Author Topic: First crack at leather work (Read 2637 times)

Mike Lyons · « **on:** September 23, 2018, 08:49:20 PM »

I’m making a bunch of small things to try and learn from mistakes before diving into a bag. It seems that leather work is just as complex as gun building. I’m learning as I go but a crazy clean work space seems to be very important. Thanks Marc for all the advice and help.

Stoner creek · « **Reply #1 on:** September 23, 2018, 09:40:01 PM »

Hey, you’re good at that too! Way to go.
What’s next? Blacksmithing?

smallpatch · « **Reply #2 on:** September 23, 2018, 09:48:14 PM »

Did I miss something? Nitrate?

n stephenson · « **Reply #3 on:** September 23, 2018, 10:01:03 PM »

Man , that is nice work! Those are the prettiest hammer stalls I have ever seen! Will you be offering these for sale? GOOD JOB!! Nate

Mike Lyons · « **Reply #4 on:** September 23, 2018, 10:21:10 PM »

I don’t know what the Nitrate url thing was.

Quote from: Stoner creek on September 23, 2018, 09:40:01 PM

Hey, you’re good at that too! Way to go.
What’s next? Blacksmithing?

I’m not good yet. I have a lot of practice to do. I have a horn to do and I want to eventually make a set of knives. Who knows what after that.

Stoner creek · « **Reply #5 on:** September 23, 2018, 11:06:33 PM »

Let me know if you want to forge any knives. I’ve got all the stuff for it and a little bit of experience.

yellowhousejake · « **Reply #6 on:** September 24, 2018, 05:15:18 AM »

Do you have a stitching pony? They are simple to build and very worth the effort. I can't think of how many holsters I would have thrown my hands into the air over if I had to do them without one.

DAve

Mike Lyons · « **Reply #7 on:** September 24, 2018, 05:56:37 AM »

I ordered one last night. I’ve been using hemp thread and I ordered some waxed linen thread. I haven’t figured out how to keep your thread nice and white after rubbing the finish and shoe polish all over the leather. Even if you do that prior to the the thread, the leather is going to need attention sometime in its life. One of the bags I’m making has nice white thread.

yellowhousejake · « **Reply #8 on:** September 24, 2018, 06:08:21 AM »

The only thread I have seen remain white is cable lacing. It is a waxed nylon flat braid and very close to artificial sinew. I still have a spool left over from my aircraft mechanic days and use it on holsters and bags. It does a great job and is strong enough I think you could pull a car out a ditch with it. I wish mine would not stay white, but nothing on earth sticks to it.

You will enjoy the stitching pony.

DAve

thecapgunkid · « **Reply #9 on:** September 25, 2018, 12:55:57 PM »

If this is your first work, then down the road you'll learn enough to be a hoot.

You have the eye, now you need some tools.

Get or make a clamp to stitch with

the top guy was made for me by the Cabinet maker in Williamsburg in 1977. The bottom guy I ppicked up at a Flea in 1999.

I judge you're using one of those stamping tools that cuts your stitching holes with a hammer., and you probably use the larger version of harness needles. That's OK but you'll work faster with an awl, marking wheel and grooving tool

You'll stitch faster with a clamp, two SMALLER harness Needles and by spending a few moments to taper the thread end so you can live with tighter stitches and smaller holes.

If you start with sinew, scrape the three inches or so at the tiop with a sharp knife, wax the snot out of it, and thread your needle with a lock

One of these days I am going to get off my fanny and string together some of the articles I wrote on cordwaining for a tutorial. I've about taken my riflemaking to its plateau of mediocrity and am starting to itch for some leather projects.

Good start, keep it up.

and

don't shoot yore eye out, kid
The Capgun Kid AKA the Still River Cordwainer

FDR · « **Reply #10 on:** September 25, 2018, 09:46:28 PM »

Anybody else see this just below the picture of the clamps?

"ammonium aluminum sulphate formula"

Do we have a hacker or troll here or just a problem with my computer?

Fred

mark esterly · « **Reply #11 on:** September 26, 2018, 12:00:54 AM »

yea fred. it's a clickable link too

Karl Kunkel · « **Reply #12 on:** September 26, 2018, 12:18:25 AM »

Yep, I see it.

Mike Lyons · « **Reply #13 on:** September 26, 2018, 12:55:34 AM »

Quote from: thecapgunkid on September 25, 2018, 12:55:57 PM

If this is your first work, then down the road you'll learn enough to be a hoot.

You have the eye, now you need some tools.

Get or make a clamp to stitch with

ammonium aluminum sulphate formula

the top guy was made for me by the Cabinet maker in Williamsburg in 1977. The bottom guy I ppicked up at a Flea in 1999.

I judge you're using one of those stamping tools that cuts your stitching holes with a hammer., and you probably use the larger version of harness needles. That's OK but you'll work faster with an awl, marking wheel and grooving tool

You'll stitch faster with a clamp, two SMALLER harness Needles and by spending a few moments to taper the thread end so you can live with tighter stitches and smaller holes.

If you start with sinew, scrape the three inches or so at the tiop with a sharp knife, wax the snot out of it, and thread your needle with a lock

535i xdrive 0 60

One of these days I am going to get off my fanny and string together some of the articles I wrote on cordwaining for a tutorial. I've about taken my riflemaking to its plateau of mediocrity and am starting to itch for some leather projects.

Good start, keep it up.

and

don't shoot yore eye out, kid
The Capgun Kid AKA the Still River Cordwainer

Thank you for all the information. There’s a lot to learn. Hopefully I can build a couple nice bags eventually. I bought a cheap 18 piece tool set from eBay. The tools seem to cut well. I just picked up my dads old leather tools today. I don’t remember him working with leather but at one point my mother told me that he made all the leather clothes, chaps, etc for his motorcycle buddies. He had a ton of leather tools. Some of them look worn out, so he must have used them quite a bit. He passed a year ago so it’s kind of neat possibly putting his tools back to use.

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #14 on:** September 26, 2018, 01:28:01 AM »

Quote from: FDR on September 25, 2018, 09:46:28 PM

Anybody else see this just below the picture of the clamps?

"ammonium aluminum sulphate formula"

Do we have a hacker or troll here or just a problem with my computer?

Fred

T.O.F. explained this in another post, I will put a link in here if I can find it. I edited out the Two questionable links. TC

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #15 on:** September 26, 2018, 01:30:32 AM »

Here is the post:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=50987.msg506092#msg506092

Tim C.

FDR · « **Reply #16 on:** September 26, 2018, 01:53:27 AM »

Thanks Tim! Now I know to ignore the insert.
Explains why I answered a question about the chemical symbol for nitrate. I thought I was answering a legitimate question someone posted.

Fred

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #17 on:** September 26, 2018, 08:04:43 PM »

I just purchased some supplies from Springfield Leather which included some Needle,Harness,"0"Sm Needle,Harness,"00"Med and some Thread,Wax,Poly,Black,4oz. !0 needles cost $5.95 and the 4 oz poly thread was $11.95. I like the poly thread because you can split it down to three strands (use #0 needle) and four strands (use #00 needle) quickly and the stuff is strong for it's diameter. I have a bulk spool of #5 Barbour linen thread that I use with heave leather (10 - 12 oz) and large harness needles (#000 needle) that work well for that size leather.

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #18 on:** September 27, 2018, 02:37:26 AM »

You are doing great on the leather work, just as you did on the rifles.

News:

Author Topic: First crack at leather work (Read 2637 times)

n stephenson