Lock tuning?

[bob in the woods]

Try using a scraper on your cleaning rod and see what you can clean off the breech face. You may very well have a build up there which can be difficult to clean with a patch . Next, if the lock works well when out of the gun, that tells you that there is interference somewhere . Could be the trigger, but since you say it is "slow" I'd bet you have wood rubbing somewhere. Check the depth of the hole for the sear and see if the sear end is perhaps rubbing [ hole not deep enough due to wood shrinkage]  I don't see any rub marks in your photo so that may be it. Leave the vent alone for now. I don't believe it's a problem

[rfd]

i'd bet on a breech/chamber issue and the path between the touch hole and the powder charge.  this should be relatively easy to assess and fix by pulling the breech plug ... yes, that alone might not be a task for yer wheelhouse.

[WKevinD]

I think I need to elaborate a bit on my previous statement.

I believe you have two issues, #1- over tightening the the upper lock bolt causing the frizzen drag (and possibly gouging the backside of the hammer) #2- improper cleaning, causing crud buildup at the breech.

Overtightening the upper lock bolt will tip the lock causing the two shiny spots you can see in your pictures, the inside edge of the frizzen and the top of the flat above your touch hole. This will throw off your spark/frizzen timing and if the bolt end touches the hammer it will slow things down even more.

Cleaning- put a round toothpick in the touch hole (with the lock removed) fill the barrel with cold water and with a snug fitting patch (remove the toothpick) force the water out, you should be able to shoot the water about ten feet (so do it outside) That should dislodge most of the crud at your breech.

Also when shooting make sure you have a tight enough patch/ ball to ensure you ignite all the powder and make sure it's black powder, that other stuff just won't work in a flintlock.

Kevin

[Martin S.]

Kevin,

The shiny spot on the flat was caused by me when I put a flint in the gun without lining it up correctly.  The flint edge struck the barrel flat, causing the shiny spot.  That was a hard lesson to learn, but I won't do it again.

I will take your advice and make sure I don't over tighten the lock bolts.

I use the round toothpick when I clean, but I have not tried to shoot water out of the touch hole as you mentioned.  I will certainly give that a try.  I was trying to keep water off the wood, but I can wipe it down when I am finished.

I am still trying to dial in the load for this rifle.  I think it has round bottom grooves, but the coning is so deep, I am not really sure.  I was using a .530 ball with pillow ticking patch, but I was getting cut patches and burn through.  I was testing .535 balls when I had so many ignition problems I gave up and shot another rifle instead.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.  I think at this point I will clean the rifle again, using all the techniques described, then test it again and let you know how it works.

I do think at this point the problem may be narrowed down to maybe two things.  1) Crud in the touch hole or on the breech plug face, and/or 2) wood rubbing against the internal lock parts as the lock is fired.

I will keep you all advised when I have figured it out.

[EC121]

MBS sells a breech face brush that works well for me.  I brush the face while wet and then put a cleaning patch over the brush and wipe it dry.  Buy more than one because they will corrode.  Must be bronze.

[Martin S.]

i'd bet on a breech/chamber issue and the path between the touch hole and the powder charge.  this should be relatively easy to assess and fix by pulling the breech plug ... yes, that alone might not be a task for yer wheelhouse.

I have mentioned that I will attend the Canter's Cave gun building class in January.  I will bring the rifle along and get some help from them to pull the breech plug.  I really don't want to do that myself. 

Thanks for your suggestion, and all the other suggestions that have been made.  I really appreciate the help from all of you.

[Martin S.]

MBS sells a breech face brush that works well for me.  I brush the face while wet and then put a cleaning patch over the brush and wipe it dry.  Buy more than one because they will corrode.  Must be bronze.

OK, I'll get one of those, thanks.

[Huntschool]

I really feel like you have interference between the frizzen and the barrel flat just by the look of the marks.  If it was a simple flint cut the marks would be very different.


As such, the above comment on not tightening your upper lock bolt would be my first thing and then and only then if it was still not working I might take just a "hair" (and I mean a hair) off of the barrel edge of the frizzen pan cover area.

JMHO.....  Good luck working this out.

[Martin S.]

OK, thanks.

I'll mention that to Ian Pratt when I have him look at it in January.

I do appreciate your input, and all the kind suggestions from everyone on this board.

[Huntschool]

If you are going to have Ian look at it...…  Problem solved.....  Good move.