Stock Moisture Content

[MKemper]

Do any of you meter the moisture content in your stock blanks prior to rough-in?  As many of you know, too much moisture can result in inlays, patchboxes, etc. popping when the rifle is subjected to "dry heat."  What are some opinions on "maximum moisture content" prior to rough-in?  This will probably cause some comments relative to kiln dried vs. air dried.  Do you think any of the 18th and early 19th century pieces were built using kiln dried lumber?  I bet not.  I have seen many originals with signs of major shrinkage.  It is always most notable where the buttstock molding meets the buttplate.  I have seen as much as a 1/4" offset.

[Mike Brooks]

I used to worry about it enough that I bought a moisture tester. I lay enough wood back these days that it's a couple years before I use it and the blanks are fully acclimated to my Iowan climate. I figure  1 year per inch of thickness for drying, then I use it. I don't worry about kiln drying or air drying, it's all good.

[George F.]

I am probably the slowest builder on the forum. I'll buy a blank, or blanks, and by the time I get around to doing anything with it, it will be awhile, sometimes a few years before I get into it. By then, It's dry enough.  ...Geo.

[David Rase]

I am probably the slowest builder on the forum.

George, If there were an award for the slowest builder on the forum, I would have to challange you for the title....   I don't know if I am the slowest builder but I bet I got more projects in mid build.
DMR

[t.caster]

I am probably the slowest builder on the forum. I'll buy a blank, or blanks, and by the time I get around to doing anything with it, it will be awhile, sometimes a few years before I get into it. By then, It's dry enough.  ...Geo.

Exactly. You can probably tell when you cut into it with a gouge. But I have yet to see one that is too moist after sitting around my basement for a couple years. You can't control the climatic conditions a rifle is subjected to after it leaves your workshop
I don't know how many originals I've looked at, where the inlays looked like they are just laying on top of the stock surface due to shrinkage over time. A good reason to seal the wood under all inlays.

[George F.]

Well Dave, I have a long rifle waiting for thimbles and a patchbox, carving and probably some wire. Then I have a Eister rifle waiting for a patchbox and  carving and a lock that needs re-inletting after I added a piece to the lock panel 'cause I thinned it down to much. Then I started a Bivins silver accented steel mounted rifle. I have 5 others with barrels inletted waiting for ideas as to what I want to do with them. I'm not trying to win the award, just pathetically looking at what I got started and haven't finished for one reason or another. But I have finished 2 in 6 months, which is really a record. I'm just tweeking a fowler, the one with that tiny chip in the butt at the toe(which I STILL haven't fixed yet). I really liked the way it turned out.  ... Geo.

[Acer Saccharum]

UH, I might be the slowest, I dunno. But I do know the wood will be seasoned by the time I'm done!

Acer

[Sam Everly]

 I started a half stock boys rifle for my nephew about 12 years ago . It was walnut, i got it about 2/3 finished and it has set ever since. It has opened a big gap around the lock and the tang . It did have some moisture in the wood but i never thought it would open up like it did . The barrel channel was cut for me and it has opened some but not like the other spots.       

[ironwolf]

  Once I receive a blank it starts sucking up this Florida air and will never be that dry again.   Even had a red maple pre carve warp like a dogs leg once.

  KW

[Michael]

Never had a problem with moisture content in any of my stocks. I only live about 25 miles from Wayne Dunlaps shop and he has kindly agreed to 'warehouse' all my stocks for me, all I have to do is drive over and pick out the one I need ( and pay for it) BIG GRIN!!!

Michael

[Don Getz]

The only guns I have unfinished are the ones I am working on right now.   You guys have talked about how it takes you
to build a rifle, well, you know how long it takes me to do a barn gun.   You probably think the first thing I do in shaping
the stock is to prune the limbs off.   Actually I am waiting on finish to dry on my latest one, had it laying out in the sun
yesterday.   John brought it in yesterday afternoon....big curve to the right in the forend.   Will have to lay it the other way today, hope that works.    If not, the barrel will straighten it....pretty thin.............Don

[northmn]

We had a bit of a discussion on this a while back.  About the dryest wood will go is 6-8%, which is what TOW advertises for its stock blanks.  There are references to old timers "attic" drying wood or putting it in the rafters in their shops.  As noted most original rifles etc were air dried and show shrikage.  About the best that my references state that air drying will achieve is about  11-12% Often closer to 14%.  Some of this also depends on where one lives as compared to ambient humidity.  Kiln drying is more stable and will help prevent shrinkage over time, period.  The one year to an inch is kind of a rule of thumb and really does not work that well as it can vary so much to location. The University of Missouri extension service indicated that for shed construction one could start using the lumber as soon as 60-90 days. Note the reference to rafter drying.  The old timers used that often to try to achieve a better blank.   One thing that helps to maintain a moisture level on a kiln dried blank is to have a hotbox that can help to remove any moisture gain.  Mine uses 3-100 watt bulbs.  I cut a tree in March and had the gun built by July or August using a hotbox method of drying.  It is still not showing any signs or problems.  Another point is that after a certain amount of air drying, the wood will stabilize to ambient huimidity such that 3 years or 10 years really doesn't matter.  I base these statements on readings and formal education concerning woods.

DP

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Wood stored in my basement shop stabilizes at between 7 - 8 %.  I doubt you'll get that in Southwestern Ontario or PA.  Even in this area of relatively dry climate, there is a difference between winter and summer.  And if your client is strong willed and a romantic, he'll go against your advise and put his new rifle over the fireplace, where the wood will shrink and inlays will become proud.  Ask me how I know this.

[B Shipman]

You're right Taylor. It's all about where it's built and where it's going.

There's the story about the completely handmade Williamsbug rifle, $20 grand, that was hung over the fireplace and a hot air duck, that dried so much more that the forestrock separated.And yes, the underlugs were slotted with room for expansion or shrinkage. Just not this much.

[northmn]

Mostly the problem with wood is that of expansion and contraction due to raises and decreases in moisture.  I have had chairs that break apart in season changes due to this.  Right now the dehumidifier is filling with ater, in the winter it hardly does.  When you look at the buttplate and inlay seperations on originals, how many times have they been stressed?  When they talk about air drying, they generally refer to the stack of lumber left out in a shed.  There is a system of drying using dehumidification instead of heat.  But once its built and used, unless put in a stabilized enviroment wood will contract and expand.  I had an unslotted underpinning lug break loose on a fowler which I blame on this. Some claim less problems in the dryer Western states with things like hardwood floors.  Starting with a very dry piece of wood permits inletting to be done (in theory)  such that in its contracted state the wood will not shrink away.

DP