varying degrees of Difficulty of Lock inletting

[bnail]

I thought I read on here that certain Locks' Geometry may present unique inletting challenges so I thought I would ask the collective before ordering. 
Are there certain locks that are more difficult to inlet than others?  for instance, is the banana shape of a Chambers Early Germanic Lock more or less difficult that Chambers Colonial Virginia, or The Large Siler for that matter.
Currently I am weighing the Early Germanic against the Colonial Virginia for use on my build.  after I settle on the Lock then I will be able to finally dial in the School.   

[B.Habermehl]

I have inlet a bunch of different  makers locks in different projects. They are mostly all the same to me. The precess is the same for me for any flint lock. Percussion locks require some different operations. BJH

[smylee grouch]

The wood removal is basically the same for all locks but lock alignment can vary with different locks. Getting the lock in the right place for the vent to line up and for the lock screws to come out in the right place varies somewhat from lock to lock. Also the depth can vary with different locks as the lock plate's are different on say an English style compared to a Germanic style.

[TommyG]

Smylee's right.  Inletting operation will be pretty much the same.  You need to have all the other variables worked out before you start to sink the plate - touch hole location, lock bolt location, tail position on the wrist, trigger location(the lock will determine this)and if you are using set triggers- trigger bar clearances will need to figure into the equation.  Once I cut my lock panel parallel to the barrel, I re-draw all the locations for what I just mentioned above, including the approximate location of the tang bolt.  I don't want any mistakes or after thoughts that can be avoided up front as once inletted it's pretty much where it's going to be.

[Blacksmoke]

bnail: The breech line is always your "datum line".  From this point your lock is located as the fence is always back against it,  Your trigger pull is established from this point because of the location of the lock and moving forward your barrel length is established. You choose the "school" before you do any latout. You will discover that all "parts" of the gun are related in terms of thier respective position.  But always start wirth the location of the breech line - this is the shoulder that the barrel backs up against.   Hope this helps,    Hugh Toenjes

[Craig Wilcox]

Hugh, I don't know about bnail, but that reminder sure helps me!

And going to try to get to your next class - Gary has great words for you.

[Goo]

You need a lock that measures 1/2” from the flash gaurd to the center of the pan. Some locks have small or short flash pans and the back of the pan wont sit even with th breech when you use a standard 1/2” breech plug.   If you use one of these small or short pan locks then you have an architectural appearance problem.  You can move the lock forward and the back of the pan will sit forward of the breech and your touch hole will kiss the front of the breech plug.   Choice two use a 3/8” breech plug set up ( horrified looks from 90% of the forum) choice 3, drill through the breech plug ( horrified screams from the forum) or use a lock with a wide enough flash pan so it accommodates the positioning of even with the breech.   The bigger locks from RE Davis are a good choice

[M. E. Pering]

Bnail, I have never found one lock to be anymore difficult to inlet than another, as others here have said.  However, geometry of where it is inlet is very important, and needs thorough consideration before chisel contacts wood.  Most barrels I have seen are threaded for a 1/2" breech plug, and this usually means your lock will be further forward than historical arms had it.  In the past I have slightly modified the plug to get the touch hole as far back as possible. 

However, in this month's issue of "MuzzleBlasts", there is an article entitled "My Masterpiece" by Mr. Hugh Toenjes. in which he shows a diagram of a breech that has been modified to correctly position the lock.  This, IMHO, is a safer alternative to using a shorter plug, and also provides some room to sneak a bit of powder behind the ball in the event you dry ball the rifle.  I am thinking I may try this with my next rifle.

Great article, BTW Mr. Toenjes.   


M. E. Pering

[Blacksmoke]

Mr. Pering,  Thank you for the comment!  I was going to suggest to Mr. Goo to use my breeching method which would eliminate a number of problems and also give a faster, more efficient  burn to the powder charge.  This is why the London makers employed it and why I use it.     Hugh Toenjes

[bnail]

 Yes, many, many tganks gor the insights!  I finding out just HOW MUCH i dont know and its daunting.  But thoe lock/breech relationship is so much more intrricate than i  realised.  I need to read that article!
i havent been a member if the NMLRA since the 90s looks like its time to join back up.

[M. E. Pering]

Yes, many, many tganks gor the insights!  I finding out just HOW MUCH i dont know and its daunting.  But thoe lock/breech relationship is so much more intrricate than i  realised.  I need to read that article!
i havent been a member if the NMLRA since the 90s looks like its time to join back up.

Our lives should be filled with these moments, Bnail.  It is a blessing to understand how much more we have to learn, and how much more we can gain from that experience.  I know you know more now than when you joined this forum.  Knowing that you don't know is as important as what you do know.  Don't believe the learning-curve is as steep as it appears looking up... Just know you will get there, and you will have many hands up to help you get there.

M. E. Pering

[Goo]

I was going to suggest to Mr. Goo to use my breeching method which would eliminate a number of problems and also give a faster, more efficient  burn to the powder charge.  This is why the London makers employed it and why I use it.     Hugh Toenjes

     
 
Hi Hugh,   I would be pleased to study your method as I firmly trust that information and education is like money, you never seem to have enough.   
I have also altered flash pan guards to make that area wider on some locks.   But when you do this all the holes must be drilled & threaded before hand as you dont know which steel was used during the casting process.  Welding in that area can harden the steel if it was cast with higher carbon steel
.

[T*O*F]

However, in this month's issue of "MuzzleBlasts", there is an article entitled "My Masterpiece" by Mr. Hugh Toenjes. in which he shows a diagram of a breech that has been modified to correctly position the lock.  This, IMHO, is a safer alternative to using a shorter plug, and also provides some room to sneak a bit of powder behind the ball in the event you dry ball the rifle.

Exactly which month's issue would that be......Sept, Oct, or Nov?  We don't all receive our issues at the same time or month.

[M. E. Pering]

October 2018