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sights for chunk

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Daryl:
Further note about our chunk testing yesterday - it's certainly a different type of shooting, that's for sure.

  I started off using my 'express-type" sights, round bead on the front, wide V at the back.  After the heat came up in the barrel, I switched to narrow V with a silver blade. We were both using shaders so the sights looked great.  Getting the proper 'spotter' target might be a hassle.  With the bead front, the spotter target I supplied with the chuck targets was a good one, but not so good with a blade. A solid black circle or black square would be better for blade front sights - I found this out myself.

 Part way through the shooting, I changed sights, putting on the black and narrow V notch sights. My shooting immediatly went down hill - horrible pattern-type groups. I changed the target to a round black but still couldn't get groups I as happy with - they wer more like patterns.

  I switched the sights back to the bead and wide V and then started shooting well again, but couldn't hold better than an inch group for 6 or 7 shots. I guess that will have to do.  The ringed 'spotter' works well as the bead covers the inner black rings, leaving a single ring of black halo'd around the bead. This seems to work for me the best.

  The trouble I ad with the blade, was getting the correct amount of light between the bull and the front sight.  Coupled with this, I was having trouble agan with too much fuzziness around the read V notch.  It's Plenty wide enough for lots of light, but I still couldn't see it very well.  My eye-sight sees  the Express-type sights much better.


ironwolf:
  I know what you mean about the 'pattern' groups.  It's still amazing to me, how different sights can bend and distort light the way they do.  I guess that's the beauty of testing. 
  I've got an offhand gun in the works and plan on using your  "Wide V and Bead"  combination, Daryl.  I'm not sure if I could benefit from an additional blade.  The gun will be used primarily at 25, 50 and 100 Yds.  I guess I could set the flip up for the long shot and split the difference on the close targets with the fixed blade. ???

  YMHS, Kevin

Daryl:
Kevin - One idea of the ears of the shallow V, is they give the 100 yard zero with the bead held in the middle, between the points.
; Another is the wide V doesn't give the fuzziness or haziness of a deep knoth sight with aging eyes.  At least that's what I find. Too, the front sight, whether it's a blade of bear, gets a fuzziness around it. With a bead, you know the centre of the bead is the point of impact- where there is no hazziness.  With a blade, the fuzzy top surface is indistinct, making p[oint of impact a guessing game. That's my theory and I'm sitcking to it - for now. :)

Roger Fisher:
I use a sq top post frt sight and a sq notch rear with a flat top - no horny horns :D

With shaders frt and rear.  My spotter is a black/black square on white/white paper for the contrast.  My black square is abt the same with of the frt blade in its sight picture.   Now then at my age my problem is when the top of the frt blade approaches the 6/0'clock line on that black block.  Then that line fuzzes out.  I am thinking of going to a white/white square on black/black paper  for a spotter.  I may then lose the frt blade top in the black area  of the spotter. I tried such a spotter q few years ago and discarded that idea when I went to the black square..  I intend to post 2 spotters side by side one of each and see what the old eyes tell me is better.
  Stay home in bed probably ::)

D. Taylor Sapergia:
Roger, I think you are on to something.  With the open sights (no shaders) the silver blade shows up nicely on a dark target, but put on the shaders which crisps up the sights, and you cannot see the sights against the black centre.  So, i've made up some targets of black poster board with some various shapes, colours and sizes of centres...I'll let you know how this goes.  This chunk game is interesting, and no where near as easy as I thought it was going to be.

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