Clay for pewter pour

[smallpatch]

Ok, it's been a long while since I've poured a pewter nose cap.
 In my past memories, I remember the difficulties of blocking all the small areas along the barrel channel and barrel lugs etc. I was wondering why one couldn't use modeling clay to block out some of these areas.
Any one tried it this way?

[stubshaft]

Great idea but, I don't think modeling clay will take the heat.

[KentSmith]

Tried and stubshaft is right, it doesn't take the heat.  Now you might try plumber's putty.

[Dave B]

Ditto on the modeling clay, melted right out. pewter went every where. I found that 0000 steel wool wadded up will block the cracks just fine. Never tried plumbers putty. Poured multiple end caps using the steel wool, works like a champ

[dogcatcher]

I think what you want is Deft clay, but I am not sure.

[elk killer]

Kids silly putty works well

[Dennis Glazener]

Ok, it's been a long while since I've poured a pewter nose cap.
 In my past memories, I remember the difficulties of blocking all the small areas along the barrel channel and barrel lugs etc. I was wondering why one couldn't use modeling clay to block out some of these areas.
Any one tried it this way?

Don't! Melts and pewter runs everywhere. I had the biggest mess you have ever seen! Play dough works well.
Dennis

[Tim Crosby]

 I use Sculpey III Oven-Bake Clay, I get it at Hobby Lobby but have seen it at other art stores to make dams and to seal up paper molds when pouring Pewter. It does not melt but bakes, at about 275, it will peal off easily, never had any trouble with it. It is the best way I have found to seal up cracks when pouring pewter.
 Scroll down through this, way down and you will see it being used to seal up the bottom of a paper mold.

    http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=35027.msg336410#msg336410


   Tim C.

[smylee grouch]

I have had some success with 100% cotton balls poked down into all the gaps.

[Pukka Bundook]

For some reason, I have had no bother at all just using paper wrapping where I wanted to pour.  (Just don't pour it down the barrel!)

R.

[Dewster]

So I poured my pewter nose cap differently and I think this method is easier and cleaner. First I purchased a package of silicone mold material. This can be purchased at almost any hobby store. It consists of two putties that are mixed together and polymerize into silicone rubber which can handle over 300 degrees. Before the nose cap is cut out a mold is made of the fore end. There is plenty of working time with this stuff and you get enough in the package for about 3 fore ends. I molded the material over the wood and formed a funnel at the end for the pour. I also molded it over the muzzle with about a half inch down the barrel to form a plug. The material forms so closely around the stock and barrel that dams are not really needed. Then the mold is removed and the fore end pattern is cut into the wood. I lightly brushed the wood and inner surface of the mold with talcum powder which is supposed to make the pewter flow. After replacing the mold on the rifle I wrapped a fine wire around the base of the mold to prevent leakage. Don’t wrap wire around the pattern is cut into the wood. It is unnecessary and will distort the mold ( don’t ask how I know this) . Then pour your melted pewter into the funnel formed in the top of the mold. The package of material is about 12-15 dollars.

[Dewster]

I have pictures of the process but I have no idea how to post them. I am a true Luddite !

[Mauser06]

Wow!  I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought clay was a good idea!


I wasn't nearly smart enough to ask before trying though.....


To top it off, I used black with a maple stock.


I poured it and for about 2 seconds thought I was a genius.  Looked great.



Then...it looked like a black and silver volcano.  The clay melted and actually fizzled and it, as well as moulten pewter spewed everywhere. The majority of which ran down my stock....


I felt like a moron.  Lol.   From such a high feeling of satisfaction to "my stock is ruined and I might need a fire extinguisher" in the matter of a second or 2. 


The stock did actually clean up fine...but it took some work.

[Scota4570]

Aluminum foil and masking tape.  You can make little wads of foil and push it into spots that might leak.  For the ram rod hole I use aluminum rod wrapped in tape to a snug fit.  I smoke the metal part with acetylene soot.  The main sleeve is made of several layers of heavy duty foil wrapped in tape.    Heat the barrel before you pour.  I have in infrared thermometer to gauge then the melt is hot enough.   

[David Rase]

I just sandwich a piece of white tag board between the barrel and the barrel channel,, wrap it back around the nose and then use a lot of masking tape for support and sealing.  Never had any problems.  Hot bolt down the barrel to preheat the barrel a bit and away you go.  Never heard of or used steel wool, clay, blah blah blah etc. etc. etc.  I must just be too much of a simpleton.

Sounds like you guys are removing the barrel, or I am reading this thread wrong.  I am on my first cup of coffee, but I drink decaf so I guess it doesn't matter, first cup or third. 
David

[Robby]

plumbers putty from the hardware store works fo me.
Robby

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

This is of no use to the op here, but I have a large lump of material used in saw mills for casting babbit bearings.  It is dark grey grease blended with asbestos.. It does not melt or weep, and such a small amount is used for the job.  A card stock mold and masking tape does most of the work.

[Scota4570]

Leave the barrel in place, you need the cast to fit he barrel. 

[Darkhorse]

I use a fire hardening clay I bought from the craft section at Wal Mart. Works great, no melting, and it doesn't harden in the air. I use it for any bedding work also as it keeps the epoxy out of all the little holes and crevices. It's been awhile but I use basically the same method as Herschel House in "Building a Kentucky Rifle"

[J Henry]

  Never did any pewter work.Does the metal get liquid enough to flow freely? just wondering if doing some "Lost Wax" would allow a more intricate item. How hot does the liquid pewter get?Would Polymer clay work.

[fjohnson]

tag board and masking tape has always worked for me and never had any leaks .  i always pour with the barrel in . 

[Pukka Bundook]

I should have said above that I pour with barrel in place. Never thought of any other way!

So why don't you blokes use paper wrapped around stock and barrel? It always works and no, it doesn't catch fire.

Pukka.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I use cereal box, or Brtistol board card stock....and masking tape.

[Darkhorse]

I use cereal box also.  If memory serves: After the slots are cut in the wood and the top rails are cut down the length of the cap, I go back and drill some small holes in the bottom of the grooves then turning the rifle over I countersink those holes a little. The grooves are also undercut where possible to help lock the pour in place. Then I take a pencil and really cover all those grooves and flats with graphite.
I heat the barrel end off the rifle and build a thin clay down just a little behind where the pour will end. All the while a bolt is heating on a burner. I take some clay and block off the front pin holes and anywhere else the pewter might flow into.
I put the barrel back in and pin the other 2 pin holes and add the tang screw. Then put the hot bolt in the bore and plug the vent with a toothpick. I put a piece of ramrod in the rr hole then build a dam around the RR and on the sides of the barrel flat. Then I take a cut piece of the cereal box long enough to reach from the end of the rifle  to about 4" below the pour line (cereal box is cheap) and wide enough to wrap about twice around the barrel.
What I want to see is zero light or gaps between the clay and cereal box. If I don't get that I just add some clay and mold it with my fingers until I get what I want. Then I wrap it tight with masking tape. Next I take some grocery bags and tape the outside of the rifle from the pour to the butt. I don't get a lot of pewter past my dams but I always get some.
I heat enough pewter in a ladle on a stove until a toothpick begins to char when placed in the pewter, then quickly pour it into the mold.

[Tim Ault]

I use cereal box, or Brtistol board card stock....and masking tape.

   Similar to what I used , masking tape and a cardboard toilet paper roll it was just that simple .