Best roundball molds?

[Iktomi]

 I have a pretty good stockpile of lead, several hundred pounds of mostly old 1-2# fishing sinkers and dive weights. Most of it is pure, or nearly so, as it's pretty soft stuff. It seems a shame to be buying roundball when I have all this ammo-to-be laying around. What's the best value for a mo0ld, as far as durability and trueness? Lyman? Lee? Or something else? I do want to get a bag mold and ladle for field use as well, but I'm mostly speaking of shop tools here.

 Thanks in advance.

[hanshi]

I have and use molds from at least half a dozen, or more, makers.  The majority of my round ball molds, however, are Lee; double cavity if available.  The uniformity of  ball from both cavities is remarkable.  Other's experience may differ but this has been mine.  Also they are inexpensive and durable.

[Daryl]

Depends on size. Brass/bronze or iron mould blocks will normally last longer and are well made.  Outfits like NOE make excellent, extremely high quality aluminum moulds that make cheap aluminum moulds like Lee pale in comparison.

Lots of guys use nothing but Lee moulds - they are inexpensive compared to all others and work just fine for a lot of guys - I have 20 or more of them myself, - but- they are not as well made as ANY of the others I have, from: NOE, Tanner, Ohaus, RCBS, Saeco and Lyman.

Most of my 'standard' iron block moulds are Lyman. I have many single cavity, couple 4-cavity moulds and even a 6 cavity Lyman blocks. My Ohause are DC RB moulds, along with a couple RCBS DC moulds, round and conical. I have a set of Italian - Petroni or some-such name - mould blocks in .684" RB that are as good as any other of the iron blocks I have.

I now like to spray the interior and exterior of all my moulds, regardless of what they are made, with moly bullet spray.  This coating assists in the moulds letting go of the ball as well as preventing any lead sticking to them. Rapine Mould Prep was another good mould coating.  Soot from candle, match or propane lighter also works, but is not as permanent and needs removal and replenishing now and then.

Much also depends on what size or sizes you need as to what size is available from which maker.  Tanner will make any size you want, for about $40.00 or 45.00 US. You will need Lyman or Lee handles for those.
Lee moulds cost from about $20.00 to $30.00 for single or DC & come with handles.

RCBS and Lyman moulds come without handles (buy separately) and run same as NOE moulds (no handles) - about - $90.00 to $150.00 or so, depending on size and # of cavities.

[moleeyes36]

Daryl pretty much gave you the full $10 tour of moulds.  They will all do the job to various degrees of precision and some last longer than others.  Like many things, price increases with quality. 

You say you have lead from different sources that probably has some impurities in it.  I suggest you weigh and measure the balls whenever you switch lead sources because they may well be different sizes and weights.

Mole Eyes

[Iktomi]

 Thanks for the lowdown guys. It looks like iron/bronze is the way to go. I don't mind a few extra bucks for something that is truly better in quality.

  moleeyes, good point on the lead density. The dive weights I expect are pretty homogenous, calibrating ballast needs to be pretty accurate. The fishing sinkers probably less so, and will be something to keep an eye on.

[Nessmuck]

Steel molds hold the heat better ,period.

[Daryl]

Thanks for the lowdown guys. It looks like iron/bronze is the way to go. I don't mind a few extra bucks for something that is truly better in quality.

  moleeyes, good point on the lead density. The dive weights I expect are pretty homogenous, calibrating ballast needs to be pretty accurate. The fishing sinkers probably less so, and will be something to keep an eye on.

Fishing sinkers oft times are even made from battery lead. That is very hard - too hard for balls. Dive weights might be pure lead, or soft enough to use. The softer, the better as they are easier to mould/draw/deform into the bore with a nice tight patch.  Many guys use hardened lead as in range salvage for the balls for their smoothbores with perfect results. Many of us have somewhat undersize RB moulds for our rifles, so we can use harder lead when pure lead is hard to find.

[RichG]

the new Lee molds with the steel alignment pins are much better than the original style with the grooves for alignment. I do prefer Iron mold myself.

[Sharpsman]

At age 78 it's not my intention to sit and cast round balls when I can get swaged balls from Hornady!  I've been casting since 1948 and I do believe I've paid my 'dues' to date! I've had excellent accuracy results using the Hornady stuff....and no back pain from two herniated disc in my lower back!

Whatever works...do it!

[Telgan]

Just a note that N.O.E. does not do round ball molds. I wish they did . . .

[Bob Roller]

the new Lee molds with the steel alignment pins are much better than the original style with the grooves for alignment. I do prefer Iron mold myself.

I have an old iron Lyman mould for the .575 ball and I got it from E.M.Farris
in 1953 and it still does a good job.Take care of them and they last for a very long time.

Bob Roller

[Turtle]

  I have an old Saeco mold that is the best I've used. I don't think they are still made. They were supposed to have used a special alloy.

[hanshi]

Speaking of Saeco molds, Turtle, I agree.  Long ago I bought two 4 cavity w/handles.  They were for "other than longrifle" projectiles but they are the finest molds I've ever used.  I have too many molds and might possibly have another stuck somewhere.  Lyman molds are very good even though now rather expensive.  I have them in .40, .445 and .562 that I can recall off hand.

[Daryl]

I have a nice .570" Lyman that casts .574" x .574" which is perfect. I bought it, almost new, from an outfit in Washington state -

My Saeco mould is a double cavity casting long bullets of small calibre.  A beautifully made mould it is.

Just counted my moulds. 81 sets of blocks - some singles, many DC, a couple 4 cavity Lyman and a 6 cavity Lyman as well as a  4-cavity NOE mould casting 51gr. FNBT pellets.

I would estimate 1/2, maybe a bit higher %age of my moulds are Lee moulds.

[Iktomi]

Fishing sinkers oft times are even made from battery lead. That is very hard - too hard for balls. Dive weights might be pure lead, or soft enough to use. The softer, the better as they are easier to mould/draw/deform into the bore with a nice tight patch.  Many guys use hardened lead as in range salvage for the balls for their smoothbores with perfect results. Many of us have somewhat undersize RB moulds for our rifles, so we can use harder lead when pure lead is hard to find.

   Most of these sinkers were cast by a guy I knew, now deceased. His primary source for lead were the network of plumbers he had. He had a small business supplying bait and tackle shops up and down the North Coast out here. While I haven't examined every weight, those I have are quite soft, similar to the fingernail test to the store boughten lead I'm now shooting.  I estimate that I have 7-800 lbs of the stuff so I'm gonna give it a shot and see how it works.

[Daryl]

Good luck, Rick. I'd get at it before they make possession of lead illegal in Ca.

[Iktomi]

 Daryl, it's darn near that already. Next year, we will not be allowed to use any lead in any firearm, muzzleloaders included, for hunting purposes. It's been lead free for several years in certain parts of the state that is condor habitat, and the wildlife biologists have determined that the blood levels of lead in the condors and other raptors has not been reduced by the restrictions, and have recommended scrapping the lead ban idea. In this state however, decisions are not made based upon facts and reason. It's all agenda-driven regulation here.

 I'll shut up now, I don't want to get political. I can't wait to escape to America. 

[Turtle]

I just did a search and see they still sell seaco round ball molds. pretty pricy, but worth it. I use mostly Lee molds and they are OK and cheaper, but not in the league with seaco.

[Iktomi]

I just did a search and see they still sell seaco round ball molds. pretty pricy, but worth it. I use mostly Lee molds and they are OK and cheaper, but not in the league with seaco.

  Thanks, just placed an order for a saeco .530 RB mold and handles. Not cheap, but it looks like a good tool that'll work well and last a long time.

[Daryl]

Hey guys, I was looking at some 'other stuff' at Midway and found this mould release.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/763758/frankford-arsenal-drop-out-bullet-mold-release-agent-and-lube-6-oz-aerosol

[stubshaft]

I can't argue that SAECO makes good molds as I have a couple that cast perfectly and are over 35 years old.  For unusual diameter RB molds I order from Tanner or Moose Molds.

[Turtle]

 I smoke my molds with a candle to help releasing.

[m1garand_man]

At age 78 it's not my intention to sit and cast round balls when I can get swaged balls from Hornady!  I've been casting since 1948 and I do believe I've paid my 'dues' to date! I've had excellent accuracy results using the Hornady stuff....and no back pain from two herniated disc in my lower back!

Whatever works...do it!

I used to cast a lot of bullets, I mean thousands a year but stopped because I have two young kids who both ended up with elevated blood lead levels due to lead I was unintentionally tracking into the house from the garage.

Bottom line if you have small children cast on some part of the property where they don't go or don't cast at all. I think the biggest issue for me was the smelting I was doing. That liberates a lot of lead oxide dust when you remove the slag from the pot.

I will cast again when the kids are done growing. When bones are growing the body will confuse lead for calcium and store it away in the bones which is why children are so susceptible not to mention they put everything in thier mouth.

[Scota4570]

I am a Lee guy.  You can cast a bunch of perfect balls/bullets real fast with a LEE gang mold.  I use MAPP gas soot in the cavities.  Lube the alignment pins and spurge plate with moly paste to prevent galling.  I also prefer the  largest LEE bottom pour pot and a Lyman thermometer.  I am pretty results oriented when casting. 

Lead?  Drop your ingot from a few feet onto a concrete floor.  It is clunks it is pure enough. 

IF it rings is to something harder, save it for CF bullets.   

Anything harder may-possibly have zinc in it.  IF so it will cast like cream of wheat.  IT will also contaminate everything it touches ruining that alloy and pot too.  Terrible stuff.   You might melt harder stuff in a separate pot and see if it melts into smooth liquid before adding it to known good alloy. 

[Turtle]

 I cast on top of the kitchen stove with the exh fan on in cold weather, warm weather on the deck.