Reading the frizzen

[Terry Reynolds]

Just got my trade gun finished and tried it for spark which was good but the marks left on the frizzen has me puzzled. It looks like it bounces on the flint by the looks on the scraps left on it.

My question is shouldn’t there be one continuous scrap mark down the frizzen?

[OldMtnMan]

Maybe it shouldn't be browned. Just a guess though. The guys who know will be along.

[Daryl]

After you shoot it a few times- like 500, it will be scraped all the way down.

If you watch Pletch's slo-mo flintlock firing videos you will likely see some bouncing that takes place with some locks.

The 'blunter' the angle, the more bounce.  Adjusting the flint in (shorter flint) a bit might reduce the bounce.

It isn't really bad, but I like to have the flint starting higher up than what it appears on your picture. 

Thus, would need to be further out than yours is.  The lock itself will help you figure out what IT wants.

[Terry Reynolds]

Maybe it shouldn't be browned. Just a guess though. The guys who know will be along.

OldMtnMan, that browning had to be from fumes or something else, I don’t brown the face. Still needs to be cleaned up. Thanks

[Terry Reynolds]

After you shoot it a few times- like 500, it will be scraped all the way down.

If you watch Pletch's slo-mo flintlock firing videos you will likely see some bouncing that takes place with some locks.

The 'blunter' the angle, the more bounce.  Adjusting the flint in (shorter flint) a bit might reduce the bounce.

It isn't really bad, but I like to have the flint starting higher up than what it appears on your picture. 

Thus, would need to be further out than yours is.  The lock itself will help you figure out what IT wants.

Daryl, I’ll flip the flint and see what happens. Thanks

[Darkhorse]

Before shooting and occasionally while shooting, wipe the frizzen face and top and bottom of the flint with alcohol. I wipe the pan also. This helps to remove any oil or fouling buildup that might cause the flint edge to bounce instead of digging in.

[hanshi]

Just don't let the flint strike too directly.  A strike of around 60 degrees (+ or -) is normally called for.

[Daryl]

Exactly- the blow should be a downward striking, scraping motion. Not, at a blunt angle, just as hanshi notes above.

[Darkhorse]

It appears from the photo that your flint is set a slight angle to the frizzen causing the left side to strike first. The flint face should strike the frizzen across the whole width for the maximum amount of sparks.

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

So when you describe the angle of strike are you basing this on the top side of the flint?  Or the bottom side? 

Whenever I've read this type of advice I've always looked at the angle from the top-side, which in my case is bevel-up.  This gives the impression that the strike angle is acute.  However if you look at the bottom of the flint (non-beveled) the angle looks pretty blunt.

Just curious how to interpret the advice to have a strike angle of 60°. 

[OldMtnMan]

Just imagine if you were holding the flint in your hand. How would you strike the frizzen with it to produce the best spark? Just like starting a fire

[Daryl]

exactly

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

This is with a 7/8" flint.  The angle is definitely more blunt than if I were using it in my hand to start a fire.  The problem is, you can see that with 7/8" flint it is already striking 1/3 of the way down the frizzen. If I go much shorter I'll only scrape the bottom 1/2 or 1/3 of the frizzen. 

[Daryl]

Yes - this is one reason there are different length cocks.

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

OK.  So send the lock back to Chambers and they might be able to provide me with a cock of proper dimensions?

[Flint62Smoothie]

Notch or cut oval in the leather so the flint moves all the way back to the jaw screw. Try a shorter flint bevel down too.

[Pete G.]

Just shoot the thing .  I believe you'll be fine.

[rich pierce]

Just shoot the thing .  I believe you'll be fine.

Exactly

[hanshi]

The angle of the flint edge looks fine to me.

[bgf]

I've always been told, read, heard, etc. that 2/3 of way up frizzen is ideal.  Makes sense as frizzen tapers toward top?  My late Ketland get a Flint bevel up to start, striking 1/2-2/3 up frizzen; when the Flint gets shorter, I turn the Flint over...   I do something similar with a Durs Egg, although it is more particular, and often I have to start with bevel down if the Flint is smaller than the full size "3/4(x1)"".  The late Ketland really works better for me with smaller 5/8x3/4 flints, which were originally recommended for it, though I also see 3/4x1 recommended for it now.

The marks on the frizzen are normal, even with some skip.  Eventually it will look like a washboard, and it will continue to work for a while after that.  When the frizzen gets some deep strike wear, I use s little sandpaper to smoothe it enough to keep the Flint from catching and breaking or hanging...

Just my limited experience...

[MuskratMike]

Flint62 has the right idea. Your flint is not all the back in the leather, and since you appear to be using a fairly thick leather cut a notch in the back of the leather. Do these two things and I believe it will solve your problems.

[Leatherbark]

There is no law on God's green earth that says you have to place the leather from the rear.  If you put the leather in from the side the back of the flint will rest against the cock screw.  No need to notch the leather that way.  Other than that I'd leave it as is and shoot it until it wears in.


Bob

[recurve]

If you want to increase the angle just cut some leather or a match stick and shim the rock(flint) to a sharper angle ( & flip the flint over)