Author Topic: patching  (Read 10519 times)

ERH

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patching
« on: July 25, 2008, 11:45:48 PM »
Does anyone use cotton drill fabric for patching ? Do you know where I can get some? I am looking for some that is about 24 thousands thick for my chunk gun.

roundball

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Re: patching
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2008, 12:21:06 AM »
Not drill, but I just bought a yard of 'cotton duck' at a Joanne'' Fabric store...wanted .030", took my calipers, the thickest they had was .024", but after washing and drying it, it mic'd .029"-.030" from drawing up even tighter/thicker.
So you might think about that when buying yours...if .024" is your target, you might want to buy something like .019"-.020"

Daryl

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Re: patching
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2008, 12:23:24 AM »
I shop for patch material at the yard-goods stores, ERH.  They generally have a wide sellection of denims, linens and drill or pocket cotton.  I picked up some drill at the 'cloth' store a while back that was thinner than you mention, but was 100% cotton and a very tight, close weave with thin thread.  I usually pull some 'strands' form a cut edge and give them the lighter-test right in the store.  Other than casual questions as to why I was doing this, nothing further has come of this type of testing.  Most bolts of cloth have a label that tells of the contents of the bolt. I still test as I've found some labeled as 100% cotton to have some synthetic threads.  The synthetic threads usually make the cloth a bit harder, not as flexible or soft.

ironwolf

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Re: patching
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2008, 01:10:31 AM »
  Yes, and there's no telling what kind of nightmarish residues those synthetics leave in ones barrel either ???

  Kev

Daryl

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Re: patching
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2008, 03:41:14 AM »
Kev- that depends if the synthetics are melting or not. Taylor once picked up some material that was quite stiff, even after washing and wetting with LHV. The stiffness was interesting, so after testing with .040" balls in my .40, i tried to burn it. It definitely has synthetic material in it, although Taylor said it was sold as 100% cotton.  The melting and black smoke was very noticable.  Even though, it was amazingly accurate and shot patches were reusable - no burning or melting.  The material was the first .019" denim I used with the tight, .400" balls, however I find real 100% cotton in .020" thickness shoots the same, loads identically, quite easily, actually and gives me peace of mind as well.

Offline longcruise

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Re: patching
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2008, 12:41:00 AM »
Quote
Does anyone use cotton drill fabric for patching ? Do you know where I can get some? I am looking for some that is about 24 thousands thick for my chunk gun.

Some of the larger art stores sell bulk art canvas off the roll and unsized.  I buy it at a place in Denver called Meiningers.  The heavier stuff seemed to mic at .022 after washing and drying.  I think it was sold as 12oz.

Some of the hobby stores such as Michaels and Hobby Lobby also had art canvas in bulk but it was way inferior to the stuff at Meiningers.
Mike Lee

ERH

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Re: patching
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2008, 03:37:58 AM »
Thanks for the help I will look around.

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: patching
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2008, 04:32:42 PM »
In addition to the miced thickness, check the thread count on the material. This will tell you alot about its suitability as a patch material. The higher the thread count...to a point.. the better the fabric will stand up to the rigors of loading and shooting and fil and "grab" the rifling. IN general the higher the thread count the better.

Thats the problem with pilowticking these days. it is usually cheap and has low thread count so it "squashes more between ball and barrel and loses much of its intended effect.
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Daryl

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Re: patching
« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2008, 04:53:44 PM »
Tim has a good point. The low thread count usually spread when seating the ball into the muzzle, which promotes gas cutting. The higher thread counts actually allow a slightly thinner cloth to be used.  I've found a few that worked, drill, jean pocket material, that sort of stuff, but never buy enough to shoot a long time and when I go back to the yard goods store, it's out of stock.  This is why I use .020" or .022" denim most of the time. It's easy to find, holds up great and works with about all ball sizes, .010" to .005" under bore size in normal .010" or .012" deep rifling. 
: Taylor and I went out testing yesterday, shooting off some blocks of wood. I used a short 'round' of spruce firewood with a rabbit ear bag (short ears) underneath the forend while Taylor used a bunch of 2x6 boards with a bag of sand to get the right height.  After all the shooting was over, we went out and picked up patches to check them.  There were all reusable, as normal - no cutting, or scorching.  He was using a .495" ball in his deep grooved Rice .50, while I used .395" as well as .400" balls in my .40 Goodoien barrel.  We were using the same patch material and both started off using LHV lube.  Taylor continued to use that lube, while I finished off testing spit.

ironwolf

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Re: patching
« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2008, 06:00:42 PM »
  Good points, Daryl.  I hadn't thought about the lube actually 'fireproofing' the patch. 
  What differences do you find  with the .395 opposed to the .400 ball sizes in the Goodoien barrel?  I have a gun in the works for my wife with that barrel.  Courtesy of Mr. Stith.  Should be shipped next week, I can hardly wait.

 Kevin

Daryl

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Re: patching
« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2008, 12:12:40 AM »
I really like the narrow lands, with wide grooves.  Loading is barely different with the same patch, a .020" to .022" denim. Accuracy wise, when first tested a year ago last spring, the .400" ball was  more accurate by about 1/4" at 50 yards, bench shooting.  My bench accuracy load is the .400 ball and .020" denim patch, LV lubed and 65gr. 3F GOEX.  That barrel has a 48" twist.

Offline longcruise

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Re: patching
« Reply #11 on: July 28, 2008, 06:14:28 PM »
Tim, how do you find the thread count?  I've looked at the labels of varoious ticking, etc and never could figure out the thread count.
Mike Lee

Offline Dphariss

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Re: patching
« Reply #12 on: July 29, 2008, 07:46:00 PM »
Tim, how do you find the thread count?  I've looked at the labels of varoious ticking, etc and never could figure out the thread count.
Ticking is meant to contain feathers in pillows etc and is usually pretty tight.
The only way to do this is by eyeball since thread counts are not used much in modern labeling.
Dan
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William Worth

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Re: patching
« Reply #13 on: July 29, 2008, 09:38:17 PM »
I am told, ticking has a Mil-Spec standard for containing the little prickly pin feathers.

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: patching
« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2008, 05:05:51 AM »
Pillow ticking used to have a Mil-spec standard, but it is really not used for feather pillows anymore than any other material so the standard is no longer being met. I don't know what the spec was for thread count on pillow ticking but it has dropped considerably...makes the cloth cheaper.  All pillow ticking is NOT pillow ticking. Just be cause they call it that and print blue stripes on it does not mean it meets the spec..

In Joannes they have the thread count on the label on the unbleached cotton canvas/drill bolts. it is on a sticker on the end of the bolt.  Don't expect to find that kind of information at wALLYWORLD, quality is not their driving issue.

If you compare two pieces of fabric side by side you can see the thread count. 

Course if you want really hign class patches you can buy some 1500 thread count egyptian cotton bed sheets.....course you might have to sell your gun to afford them. :o :o :o
De Oppresso Liber
Marietta, GA

Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it to others. – William Allen White

Learning is not compulsory...........neither is survival! - W. Edwards Deming

ironwolf

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Re: patching
« Reply #15 on: July 30, 2008, 11:46:59 AM »
   The problem with a high thread count is those materials are very thin. 
Here's the deal, if your patches aren't burning or blowing out your thread count is ok.  Thickness is much more important than thread count provided your not experiencing burnout.

  KW

Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: patching
« Reply #16 on: July 30, 2008, 04:44:54 PM »
Pillow ticking used to have a Mil-spec standard, but it is really not used for feather pillows anymore than any other material so the standard is no longer being met. I don't know what the spec was for thread count on pillow ticking but it has dropped considerably...makes the cloth cheaper.  All pillow ticking is NOT pillow ticking. Just be cause they call it that and print blue stripes on it does not mean it meets the spec..

In Joannes they have the thread count on the label on the unbleached cotton canvas/drill bolts. it is on a sticker on the end of the bolt.  Don't expect to find that kind of information at wALLYWORLD, quality is not their driving issue.

If you compare two pieces of fabric side by side you can see the thread count. 

Course if you want really hign class patches you can buy some 1500 thread count egyptian cotton bed sheets.....course you might have to sell your gun to afford them. :o :o :o
Good info - My test for thread count is to take a strip of it outside stretch it out 'tween' hands hold it up to the bright sun and if you can see light thru it it is toooo
loose a thread count!!  My supply of 35 yds of olde tyme floral pillow ticking of 35 yds is slowly going down.  That was/is the good old stuff that I am told is no longer mfg.  Wallyworld carries the floral print stuff but that mikes .008 I do suppose you could double it!!  Good ol Wade Reynolds at Carolina Calicos carries what is called 'Carhardt' which is darn close and plenty tight.  I use that frequently also. The olde tyme floral mikes .015 or thereabouts and the carhardt bout the same; but feels a tad 'cushier' :)

Daryl

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Re: patching
« Reply #17 on: July 30, 2008, 04:53:38 PM »
Roger- I wear Carhardt trousers. They run about .038" single thickness, but are doubled in the knees and thighs areas. Should be about right ;)

William Worth

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Re: patching
« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2008, 03:31:07 AM »
Look for the ticking by James Thompson Co., it seems to be pretty good stuff.
But I'll bet denim is a more stable weave.  I'm going to try some when my ticking stockpile has diminished somewhat.

Offline satwel

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Re: patching
« Reply #19 on: August 06, 2008, 09:37:25 PM »
After a lot of experimentation with commercial pre-cut patches, I've settled on 40lb drill cloth from Joanne Fabrics. Wash it twice to remove the sizing and throw it in the dryer to shrink and soften. Then I cut it into strips. I don't have a micrometer but using calipers, I estimate the tickness at 0.20". Works equally well in my .45, .50 and .54 flintlocks using spit as a lube. Recovered patches exhibit no signs of burn through, just a faint scorched ring on one side. Could be reused. Never tried the burn test to check for the purity of cotton. Gives me the best reproducibilty at the least cost plus it's easy to find.

Offline mdtnhunter

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Re: patching
« Reply #20 on: September 20, 2008, 07:13:14 PM »
I like well washed pillow ticking with a beeswax/tallow lube,