Frizzen Spring Problem

[t.caster]

I've received a several new locks in the past with frizzen springs that weren't lined up close to the lock plate. (spring arm extension bent out away from the plate) I either replaced the spring, or sent the whole lock back to the maker to fix. They need to know this is a problem, afterall, and inspect all locks before sending them out.

After our last shoot I was cleaning my own lock (15 yrs old) and noticed the same problem had surfaced and it had been mis-aligned for some time without me noticing. The screw holding the spring was tight, but bottomed out in the blind threaded hole. The lock functioned perfectly as always, but severe wear to the frizzen cam occurred, as seen in picture.

Fortunately I had a spare spring so I swapped them and ground and polished the frizzen cam so it works fine again.

So check your lock, because this problem is easy to overlook, and always inspect new locks for this problem.

[Bob Roller]

I've received a several new locks in the past with frizzen springs that weren't lined up close to the lock plate. (spring arm extension bent out away from the plate) I either replaced the spring, or sent the whole lock back to the maker to fix. They need to know this is a problem, afterall, and inspect all locks before sending them out.

After our last shoot I was cleaning my own lock (15 yrs old) and noticed the same problem had surfaced and it had been mis-aligned for some time without me noticing. The screw holding the spring was tight, but bottomed out in the blind threaded hole. The lock functioned perfectly as always, but severe wear to the frizzen cam occurred, as seen in picture.

Fortunately I had a spare spring so I swapped them and ground and polished the frizzen cam so it works fine again.

So check your lock, because this problem is easy to overlook, and always inspect new locks for this problem.

One of mine made about 20 years ago came in with an altered frizzen spring that wouldn't allow the frizzen to cycle
all the way over. I corrected it and examined the mechanism which other than a cleaning which it got,it was still as new.
This lock was my version of the small Manton or Bailes that I sent to Germany for target pistols beginning in 1979.
This one had my USA logo and was made after 1989.
I also finished a job for a man in Wisconsin who sent me the plate with frizzen installed but NO frizzen spring or
holes drilled and a Chambers late Ketland frizzen spring along with a double throated cock.I made up a fast
mechanism and it looks good and works really well.I had wondered and thought of this for a long time and it
seems to be a good combination of parts from 3 different makers.

Bob Roller

[Bob Roller]

I forgot to mention that the "3 makers"lock was externally L&R Ashmore minus
their frizzen spring..

Bob Roller

[stubshaft]

I better go and check the my guns.  It is not an area that I normally pay attention to.

[Hungry Horse]

I think a couple of things must be mentioned if we are going to be fair to the manufacturer. The frizzen has most definitely been heated a bunch. There is a divot in the frizzen that I have not seen on any other Siler lock. And most likely the pan cover and pivot area were annealed an left soft. I have never seen one of these frizzens this soft. The spring does seem to be tilted away from the lockplate at the top. I have not seen this before either. I would suspect this was a Siler kit someone built, not a finished lock. The lower part of the frizzen  is too soft, and the spring pin hole appears to have been drill crooked.

  Hungry Horse

[Jim Chambers]

Yes, the frizzen spring should be closer to the lock plate so the frizzen foot makes more contact with the spring.  However, the only time I see wear like this is when the lock has been used without any lubrication between the frizzen foot and the spring.  You would not believe how many locks we get back in for "repair", and the only thing wrong with them is a complete lack of lubrication.  Please, please, please, locks like any other mechanical devices need lubrication to work properly.  I recommend a good quality oil for rotating parts and a quality grease for sliding parts.

[Bob Roller]

Yes, the frizzen spring should be closer to the lock plate so the frizzen foot makes more contact with the spring.  However, the only time I see wear like this is when the lock has been used without any lubrication between the frizzen foot and the spring.  You would not believe how many locks we get back in for "repair", and the only thing wrong with them is a complete lack of lubrication.  Please, please, please, locks like any other mechanical devices need lubrication to work properly.  I recommend a good quality oil for rotating parts and a quality grease for sliding parts.

Jim just nailed the cause of most lock troubles.On my locks I
recommend checking the two upper bridle screws once in a while
an a drop of light oil on the link that connects the mainspring to
the tumbler and another couple of drops between the tumbler and plate by
cocking the lock to add them.

Bob Roller

[t.caster]

I didn't mention who manufactured it, but I guess J C recognized it. It is a Deluxe Siler, btw, not a kit.
I have never had to re-heat treat this frizzen. The dimple, I always figured was from hardness testing at the factory. It seems the frizz. face is hard but the cam is not.
I always oil the frizzen pivot and spring before using, and often in the middle of a shoot, and after using it I clean & lubricate everything again.
It was my fault for not seeing it sooner and correcting it then.

I only posted this as a heads up for the rest of you to pay attention to the little things before it can cause damage.

[Eric Krewson]

I have 4 similar locks and checked them yesterday, all the feet were where they were supposed to be, I did notice I had neglected to properly lube the mainspring lug and the frizzen spring at the foot on some of them. Thanks for the heads up.

I had polished the frizzen foot and mainspring lug and tumbler to a mirror finish before I finished my builds to reduce friction.