it more to than I, but he mentioned that he uses the clear Mylar you can get at places like Office Depot. He then lays this on the stock to get his drawing borders, then draws the carving with a fine Sharpie on the Mylar. Once satisfied, the Mylar is laid back on the stock and moved to the desired position for final carving and taped in place. He then slips the carbon paper under the Mylar and transfers that way. Like I said, Ed could speak to this with more detail. But I thought that was a pretty cool way to transfer the drawing. Plus, he then saves and catalogs the Mylar drawing for future use.

Mauser06 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 30, 2018, 01:40:22 AM »

Interesting!

I've been super curious about how so many guys can draw such great designs. I don't have an artistic bone in my body obviously lol. When my builds get better I might have to commission carving and engraving if I can't do it myself...but I want to be able to do it myself. I feel like I can cut the material...but can't cut what you can't draw lol.

Marcruger · « **Reply #19 on:** March 30, 2018, 03:50:49 AM »

I have been sketching and drawing all my life. I will share the true secret to drawing: Draw it and look at it. Change the parts that don't look right. Keep doing that until it looks right. Really.

Another trick is to draw it until it looks right, then go look at it in the mirror. Any error will literally appear to be doubly bad. It'll jump out at you.

Having something to copy certainly helps. Just keep drawing, erasing and comparing until you are satisfied.

I am having fun with primitive folk-art scrimshaw. Being an engineer, I have to keep telling my detail, creative side, Just draw what you see. Don't try to improve it. You like it because it IS funky looking."

I hope this helps in some way. God Bless and best wishes, Marc

Mauser06 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 30, 2018, 10:48:33 AM »

Thanx Marc!

I will definitely try it! I'm not giving up. I think eventually it might come together...

I think tracing original carvings may help develop my hand and eye? I don't know...worth a shot.

I've never been artistic. Just never been something I even attempted..let alone became proficient at.

I was told I'd make a poor gun builder because my patience level is probably in the negatives. I get frustrated easily. I had literally no hand tools skills on top of that... minimal wood or metal working experience.

To me, gun building is actually relaxing and puts me in a good spot for the day. I especially like the shaping and such where you can make progress and see progress. I've learned my limitations and when to put the tools down and shut out the light.

I really enjoy the process. I want to get better and really want to be able to carve and engrave. I'm going to look at taking classes or something as well in the near future.

I'm a hunter and right now, building guns for myself to hunt with. In the future, I'd like to sell my work and even take on some work. I have a ways to go...and I'm learning every day.

Just really enjoyable to me to take a piece of wood and pile of rough parts and make a gun. I've killed 2 buck and a doe with my last build...I'm extremely proud of that. Just something special about knowing before my hands got on to those parts, they were pretty much useless.

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Author Topic: Beck shaping suggestions (Read 3264 times)

Hemo

Maineshops