Slowly getting there

[Mike Lyons]

Being my second rifle,  the process of putting it together  is going good.  The attention to detail is slowing the entire project down to a halt at times.  I’ll be pinning thimbles and the trigger guard tomorrow and hopefully shaping some of the stock mid week. Thanks to all of you who give me advice both intentionally and unintentionally and to the ALR forum.  I’m hoping to use this one for deer season.

[PPatch]

"The attention to detail is slowing the entire project down to a halt at times."

But slow is progress still. Slow but sure, and the result will be a better looking gun all around. Toward that end do what it takes.

dave

[Mike Brooks]

I find when I'm working with architectural styles I'm familiar with things go much faster. New schools or styles tend to slow me down some, too much thinkin'.

[n stephenson]

At least you are making progress! Looks like someone got a little "tight" with a c- clamp in front of the gaurd  ). You can probably steam most of that back up. Ask me how I know .  Looks like the work you have done , is coming along well.  Nate

[Mike Lyons]

I find when I'm working with architectural styles I'm familiar with things go much faster. New schools or styles tend to slow me down some, too much thinkin'.

That's my problem  I'm not familiar with any of them.

[Parnell]

I'm interested in seeing what you are working on, being another "new guy".  What was your first project...this one?

Looking forward to watching how it goes for you.

[Mike Lyons]

I'm interested in seeing what you are working on, being another "new guy".  What was your first project...this one?

Looking forward to watching how it goes for you.

My first rifle was a TVM Early Lancaster Kit.  I didn't follow a particular rifle.  I didn't know enough to even know what I was looking at.  I learned a ton from the first build.   I've had the chance to handle a MBS, TOTW and a TVM kit.  All are really nice but each have their own characteristics.  This current rifle is a MBS Rupp kit.  I'm trying to build a replica of a H. Rupp rifle from the KRA disk. Here's my first rifle.   

[Craig Wilcox]

Nein, Nein, Nein!!  Ach, dummkopf - der frammistator to be attached to the steam pipe!


Actually, you are moving along quite handsomely, but had to take the opportunity while it was there.

As we discussed, we are both working on the same kit, and I am very depressed that I can't keep up with you right now.  I did work at my bench today, for 15 min!  Made a fly swatter!!

I can highly recommend Cleveland VA to your clients.

[Parnell]

Wow, very nice!  That looks great.  How much of that project did you inlet/carve yourself..any starting advice?  What was your biggest challenges overall?

Hope you don't mind the questions. 

Thanks,

Stephen Parnell

[Mike Lyons]

It was a pre carve kit.  I did the carving and inlet all the trinkets.  It's hard to give random advice because every single thing you do with the rifle could be a tutorial and there's a right and wrong way of doing it.  Starting advice would be to take your time.  Patience is a must.  Read as much as you can about building a rifle. Set the Mike Brooks Tutorial as a favorite and follow it.  Ask questions when you can't find the answer.  Use sharp tools.  Buy a magnification visor and use it.  Remember that inletting gives false readings.  If you're going down with a piece, even if you get inletting black on the edges, concentrate on scrapping the bottom rather than the edges.  You're not looking to have no inletting compound anywhere, you are looking to have as close as possible a solid mark everywhere.  Hope that makes sense.  I would recommend a kit as a first rifle.  The three pre carves that I have had the chance to look at are at different levels of completeness.  Do your research and decide what kit you want.  I've had the opportunity to review a TMV, TOTW and a MBS kit.  I'd be happy to tell you the good and bad of each.  It sounds like Kibler kits are the best for the money.  Your first kit is basically going to be a reference for your next build.  My biggest challenge and it shows on my first kit was the lock panel.  My second build is also a kit but, it requires a ton of work and has a whole different set of challenges.  Lock panels have not been much of a problem but  I've been tinkering with the wrist for several days.  the site dovetails were cut in on my first kit.  They are not on this one.  I've had three barrel lugs to practice on but I'm still anxious about dovetailing the sites on this current build.   

[Stoner creek]

Your lock placement looks great! Not too high not too low in the wrist. I see a little gap between the breech plug and the breech plug mortise. If you don’t bed that with something it’s possible that the recoil from firing a shot could knock a chip of wood out behind the end of the tang. Rock on brother!

[Kingsburyarms]

Following along in the background - Great job -

[Martin S.]

First, my experience is only in making CVA "kit" in college.

Soon, I am going to get a Kibler kit, and I am going to take a class to make a fowler from a board.

So, I am complete newbie at gun making.

However, I am a woodworker, and AfghanVet, your work is awesome!

Are you going to CLA?  I would encourage you to go if you can, you will get a chance to look at lots of cool rifles, and other cool accoutrements.

I enjoy reading your threads, thanks for posting.

[Mike Lyons]

Thank you for the compliment but I’m learning just like all the new folks. That first rifle has a lot of errors.  Luckily the pretty wood distracts. I did taxidermy for a while and it helped with the attention to detail and patience aspect.   I’ll be at the CLA show Friday.   I’ll be bringing a Vietnam Vet buddy with me.    We are both excited and unfit for public but he’s a little worse than me in crowds.  I’m heading back over to the Martini thread with another piece of beautiful wood!!!  Any relation? Haha

Mike

[Martin S.]

Ha!

No relation, but I wish.

[Mike Lyons]

Very slow going!! A ton of work and very little progress. 

[Bigmon]

What year is that D35??
Now yer in to something I know a little about.

[Mike Lyons]

The years are ticking by fast but I think I bought it in 2014.  It’s an HD35.  I bought it more as a collectors piece and don’t play it much.  I have a beater fender acoustic that I pick most evenings.  My 14 year old plays the bass and my 3 year old pounds on the drums.  I married into an eastern KY family that has a lot of musical talent.  I live around a lot of big named  bluegrass and country music icians so It was just natural that I learn to play. 

[smallpatch]

Hard to tell, but it looks like you need to reduce the width of the butt.  Maybe a close up of that area.

[Mike Lyons]

Hard to tell, but it looks like you need to reduce the width of the butt.  Maybe a close up of that area.

. Thanks for the advice.  I’m not sure what angle you need.  Here’s a few.

[bama]

Afghanvet, if you get a chance you and your buddy stop by my table at the CLA show, I would love to meet you both and thank you for your service in person. You are heading in the right direction with your building, just keep looking and learning and enjoy the trip.

[Mike Brooks]

Bring that gun to the CLA, you'll find people there that would be glad to help you get that gun right.

[smallpatch]

I guess it's the buttplate itself.  Really narrow on the comb return.  Here's one of Al Martin's, so you can see what I mean.

I hope this helps.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I'd like to make a suggestion, if I may.

Looking at the comb line, from the heel of the butt plate to the wrist, notice that the stock has a hump from the end of the plate return toward the wrist.  Envision this as a continuous plane following the curve of the butt plate return forward.  This will do a number of things:  it will make the curve of the comb more pleasing, it will thicken the comb taking away the sharp edges, and it will help prevent cheek slap.  The closer that you can make the comb line parallel to the bore, the less likely you are to have a cheek cracker.  You will still be able to incorporate a pleasing Roman nose comb while eliminating some of the negative effects.

[Mike Lyons]

Thank you guys for the info.  I haven't filed on the top of the comb yet and I appreciate all the advice and pictures.  I noticed that area on the buttplate that butts up to the wood is flared at the top.  My KRA photos show that and Mr. Martin's rifles show it well.  That is a bear to get perfect and I haven't been able to get it yet.  You cant just run a file down the buttplate.  It's almost like you need to file the wood carefully until it is even with the flare.  My LOP is going to make this thing a 44" pistol before I'm done.   I'll bring it to the show.

Mike Lyons