Brass pan charger as a knapper????

[Roger Fisher]

Since it hangs around my neck and that way I can usually find it, I am finding myself using my brass tube pan primer as a knapper when I feel the edge needs it.  I can't figure if this is unsafe or not since it is brass and non sparking.  Help me out here, am I doing something I shouldn't?  I probably am but can't cypher what it is! Of course I knapp when she is on halfdraw.  I saves me from hanging that combo knapper, brush, pick round my bod somewhere

I know also that that brass primer is a mini grenade; but seems like it is ok since the pin is not pulled

[Dale Halterman]

Been doing the same thing for years, Roger, and never gave it a thought. I just don't see how it could cause a problem. But now that you brought it up, I will probably cringe every time I do from now on.

Thanks a lot.

Dale H

[Harnic]

Sounds like a reasonable practise to me Roger.  Some of us get way too many gadgets strung around our necks out there!

[Scott Bumpus]

Seems safe enough but pay no attention if I move to the other end of the line when you do it. 

[jim m]

yup, do it all the time

[Roger Fisher]

Been doing the same thing for years, Roger, and never gave it a thought. I just don't see how it could cause a problem. But now that you brought it up, I will probably cringe every time I do from now on.

Thanks a lot.

Dale H

Always trying to help

[40Haines]

yup, do it all the time

ME 2

[Daryl]

Never tried it before, but certainly will from now on  -  just to get a 'rise' from 'some' people. (did I type that?_

[bryanbrown]

Why not use the hammer?  What some folks call the frizzen. 
On an empty firelock, with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, set the cock to fired (all the way down) and close the hammer down on the flint. 

Wrap you left hand around the stock, index finger in trigger bow, thumb on the thumbplate (the flat area near the top of most styles of hammer) and firmly press the edge down on the flint.

While doing this use your right hand to go to 1/2 cock.

Sometimes you need to repeat 2 or 3 times, but this gives a nice fresh edge square to the face of the hammer.  You will see fine flakes of flint in the pan.  Just blow them out of the way and check spark.

If your flint is the right size (within 1/8 in of the face of the hammer at 1/2 cock) this works great and really extends the life of most flints.

[Daryl]

I knap the flint with the frizzen most times as it's fast, but there are times when the little shiny hard spot won't flake off and something with more clout is needed.

[Roger Fisher]

Why not use the hammer?  What some folks call the frizzen. 
On an empty firelock, with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, set the cock to fired (all the way down) and close the hammer down on the flint. 

Wrap you left hand around the stock, index finger in trigger bow, thumb on the thumbplate (the flat area near the top of most styles of hammer) and firmly press the edge down on the flint.

While doing this use your right hand to go to 1/2 cock.

Sometimes you need to repeat 2 or 3 times, but this gives a nice fresh edge square to the face of the hammer.  You will see fine flakes of flint in the pan.  Just blow them out of the way and check spark.

If your flint is the right size (within 1/8 in of the face of the hammer at 1/2 cock) this works great and really extends the life of most flints.

I'll try that (if I can remember) Thanks for the tip!

[hanshi]

Okay, if I'm understanding this correctly you simply press the frizzen against the flint as you pull the cock back to half cock?  This sounds fast and simple.  I'll be trying this next time I need a knap .   Great tip!

[Black Hand]

I use the back edge of my knife as I prime from the horn. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Here's an accoutrement that has served me well for performing the job of knapping the flint.  It's made from a shank from a screw driver...the last four inches, and a 2" long piece of 1/2" dia. copper bar.  Copper is much preferred over brass...it delivers the energy slowly into the stone, creating a nice flake rather than a crushed edge.  The business end is shaped like a blunt chisel so that all the energy goes into a small spot on the flint.  Usually, when a flint fails to make sparks, it's because there's a small smooth spot on the stone that makes a bearing rather than a scratcher.  Careful examination of the flint for the culprit, and a well directed blow of the copper, and the offending knob is gone, leaving a sharp edge to engage the steel again.  And it doubles as a screw driver for replacing the stone when it is worn out.  Couldn't be without it.

[JCKelly]

My brass pan charger occasionally leaks a dribble, so I clean it out. I also keep it covered or in the bag when firing.
That brass tube is nice & heavy, machined out of bar stock.
Should the priming ignite in it, there will be some worthwhile pieces of brass flying about & perhaps through one's hide.
So my next project is to make one of antler. If it blows less damage should be done.
There is a reason, by the way, that old flasks are made in two pieces joined by a very weak soldered butt joint. Lousey joint design for strength. One does not want one's powder container to be strong. Powder is supposed to explode. Sometimes it does so when one might prefer it not. In that unlikely, but really happens, event a weak powder container permits one to retain most of one's (burned) flesh.
Don't know anything about what knapping does to a brass priming tube, but I respectfully suggest you reconsider hanging it about your neck.