soldering under-ribs

[smylee grouch]

Over the years I have soldered several under ribs to barrels and always made it work but it always seemed to take so long to get the heat up to soldering temp. This past January an another old guy was telling me to put a short section of hot copper rod in the bore when I do the soldering. How do others on this site do it aside from screws or rivuts.

[Hungry Horse]

I do this method to heat the barrel up when I’m pouring a nosecap on a forearm, and when soldering on a underrib.

 Hungry Horse

[smylee grouch]

Hi Hungry Horse, do you use copper or would a brass rod be OK for the job?

[45-110]

where would one find a 1/2" round long copper rod? i don't remember ever seeing one for sale.
kw

[smylee grouch]

Electrical contractor supply outlets sell copper ground rods but most I think are four feet long or so and might be pricey. This is why I'm wondering if a brass rod would be ok as I can find them in several sizes and lengths.

[FDR]

Ground rod for an electrical system would work.  Might have to cut it off.  Check your local welding shop for a brass rod.


Fred

[Metalshaper]

Colin Stolzer shows this method  for joining the 10, 4 and 2 bore barrel sets. he was using shorter sections for the heat sinks and moving them along as he progressed.
https://www.youtube.com/user/cstolzer338/videos    check through these videos he has on youtube and I'm sure you can find something helpful or interesting!!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[Gaeckle]

How do others on this site do it aside from screws or rivuts.

I tin the barrel, clean off any residue that dribbles off the flat (there is always some), then tin the rib. If there are any blobs of solder on the barrel/rib I use my scrapper (sawzall blade type) and smooth out the solder. I then clamp the two together with as many clamps possible and run a torch along the seam, you will know when the solder has melded together as little beads of solder squeeze out from the barrel/rib. It is then a simple matter of cleaning up.

[smylee grouch]

Thanks every one so far for your reply's, I have been doing it pretty much like Gaeckle does it but was thinking maybe there was a better way that won't take as long to heat up the barrel/rib to proper soldering temp. I use reg. plumbers solder for the barrel/rib joint but was wondering what every one else uses for that job.

[Curtis]

I've been using Swif solder paste for several years, works great.  Here is a link to a posting of the last one I did: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=47395.msg472668#msg472668

Any quality solder paste should work similarly well.

Curtis

[Dave B]

I use the copper rod to put my under rib on a English 20 bore barrel. Here is the link http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4863.msg45722#msg45722
I got the copper rod from a metal scrap place out here called Alaska Brass and Copper. It is now the only way I will ever do this kind of work. It was so much easier to get the barrel temp right for the soldering.

[eddillon]

Thanks every one so far for your reply's, I have been doing it pretty much like Gaeckle does it but was thinking maybe there was a better way that won't take as long to heat up the barrel/rib to proper soldering temp. I use reg. plumbers solder for the barrel/rib joint but was wondering what every one else uses for that job.

For sure this is the simplest way to get a clean joint.

[smylee grouch]

Thank you also Dave for that link. That copper slug seems to help in doing the job. I went to a couple of different places today to get copper rod but came up empty handed so I'm still wondering about using a brass rod.

[Hungry Horse]

Copper ground rods are not solid copper anymore. They are copper clad steel, and have been for years. I use a piece of plain old hot rolled steel rod. Heck it’s not like you’re going to be running it back and forth in the bore.

  Hungry Horse

[smylee grouch]

I am to the point of putting the rib on a 40 cal. half stock rifle and am thinking of using a 3/8" brass rod as I can't seem to locate a copper rod or slug.

[Dphariss]

where would one find a 1/2" round long copper rod? i don't remember ever seeing one for sale.
kw

https://alcobrametals.com/product/CR.375A
Different diameters and lengths available. Brass in various shapes and thicknesses etc and can cut any size sheet you might need. I have gotten 12x48 and 12x36 .040" cartridge alloy but I picked it up while coming back from Oregon.
Dan

[smylee grouch]

Thanks for that link Dan, this sounds like what I'm interested in and I will give them a call or e-mail. Thanks again.

[Scota4570]

I tin the barrel and rib with acid flux, steel wool and lead solder.  I work my way along several inches at a time.  Once everything is tinned I wash it well and coat it with liquid rosin.  I then assemble it all with wire and wedges, c-clamps, and a steel ramrod.  Once I am situated  I melt the solder, working my way down the length several inches at a time.  I use one propane torch in each hand.

I don't see how putting a hot rod down the bore would help anything.  I am not understanding the value of melting all of the solder at the same time.  The chances of movement would be much greater.  Most of the trouble with soldering is from over heating, not under heating. 

[rickw]

Have any of you guys used a low-temperature, silver-bearing solder like Silvabrite for soldering an under-rib?
Rick