Silver soldering question

[Stophel]

You can't have your parts fitting TOO well together.  If it is clamped or pressed together tightly, it simply squeezes the solder out (if the parts are touching, no solder can fit there), and the joint will fail.

[Dennis Glazener]

I have a .20 gauge bbl, made from the famous leaded steel.  I need to solder three under lugs onto it, and a sterling front sight.  The lugs need to be strong, the sight pretty.  All I have to heat the bugger with is a propane or mapp torch.

I have soft soldered tenons on several  "B" weight Rice barrel's. I used flux cored electrical solder from a roll my dad had from back in the late 60's or maybe even the late 50's! I used a Mapp torch and all have held fine for at least 5 years on the oldest.
Dennis

[sydney]

Hi--I use a lead free soldier as it has a low melting point
      Available at any plumbing supplier
      Fit parts to a close fit
      Clean both surfaces well
      Tin both parts
       Small amount of flux on parts
       Hold in place with a weight or wire in place
       Reheat until soldier melts
       Add small amount of soldier if necessary
       Clean
       This will give you a nice strong joint
       Hope this helps
          Sydney

[RobertS]

"famous 20 gauge barrel made of leaded steel"?  I hate to show my ignorance, but would that be an alloy of steel with a small amount of lead?

[Don Getz]

Robert.....you are correct.   Many barrels are made from 12L14 steel, which is a leaded steel.    A small amount of lead is
added to the steel in order to make it more machineable.  And, Sydney, you have the soldering method described quite
well, the way I do it, when necessary.   Years ago I made a simple soldering device to hold either an underlug or a front
sight in place, also has spring tension to push it down when the solder melts.    I took a piece of 1/2" x about 6" long,
bent both ends down (1/2") at 90 degrees.   I then filed one end to fit a round barrel, the other end has a slot to fit over
an underlug or sight.   After you have the sight or underlug tinned, you merely hold it in place by positioning this little fixture over the object, place a parallel clamp over it in the middle.  There is enough spring in any kind of steel to keep tension on the object, when the solder melts it is pushed down automatically.  You will also find that if it does not seem to
be located properly, you can re-heat it and merely roll it to one side or the other....................Don