Best Drill for Ramrod Hole

[Nhgrants]

What is the best drill for a 3/8" ramrod hole?  What I have used is a brad point twist bit welded to a steel rod both 3/8".
It was gas weld in a lathe and I thought it to be quite straight.  I don't believe that this setup worked well.  The drill drifted down quite a bit.
Also I think this style of bit is intended to cleanly cut across the grain rather than into end grain like a cross cut saw versus a rip saw.
I think in the past I used a regular twist bit and that also drifted a little but cut better.  I realize that the drilling is go in about 1/2' and back out to clear the chips.  Have any of you made up a drill that worked well and was controllable?

What have some of you found to be the best and most predictable bit to use?  I actually would like to do this with a bit brace or hand drill
but I would think that the drill would need to cut efficiently for that to be productive.  Please let me know your thoughts. 

[Mike Brooks]

Back in the dark ages when I was still drilling my own RR holes I found that generally the drill tended to go where ever it was pointed.  If your set up isn't perfect your hole isn't going to go where you think it is.

[mikeyfirelock]

I prefer the single straight flute “gun drill” for the ramrod hole.  I feel it has less tendency to wander.  Iit’s necessary to make sure that the groove is PERFECTLY laid out before you start.  It must be centered on the stock, and (with a straight barrel) absolutely parallel to the barrel.  I use a set of calipers to check this before I start.  The drill must be very sharp.  Stone the edge, and touch up if needed.  DO NOT FORCE THE DRILL....let it cut its way through without much pressure.    (I found these things out the hard way.)

[mikeyfirelock]

And yes,  I use a bit and brace.  (Not fast, but makes you feel like a real old timey gunsmith’j

[flehto]

My RR hole drills are made from 48"  drill rod and either a 3/8 or 5/16 aircraft length drills. The work was done in a lathe and a smaller dia was turned on the shank end of the drills and a very close fitting hole was drilled into the drill rod and accepted the tuned down drill shank.  A chamfer on the shoulder of the drill and end of the drill rod  were cut and hi temp silver solder was laid in the chamfers and smoothed down.  Doing it this way eliminated any runout.

The drill   " point" was ground to a flat bottom which I thought would cut independently of curl and grain and it worked well. Visited Fred Miller and looked at his  RR drills and they also had a flat bottom "point".....Fred

[Bob Roller]

My RR hole drills are made from 48"  drill rod and either a 3/8 or 5/16 aircraft length drills. The work was done in a lathe and a smaller dia was turned on the shank end of the drills and a very close fitting hole was drilled into the drill rod and accepted the tuned down drill shank.  A chamfer on the shoulder of the drill and end of the drill rod  were cut and hi temp silver solder was laid in the chamfers and smoothed down.  Doing it this way eliminated any runout.

The drill   " point" was ground to a flat bottom which I thought would cut independently of curl and grain and it worked well. Visited Fred Miller and looked at his  RR drills and they also had a flat bottom "point".....Fred

Flat across like a 2 flute end mill works well and slow RPM and light feed should
work well.

Bob Roller

[Hungry Horse]

I also use a ramrod drill with a flat point. Mine is a standard length jobber bit welded to a four foot steel rod, in a lathe.

  Hungry Horse

[Davemuzz]

Not that I've ever done this, nor am I going to try, but would it be a good idea to consider drilling a length of hole....like 2" with a small pilot drill (not a center drill) first, followed by your "regular" drill that you use?

I realize this would be a PITA because of having to swap from pilot to regular every say...2" or so. But I wonder if you would get a consistent outcome?

What say ye drillers of RR holes?

[Pukka Bundook]

I use a regular drill bit welded to a rod.  This has always worked very well for me.
Bit of deer tallow as lube, and no worries if set up right.

[Mark Elliott]

As others have said, the groove needs to be perfectly aligned and the drill bit needs to sit flat in the groove.  You also need to clamp the bit down tight in the groove where it enters the stock.   This is to keep the bit from climbing up out of the bottom of the groove.  This has generally been my problem.  It doesn't take much of a bump up to cause you a real problem.  I use the single flute gun drills, but I don't think the drill bit matters as much as the prep and setup.   

[Eric Kettenburg]

I've used pretty much every type. They all work well, as long as the bit/rod are welded accurately so that you have a straight long bit/rod, as long as they are very sharp, and as long as you get the bit started exactly where it needs to go with no "bump up" as noted above.  This last parts seems to be most important.  I personally prefer the brad point bits and keep them crazy sharp, and as long as I get them started right, I don't even bother with the test holes etc., just back them out every inch or so to keep things clear and keep them well-bedded in the rammer groove.

[rich pierce]

I bought an old spoon bit to try.  I’m guessing that’s what they used originally.  Got to get it fixed up on a rod.

[Huntschool]

Mine are drill rod and squared off bit built by a very good machine shop.  Keep the bit sharp and go kinda slow.

Another thing I used was a board guide clamped over the RR channel from nose to the point of entry on a raw stock.  That seemed to help keep everything running true when the bit entered the solid wood.  I went about 2-3" at a time backing the bit out and then going in again.  I used warmed paraffin as a "lube."  It worked/works well for me.  I can also use the same setup if I want to enlarge a RR channel and hole......

Just some thoughts

[Nhgrants]

How did you grind your bits to a flat cutting edge?
When you say flat, does that mean that the cutting edges are flat or perpendicular to the center of the bit
But the back of the cutting edge is beveled? Thanks

[jrb]

there's a video on youtube of Jim Kibler drilling a rr hole.

[Jim Kibler]

I should probably update this video sometime.  I do things a little different now.  In the past two and a half years I've drilled hundreds of stocks and here is some of what I've learned to be most important:

Have groove pointed in exact right direction and  hold stock blank from moving.
Start drill perfectly.  The point at which the drill just starts to create a dimple is super important.
I used gun drill geometry.  Keep sharp.  Clear chips frequently.  Keep relatively cool.  Lubricate.  I also relieve the shank in places to reduce friction.
Don't clamp in groove too hard while drilling.  Just hold drill from flopping around in groove.

If these steps are taken, the chances of problems are drastically reduced.  We still ocassionally have problems, but not that often.  My next step is to use carbide drills so the stay sharp longer and are stiffer.

Jim

[David Rase]

Here are a couple of pics of the geometry I use for my drills.  For years I used to sharpen them myself.  I have recently started having them professionally sharpened at a tool sharpening service and have seen a noticeable difference in accuracy.  I did change up my process a bit this year as well which also has contributed to more consistent results.
David

[M. E. Pering]

I use a bit shaped like the one Mr. Rase shows in his photos.  I have tried both jobber tipped, and brad points, and find them both to wander in this, my most dreaded job.  But this type of bit seems to work best for me.

I think Mr. Kibler's advice is great, too.  Personally, I use a mix of beeswax and Crisco as a lube, and I only go about 1/8" to 1/4" before I clear chips.  This is important, because you might be surprised how much just one chip can throw off the trajectory of the bit, and a small amount gets magnified with greater depth.  Also, once I have cleared the chips, I will put the drill back into the hole, with no lube, and linger at the bottom of the hole WITHOUT advancing the bit.  I then pull the bit out, and look for any chips or dust on the cutting edge.  If I find it, I will repeat this process.  If not, I will lube again, and advance as usual.  About every 3", I pull the drill and check the hole with a chunks of ramrod I have cut specifically for this purpose.  If I feel resistance, this indicates the bit is wandering, and I need to think about how I wish to proceed.  So that is what I use, and how I use it.

M. E. Pering

[elkhorne]

David,
Do you know anywhere one can purchase a ramrod drill like you showed above? Have heard varying stories about the ones sold by TOW but they have been out of stock for some time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
elkhorne

[David Rase]

elkhorne,
I bought my ramrod drills, 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4" from Don Eads many moons ago.  I am not sure where you can come up with them today.  I asked my sharpening service a couple of months ago, who has custom made cutters for my stock duplicator,  if they could make me some additional ramrods and they said no. 
David

[Craig Wilcox]

Big thing for me is having patience.  Especially with a Forstner or any brad point - clear those chips!  Only takes a couple seconds, especially when you are not yet very deep, but it does help to keep the bit from wandering off to the back pasture.  Depending on the wood and speed of cutting, but clearing every 1/2" or so really helps.

[Sawfiler]

I'm still new at this and only drilled three of these holes - But I did notice my natural inclination was to clamp the stock upside down in the vise while drilling so I could see what I was doing. I figured out quickly that if you clamp the stock on its side you can still see clearly what you are doing, but it makes clearing the chips much easier as they fall out when you pull the bit out rather than having to be blown or swept out of the ramrod groove. Not sure if anyone else does that but it seems to help. I have been very lucky with all my ramrod holes so far going right where I wanted them.

[Craig Wilcox]

Doggone, Sawfiler!  That is a nifty trick, and you can bet I will be using it in the future!

[Willbarq]

What is the best drill for a 3/8" ramrod hole?  What I have used is a brad point twist bit welded to a steel rod both 3/8".
It was gas weld in a lathe and I thought it to be quite straight.  I don't believe that this setup worked well.  The drill drifted down quite a bit.
Also I think this style of bit is intended to cleanly cut across the grain rather than into end grain like a cross cut saw versus a rip saw.
I think in the past I used a regular twist bit and that also drifted a little but cut better.  I realize that the drilling is go in about 1/2' and back out to clear the chips.  Have any of you made up a drill that worked well and was controllable?

I bought a super long bit. It's 48 inches. Worth every penny. TOTW.
What have some of you found to be the best and most predictable bit to use?  I actually would like to do this with a bit brace or hand drill
but I would think that the drill would need to cut efficiently for that to be productive.  Please let me know your thoughts.

[davec2]

Single flute drills are called "gun drills" and are used for long L / D holes (length over diameter)

http://www.sterlinggundrills.com/prices/single-flute.php

GA037504800   3/8" diameter   48" long   $117.24   Carbide tip