Making my own single triggers?

[Tennessee.45]

I’m wanting to make my own single triggers, how thick of metal do I need to use and how is it done, preferably without use of a forge.

[Pete G.]

I use 1/8" x 1-1/2" material. Hold it in a vise and heat with a propane torch and hammer it out. Repeat until you get the shape you need.

[Sawfiler]

In a class I took the instructor had me use 3/16 x 2 flatbar and I was able to cold peen a trigger without even using a torch. Using a torch to get it hot would probably have been easier as the material starts to work harden it doesn't flow as easy.

Cut a section of the flatbar about 4"-6" long and clamp it in your vice with 1/2" or so of the material sticking out of the top jaw. Use a ball peen to spread the metal down and outward to form the sole of the trigger. Once you get the material upset and spread out enough for this you can cut away the remaining flatbar that is not needed and the file to final shape. I think I beat on this one for about 20 minutes before I had upset the metal enough for what I needed. I did use a propane torch to curl the tip. Heat it red hot and tap slowly to get the curl. Still some filing left to do in this photo.


 

[rich pierce]

Can get it done with stock 0.100 thick and this eliminates filing the blade or tab or arm or whatever it’s called.

[smylee grouch]

I have made several with out heat, just go slow so you don't crack the metal. I would think the vise would act as a heat sink and you would lose most of your heat to it before you start to hammer out the trigger. Just a thought.

[mark esterly]

cold rolled flat stock cold forged in the vise.   if a klutz like me can do it........

[Hungry Horse]

I agree with those that cold forge their triggers. I use 1/8”X1” hot rolled mild steel. Its really easy. Use many light taps with a medium sized ball pene hammer.
 Remember the higher you pin the trigger flag the longer the travel, and the lighter the trigger pull. You can make a single trigger scary light if you overdo this.

  Hungry Horse

[Eric Krewson]

I made a bunch of them, the first were only for practice.

Here are some of my practice pieces, while I was getting the feel for it.



I liked this one so I used it.

[L. Akers]

Over the last 50 years I have made a lot of single triggers.  I use .070-.080 thick cold rolled flat stock and cold forge the shoe by tapping with a ball-peen hammer.  I make barrel keys the same way.

[Tennessee.45]

Do y’all pin the trigger in the stock or the trigger plate?

[Sawfiler]

Pin it in the stock. This allows you to pin it higher for a lighter trigger pull like Hungry Horse mentioned.

[Elnathan]

I've used 1/4" stock from the hardware store, a propane torch for heat, and a chunk of steel in a vice to act as a stake anvil.

[flehto]

The cold forged trigger shown below is made from .100 sheet steel and the curl is heated to red and then formed around a 3/8 dia rod.

A contour is filed on the .100 thick steel plate and then a 3/8 dia hardened rod is hit w/ a hammer to cold forge the trigger shoe to a width of about 5/16"-3/8" wide. The curl is then done as described above.......Fred

[elkhorne]

Any suggestions on where to get the .100 steel stock and what type of steel to ask for. I have used the 1/8" in cold rolled steel sold in the big box stores but there may be a better steel to use. Problem with the 1/8" is you have to file the plate thinner and keep it flat while thinning. Thanks.
elkhorne

[L. Akers]

Any suggestions on where to get the .100 steel stock and what type of steel to ask for.
elkhorne

McMaster-Carr.  Look for low carbon sheets.  They have .075, .090, .120 available.

[Hungry Horse]

I have no idea what some of you are talking about on this very elementary trigger project. 1/8” X1” hot rolled strap from the welding shop is incredibly easy to form cold. It should have no problem with any sized trigger plate thickness you can conjure up, because it simply fits through a slot in the plate, and pins through the stock. This really is not rocket science, I literally made my first basic trigger with stuff from the scrap bin.
 Before you buy a bunch of special stuff, try making one from junk for practice. It about an hour project with a beer break.

 Hungry Horse

[Eric Krewson]

I bought my trigger material from the angle iron and such hardware section at Lowe's. My stock was a little thick so I had to do some filing after I formed the shoe. I think I used 1/8" stock which much too thick.

[Hungry Horse]

1/8” material is about what all single trigger flags are on modern guns with a single trigger, so I’m puzzled by the part about having to file it down.

 Hungry Horse

[SingleMalt]

I've used 1/8" 1018 flat stock, both cold peened and using a torch.  Both ways work well.  I like to thin the blade a bit, to about 3/32".

[rich pierce]

1/8” material is about what all single trigger flags are on modern guns with a single trigger, so I’m puzzled by the part about having to file it down.

 Hungry Horse

On most original Pennsylvania longrifles the blades of single triggers are thinner than 1/8”, some closer to 0.080.

[Eric Krewson]

Yep, too thick so I filed it down.

[flehto]

The sheet of press stock is .100 X 6" X 36" long  and I found it lying in the street where I worked,. It has been used for  dozens of cold forged triggers and the mating trigger plates. The trigger plates are filed to .06 thick except in the front where the tang screw threads are, .....Fred

[Davemuzz]

Does anyone then address the "how to" of harding the metal once the fit is complete?

[flehto]

I don't harden the trigger or trigger plate. A  small piece of hardened hi speed steel is soldered into the trigger plate  at the location of sear bar contact....hi temp solver solder is used at 1350 degrees which doesn't affect the hardness of the hi speed steel......Fred 

[rich pierce]

Does anyone then address the "how to" of harding the metal once the fit is complete?

I don’t see evidence of hardening of single triggers on most originals I’ve examined but case hardening is a good idea.