Does it matter which order, iron nitrate or stain first?

[Doc]

Will it matter for the extra curly maple if I really want the grain to pop??? 

Thanks
Doc

[Scota4570]

Use the iron nitrate (AF) first.

[Kingsburyarms]

Agreed..AF first......

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

For serious amplified curl, soak the wood with tannic acid first, then FN, then dyes or stains if you want a different hue.

Taylor

Here's a Kibler stock with just tannic acid and FN...no additional stains.

[Mike Brooks]

For serious amplified curl, soak the wood with tannic acid first, then FN, then dyes or stains if you want a different hue.

Taylor

Here's a Kibler stock with just tannic acid and FN...no additional stains.

That's how I did this one too. I suppose you could follow with some sort of reddish stain after the tannic and blushing the AF. This one could have been very dark but I scrubbed it way back with a scotch brite pad and oil.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

With the tannic acid bath followed by nitric acid, the stock will turn jet black.  At that point, you will need to sand it back to the wood to uncover the harder tops and valleys of the curl.  The end grain of the curl will retain the darkness and no amount of scrubbing will take it out.  At that stage, another application of FN and a blush will yield the brown/red colour we associate with longrifles.  Studying books like the Moravian book will show that the red colour we aim for didn't exist in those early examples...it was simply brown.  Mike nailed it in his example.

[Tim]

For serious amplified curl, soak the wood with tannic acid first, then FN, then dyes or stains if you want a different hue.

Taylor

Here's a Kibler stock with just tannic acid and FN...no additional stains.

That's how I did this one too. I suppose you could follow with some sort of reddish stain after the tannic and blushing the AF. This one could have been very dark but I scrubbed it way back with a scotch brite pad and oil.

Wow Mike, That’s a fine looking stock finish. May I ask what oil You used?
I want to order all of the finishing supplies for My SMR from Jim Kibler and he sells the Permalyn sealer.

[Mike Brooks]

 several coats of Formbys gloss finish  tung oil rubbed out and followed by dark brown bri wax.

[Doc]

Thanks all,  as usual,  you are much help!!

Doc