File happy on bolster

[Bob Mac]

I am working on a rebuild of my first rifle. I tried to file the bolster to give the lock a flare at the back end. I went a little overboard and now the bolster is a good 1/16th or better smaller than when it started. I didn't realize until I inlet the lock and the mainspring broke through into the ramrod hole. Is there some way to build up the bolster or should I buy a new pan from Jim Chambers. It's A Siler lock. I'm concerned if I let it as is, it may throw the dimension of the wrist off. I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks,
Bob

[jerrywh]

How thick is it at the front and back???

[Bob Mac]

Front of bolster is about 3/32 and rear is 1/8th not counting lock plate. Lock plate is almost 3/16.

[T*O*F]

Is there some way to build up the bolster

Solder a piece of brass or steel on it and refile to correct dimensions.

[Bob Mac]

Thanks Dave. I was considering that. Wasn't sure if brass would be suitable. Might making an interesting contrast.
Bob

[Dphariss]

If you soft solder the piece on it will be impossible to harden the lockplate. Brazing is about the only thing that will stand casehardening.
I would have replaced the lock plate and pan.

Dan

[Acer Saccharum]

Brazing is about the only thing that will stand casehardening.

While this is true, few folks harden their lockplates.

Might be an interesting poll, but for another thread.

You could also screw a shim onto the bolster, but you don't have a lot of real estate.

[T*O*F]

Brazing is about the only thing that will stand casehardening.

While this is true, few folks harden their lockplates.

It is also true in this case that the pan/bolster is removable, so anything soldered to it would be independent of any operations performed on the lock plate.

[Bob Mac]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll probably solder a piece on like suggested. Not sure if I'll use steel or brass. Is the silver solder I saw at Tractor Supply sufficient. I think it had a temp of around 840 degrees. Or would regular solder like I use on copper pipes be enough to hold?
Bob

[J.D.]

Brazing is about the only thing that will stand casehardening.

While this is true, few folks harden their lockplates.

It is also true in this case that the pan/bolster is removable, so anything soldered to it would be independent of any operations performed on the lock plate.

Very true, but a hardened pan is much easier to keep clean, not to mention corrosion resistance.

Maybe a soft soldered shim, removed for hardening, then resoldered?

Or, a steel shim copper brazed in place, though brass brazing would probably hold as well if the hardening temp is watch closely.

Just kinda think'n...typ'n out loud, so to speak...type.

[jerrywh]

If you don't have the means to braze a piece on or use copper then soft solder on the shim after you case harden the lockplate.   There is no such thing as silver solder that melts at 840° . The copper pipe solder melts about 430°

[David Price]

A new pan is cheep, and besides Jim needs the money!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Don Getz]

So far no one has mentioned the frizzen.    How are you going to handle that?   I know you didn't "file" the inside edge
off, probably had to grind it off......how are you going to replace this to make it fit up to the barrel?     Don

[Leprechaun]

Good greif, a new pan in $9. How long does one spend fartin' around with mickey mouse repairs to save $9?.

[flehto]

Had a similar problem in flaring out the lock and side panels using a straight bbl. Have some .004 thick high temp silver solder and used it to attach a 1/16" steel shim  over the entire bolster thereby making the pan non-detachable. The bbl facing edge of the frizzen was welded while the frizzen face was kept cool. Worked out fine  30 yrs ago and the LR is presently my squirrel rifle......Fred

[Bob Mac]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm still considering a new pan. Do you know if the pan is drilled and tapped where necessary? Don, I screwed up the bolster while I had the lock apart. When I put the lock back together and saw the difference from edge of frizzen to bolster, the lightbulb went off and I realized I screwed up.

[J. Talbert]

Years ago when still using straight barrels, I used a couple of the methods mentioned here to flare the lock panels and widen the wrist.
Twice I soldered shims to the bolster and had a friend build out the edge of the frizzen with a tig welder and reshaped it to match the bolster.  (Of course it had to be annealed and re-hardened). 
With a lock that had a slightly thicker bolster to start, I simply filed a taper on the bolster and ground the edge of the frizzen to match. 
Both methods worked "OK",  but neither are necessary if you just start with a swamped barrel.  That's the ticket!

PS.  Back then I had never even heard of case hardening a lock.  I'm not arguing that case hardening is definitely a better way to go, but I'm still shooting my first rifle with the original 30 year old lock.

Jeff

[George F.]

I wasn't going to chime in on this one, but then. I guess I have something to contribute. On my second gun I built,I used a swamped barrel(my first), and I wanted to put cast off in it.Not knowing where I should start it, I started at the breech...big mistake. After I got the lock inletted, the tail was so buried in the wrist I didn't know what to do. I didn't know any other builders I could consult, there were no forums, internet ,etc,etc. I planed the lock panel off, glued on a replacement. I silver solder a piece of mild steel on the bolster and pan. After the lock was re-inletted, I noticed the frizzen was an 1/8" away from the barrel. When I was at Dixon's one weekend they had a few  lock parts on the wall in the back of the store. I picked one that looked wider than the Siler. Re-shaped the frizzen  face to match the slope of the Siler. Got the frizzen to fit the pan just fine, as well as the part that fits on the pan for the pivot screw. Filed the edge to fit up against the barrel. Re-hardened it. No problems. I did this to another lock, but instead of silver soldering I taped and screwed a piece of brass on, which does stand out, but works fine. So you can fix this problem, just don't quit.   Geo.

[Leprechaun]

On the second gun I built (and last with a straight barrel), I wanted the 'effect' of a tapered/swamped barrel in the wrist area but, considering the hassles with the frizzen, I chose to make a tapered wedge (from a hack saw blade I thinkl) and soldered it to the barrel. I then drilled and installed the liner and the shoulder of the liner in the countersink gave added protection against the shim coming loose. It worked, but only makes up for a minor advantage of a swamped barrel.