Composite Fowling Gun circa 1756

[Robert Wolfe]

This is my 6th gun though first from a blank. I started it under the outstanding guidance of Ken Gahagan and Ian Pratt at the Canter’s Cave gun building workshop back in January. I got it about 70-80% done at the workshop and finished it up a few weeks ago at home. It is based on the Roger Lewis 1756 marked American stocked fowler shown in Of Sorts for Provincials (pg 97). I used a 46”  .75 cal Dutch (Colerain) musket barrel instead of the original 54” .55 cal because that’s what I had. The hardware is all fabricated except for the barrel, lock, and trigger guard. The lock is the Davis Colonial. I did the file work on the trigger guard but am not sure where the casting came from as Ken kindly provided it to me. I know some don’t like the aged look but I do. I think I get a little bit better with the aging with each gun but it is not as easy as you might think. I still can’t get over a mental block on buggering up the wood though. Perhaps if I have a couple of scotches I’ll get up the nerve to drag it around in my gravel driveway…

I can’t say enough about the class and opportunity to work with Ian and Ken - they are amazing artists. Ken in particular spent a lot of time with me as he likes the Lewis gun. I will be tickled if that shows a bit. Constructive criticism is very welcome. 

[conquerordie]

I have a soft spot for provincial guns. I think its very believable. Are the pipes pinned or are the tabs folded over in the barrel channel? Can't tell on my tiny phone screen. The ageing in the barrel is nice as well.
Greg

[Robert Wolfe]

Greg - the pipes are pinned. Thanks for your comment.

[Dennis Glazener]

I have the same mental block about banging up the wood but we both end up with aged metal and new looking wood! Guess we will have to pass them off as re-stock of old parts
Dennis

[rich pierce]

That’s a good looking gun all right.  You’ll love that Davis lock, I think.  Nice sideplate too.  Overall, really fine.

[BOB HILL]

Fine looking job there. Love your side plate too.  It looks better than the original, I think. How thick was the brass you used on it and your buttplate?
Bob

[k gahagan]

Robert, I think your gun is fantastic! You did a great job with your first build from a blank. As you found out you get a lot more flexibility in the build and get to impart some of your own personality into the piece. Side plate, thimbles, butt plate everything you made from scraps of metal look great. Aging on the metal very well done, looks believable. you'll have to work up the nerve to work on the wood aging but really good job. That trigger guard is a Dutch style guard by Reeves Georing.

[Justin Urbantas]

very nice looking. Interesting aged finish.  I would love to hear how you did it.

[alex e.]

I like it. Nice work!!

[wattlebuster]

I like it. LOTS

[Dan'l 1946]

Great job! When I was young---long ago--there were many of these guns around, often mounted above a fireplace. Your gun looks like these antiques did and could pass for one. Again, great gun!
                                                         Dan

[Robert Wolfe]

Bob, the buttplate was about 3/32 inch thick. I think I cut the side plate out of the same stuff.

[Robert Wolfe]

Justin - not sure how to describe the ageing succinctly as it is a bit of this and a bit of that but I'll try.

The iron was filed to remove almost all production marks and sharp corners and then grossly over-browned with no carding between coats. Then I scrubbed it back with a scotch bright but not too agressively. I then let it rust a bit more to color whatever I brightened up. Then I scrubbed it again with a sponge and baking soda in a bucket of water to kill the process. I then oiled with WD40 and waxed Johnson's floor wax using a hot air gun. To color the brass I used a bit of brass black but don't really like the color it gives so I get most of my color from stabilized liver of sulfur (I use Cool Tools Patina Gel). I vary the strength to get different browns. I also tried ferric chloride mixed with ferric nitrate per instructions on the Science Company website (they have recipes for many patinas) though I'm not sure I liked its effects that much. It pitted the brass a bit though perhaps I left in on too long. On the wood I finish per usual but on the last few coats I mix in powdered carbon black with my oil varnish to work into the crevices and other places I want dark. I have the barrel and hardware installed at this point and allow it to dry in the places where a rag won't easily remove it. Once dry I'll buff it to blend it out sometimes with a bit of turpentine on the rag. Then I use shoe polish wax (black and/or redish brown) heavily everywhere to buildup "gunk" where it wants to build up. Then I finish the whole gun (metal and wood) with several coats of a good furniture wax. All along the way I buff frequently with a piece of coarse fabric. My goal is to look like an antique gun.

[Turtle]

 I like the word "composite". That's what most of my builds are. True to time and place, but not copies of any one gun. I'll answer with that name  when someone calls a gun of mine a "Fantasy gun".

[Hungry Horse]

My feeling is the wood finish, and the metal finishes, are in conflict. Either the wood is too smooth, or the metal is too rough. Since I love the wood finish, I would most likely rub back the metal serfaces to reflect an old campaigner that has been well cared for.

 Hungry Horse

[B.Barker]

I really like the rod pipes.

[Justin Urbantas]

Justin - not sure how to describe the ageing succinctly as it is a bit of this and a bit of that but I'll try.

The iron was filed to remove almost all production marks and sharp corners and then grossly over-browned with no carding between coats. Then I scrubbed it back with a scotch bright but not too agressively. I then let it rust a bit more to color whatever I brightened up. Then I scrubbed it again with a sponge and baking soda in a bucket of water to kill the process. I then oiled with WD40 and waxed Johnson's floor wax using a hot air gun. To color the brass I used a bit of brass black but don't really like the color it gives so I get most of my color from stabilized liver of sulfur (I use Cool Tools Patina Gel). I vary the strength to get different browns. I also tried ferric chloride mixed with ferric nitrate per instructions on the Science Company website (they have recipes for many patinas) though I'm not sure I liked its effects that much. It pitted the brass a bit though perhaps I left in on too long. On the wood I finish per usual but on the last few coats I mix in powdered carbon black with my oil varnish to work into the crevices and other places I want dark. I have the barrel and hardware installed at this point and allow it to dry in the places where a rag won't easily remove it. Once dry I'll buff it to blend it out sometimes with a bit of turpentine on the rag. Then I use shoe polish wax (black and/or redish brown) heavily everywhere to buildup "gunk" where it wants to build up. Then I finish the whole gun (metal and wood) with several coats of a good furniture wax. All along the way I buff frequently with a piece of coarse fabric.

Excellent. It definitely looks antique. Very convincing

[Ed Wenger]

The more I look at this, the more I like it.  I would tend to agree with the sentiment of a little less on the metal parts, and/or more on the wood, but as a “newly restocked” piece it’s very believable.  Very unique piece, and very well done!


        Ed

[Robert Wolfe]

I agree with you guys on the wood versus metal.  It is intended to be a composite parts gun built from a mix of older parts. The barrel is an early 1700 Dutch musket barrel, the lock mid century and so on. I do, though, have to find the right balance wood/metal balance. My goal is to look like an antique gun, not a newly built gun.

[Bob Roller]

ANY imperfections on this one would also be found on an old one.
This reminds me of some of Tom Dawson's re-creations of famous
relics and IMHO a fine job.

Bob Roller

[n stephenson]

Robert, I really like your piece !  I always enjoy seeing guns that are not "standard fair" . Your rendition of a "composite" gun is a nice change. Like others I agree that the balance of aging between wood and metal is different but, I can totally understand why. I too have been through the dilemma of having nicely aged metal , and not being able to "pull the trigger" on aging the wood. That aside, your gun really does look like a believable  colony built piece. To be your first "stick" build you really did well!! Getting the shaping right on such a piece isn't that easy!  VERY NICE JOB!!     What`s next?   Nate

[Pennsylvania Dutchman]

Very nicely done! I really like this gun. I do have a question and I'm not trying to disparage this gun in any way. Many have remarked that it is a very believable composite gun as a restock since the metal is aged and the wood looks new. Would a colonial gunsmith restocked a gun like this without cleaning up the metal? It is a lot of work to stock a gun, I can't imagine not refinishing or cleaning up the metal as well.
Mark

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Great gun!!  Now we need a range report!! Go rough that wood up at the range.  Great job!

[rich pierce]

On a newly made composite gun I would expect some mismatching of parts and different wear on different parts, with the stock being newest. Pretty much just how you did it. 

[Greg Pennell]

I like it just as it is...the wood will age itself with good honest use. I’ve never tried any aging techniques, but plan to on some upcoming builds, so I appreciate all the tips and techniques.

Greg