Author Topic: Last word on patch lube (Read 17978 times)

bones92 · « **Reply #50 on:** September 26, 2018, 04:11:53 PM »

Horse,

I get what you're saying... but for relatively new members like me, I find it educational to read these threads. Yes, I have read the whole thing. For me, it is enlightening to see all the variations of patch lube that work for various members here. For someone like me, with very little muzzleloading background, I would have assumed that there are only certain lubes that work, but clearly there are lots of variations that work for a variety of situations.

FWIW, I would love to use deer and bear tallow... but I have access to neither.

Nevertheless, you have inspired me to finally try that old bottle of Neatsfoot oil... I hope it's still good, though... it has been stored in a non-climate-controlled storage, which gets really hot in summertime. It looks fine... not cloudy or congealed.

rfd · « **Reply #51 on:** September 26, 2018, 04:26:45 PM »

bones, get beef and mutton tallow online ... https://grasslandbeef.com/osearch?q=tallow

rollingb · « **Reply #52 on:** September 26, 2018, 06:10:18 PM »

Quote from: rfd on September 26, 2018, 04:26:45 PM

bones, get beef and mutton tallow online ... https://grasslandbeef.com/osearch?q=tallow

I bought 14 lbs. of sheep tallow from them several months ago because DGW was out of it and didn't know when they'd get more in,.... I had to buy that much because of Grasslandbeef's $75.00 "minimum order" policy.

At least I won't have to re-order any more for a looooooooong time.

stikshooter · « **Reply #53 on:** September 26, 2018, 07:54:03 PM »

Order from grasslands as a sample (one time)and you will just pay shipping ,you have to ask

rollingb · « **Reply #54 on:** September 26, 2018, 08:43:00 PM »

Quote from: stikshooter on September 26, 2018, 07:54:03 PM

Order from grasslands as a sample (one time)and you will just pay shipping ,you have to ask

I ordered 7 of the 2lb. tubs of sheep tallow from them and didn't see any mention of samples,.... how much do they send out as a "sample"?

JohnnyFM · « **Reply #55 on:** September 26, 2018, 11:20:52 PM »

Yes grassland beef aka US Wellness Meats is my go-to source. Try the lamb tallow as well. Another suggestion in lieu of $75 worth of tallow, unless of course you're shootin' a bevy of 6-pounders, I fill out my order with a couple of steaks or lamb chops. You'll have $75 worth afore ya even know it!

Of course my favorite natural lube is bear oil but mink oil tallow from Track works real good for hunting. I also like original Lehigh Valley Lube and a 10-1 mix of water-Ballistol. Come to think of it, I remember Birchwood Casey's black powder solvent worked good too as a range lube.
Part of the fun of muzzleloaders besides the shootin' is trying different things for yourself. It's in the spirit of that rugged individualism thing. Ya can get some real good advice on this board, I know I have, but experiment and experience for yourself as well. Good stuff!
Best regards

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #56 on:** September 28, 2018, 05:13:49 PM »

A friend generously gave me a nice supply of bear oil, so I am going to give that a try on my next trip to the range.

I also obtained a supply of "synthetic sperm whale oil", which I have chosen to use on a few rifles as a lubricant. Will let folks know how both of the oils work out.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #57 on:** September 29, 2018, 09:05:21 PM »

https://www.corganic.com/products/beef-tallow?variant=32822243657&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86f9uObg3QIVFMRkCh3OzACpEAQYASABEgIWTfD_BwE

Cheaper

JBJ · « **Reply #58 on:** September 29, 2018, 09:14:43 PM »

14 ounces (($17.99 + $14.95 shipping) = ~$33 per 14 oz. jar = WOW! It is cheaper but ----

J.B.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #59 on:** September 29, 2018, 10:21:13 PM »

Come on all you have to do is, kill a fat deer, parboil the ribs ( and then throw them on the Bbq) let the water from the boiling get cold, and skim the white grease off the top of the water. BBD’d ribs, and FREE patch lube.

Hungry Horse

Lead ball 54 · « **Reply #60 on:** October 03, 2018, 08:53:13 PM »

I may have missed any talk about break free as a patch lube so I'll ask is it okay to use as I have a good supply thanks

Frank · « **Reply #61 on:** October 03, 2018, 10:28:08 PM »

Quote from: Lead ball 54 on October 03, 2018, 08:53:13 PM

I may have missed any talk about break free as a patch lube so I'll ask is it okay to use as I have a good supply thanks

Nope.

Lead ball 54 · « **Reply #62 on:** October 03, 2018, 10:46:30 PM »

Okay could you please explain why? Thanks

Frank · « **Reply #63 on:** October 04, 2018, 02:08:06 AM »

It's a petroleum product.

Daryl · « **Reply #64 on:** October 04, 2018, 03:56:44 AM »

Seems to me, Break Free CLP was developed to keep the modern select fire rifles working in Viet Nam - thus - I am sure, it is a synthetic and being either a synthetic or a petroleum product,

CLP oil will not nicely soften BP fouling. To soften the fouling which allows the new patched ball to be shoved down easily without wiping & without loss of accuracy, the lube must mix with and

become one with the fouling. Animal oils like Mink Oil and Neetsfoot oil do mix with and soften the fouling allowing repeat shooting ad-nausium before cleaning or wet wiping is necessary. This also

takes a good smoothly rounded muzzle crown (by paper or cloth or file) and nice tight ball and patch combination to work well.

Some people want to wipe between shots and use combinations that are easily thumb started and loaded in clean barrels - whatever you want.

I will note, that if thumb started balls (V-loose combinations) were as accurate as tight combinations, ALL match shooters would be using such easily loaded combinations - they don't and for a

very good reason - they need accuracy to win. In fact, many of them use oversized balls (larger than the groove diameter) and .022" patches as well.

If accuracy is not a prime requisite for you, then use whatever you desire for lube - you are in control.

rfd · « **Reply #65 on:** October 04, 2018, 03:43:32 PM »

i spoke with DGW yesterday and they will be offering mutton tallow again, shortly.

Sharpsman · « **Reply #66 on:** November 01, 2018, 06:49:26 PM »

Canola oil is cheap....and works!

Untitled by Sharps Man, on Flickr

45-110 · « **Reply #67 on:** November 01, 2018, 07:40:48 PM »

Sharpsman
Glad to see another shooter with a Dimick rifle! I have been dialing in my new .54 Dimick. I gave the Udderly Smooth cream a try for lube and am getting good 100 yd groups but the sights are the limiting factor here for me. I smeared some on a piece of polished steel 2 weeks ago for a rust test and there is none. So no fear on leaving my rifle loaded. Having used bear, mutton tallow for years but I just intrigued by this product that has lanolin in it.
best
kw

Daryl · « **Reply #68 on:** November 01, 2018, 09:22:24 PM »

Quote from: 45-110 on November 01, 2018, 07:40:48 PM

Sharpsman
Glad to see another shooter with a Dimick rifle! I have been dialing in my new .54 Dimick. I gave the Udderly Smooth cream a try for lube and am getting good 100 yd groups but the sights are the limiting factor here for me. I smeared some on a piece of polished steel 2 weeks ago for a rust test and there is none. So no fear on leaving my rifle loaded. Having used bear, mutton tallow for years but I just intrigued by this product that has lanolin in it.
best
kw

Udderly Smooth, eh? Might have to try it. Neetsfoot oil will give the same good accuracy and rust prevention.

WadePatton · « **Reply #69 on:** November 01, 2018, 09:28:51 PM »

I use pure lanolin for my skin and to reduce cuticle splits in Winter. Hmmm, never smeared it on a patch. But it does go back in history as far as domestic wool does, and that's the sort of thing I like.

It was used to protect metal on ships/boats BITD, if the info I've read was correct. Sounds quite plausible to me.

Daryl · « **Reply #70 on:** November 02, 2018, 07:40:20 PM »

Needs to soften bp fouling - have to try it, is all, Wade. Let us know how it works.

WadePatton · « **Reply #71 on:** November 02, 2018, 07:54:23 PM »

Quote from: Daryl on November 02, 2018, 07:40:20 PM

Needs to soften bp fouling - have to try it, is all, Wade. Let us know how it works.

Well adding water (BP solvent you know) requires emulsifiers, and things just got complicated, so I just might -not- fool with it. Thanks for the support however.

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #72 on:** November 04, 2018, 05:21:13 AM »

Lanolin I tried Once. (and Only Once!)

Daryl · « **Reply #73 on:** November 04, 2018, 09:08:17 PM »

There is a difference which could be a huge difference, in what is needed for a lube, depending on the shooting style and needs of the shooter. The requirements of a lube wherein the gun gets
"wiped" between shots, is VERY much different from the lube requirements where the gun is not wiped for an entire day's shooting, ie: that of a "seemingly clean shooting" lube.

The first lube only needs to help seal the bore and give a somewhat sliding passage of the ball down to the powder, then out the bore and rifling when fired, so that the patch is not burned through
by the flame and pressure behind the ball and the ball is delivered to the target - accurately.

The second lube in the same way, must also protect the ball from the flame and pressure, but must also leave 'some softening agent' in the fouling that remains in the bore. 56 or 57% of a black powder's charge results in solid waste. Some %age of that solid waste is ejected from the muzzle while some %age of that solid waste remains in the bore. That waste which remains in the bore
must not cake quickly and must remain soft enough to allow the next ball and patch be loaded.

Richard · « **Reply #74 on:** November 05, 2018, 07:54:01 PM »

Quote from: Daryl on November 04, 2018, 09:08:17 PM

56 or 57% of a black powder's charge results in solid waste. Some %age of that solid waste is ejected from the muzzle while some %age of that solid waste remains in the bore. That waste which remains in the bore

I finally took my new rifle out to the range after finishing it to make the final adjustment on the sights. Its the first muzzle loader I've owned so I don't speak with any experience. When I loaded the first charge (50 cal - with .490 / .015 prb & 50 g of FFF) I gave it the recommended tamping and marked the ram rod at the muzzle. After about 6 shots with no wiping between shots I noticed that the ball seemed to feel firmly seated by just pushing and a slight tap with the ram rod but, but consistently did not get to the original mark. Would stop short by 1/4" Then I would give it some considerable pounding with a range rod and get it to within 1/8".
I was probably over doing it but kept remembering all the warnings I had read about ensuring that the ball was fully seated on the powder. After another 30 shots the ball was consistently short of that original mark.
Is the amount of build up I was seeing normal?
Was I compressing powder or deforming the lead ball?
Also I'm pretty sure I was using too much mink oil as the spent patches had a crusty layer of black hard crystals on the back side of them?

Thanks.
Richard

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Author Topic: Last word on patch lube (Read 17978 times)

rfd

Lead ball 54

Lead ball 54

rfd