Lehigh Valley Trigger

[Mike Lyons]

All of the original pictures that I have show the Lehigh Valley rifle with a single trigger.  I want to make one in .32 or .36 cal with a set trigger.  Am I totally out of line thinking about it?  Does anyone know of one having a single or double set trigger?  Any suggestions on the better option.  Looking at the one that I have, it would be hard to fit a double set trigger in the trigger guard.

[Mr. Bubbles]

John Gonter made some with DST's  Here's a link to one that's currently for sale.
http://aspenshadeltd.com/inventory_consign.html

You're right though that most of them have single triggers  You could always build one with a single set trigger.  Outwardly, it would still look correct, especially if you cut off the adjustment screw

[Mike Brooks]

I believe it was Kuntz that made a few guns with a single set trigger you push forward to set. I don't recall any Lehigh guns with a double set.

[Stophel]

I only recall seeing one Lehigh/Northampton rifle (non-Bethlehem/Christian's Spring) with set triggers.  A somewhat odd cherry stocked gun that I have the feeling is actually an Allemaengel/Berks county rifle...

[rich pierce]

Agree

[Mike Lyons]

Thank you all for the advice.  I think I’m going with the single set trigger.  Now to chose the right lock. Some look like ketlands and some like small silers. 

[Mike Brooks]

Thank you all for the advice.  I think I’m going with the single set trigger.  Now to chose the right lock. Some look like ketlands and some like small silers.

I'm making another Lehigh at the moment. I'm using a Zornes "Classic" which is between a small and large Siler in size. Has a thick bolster which makes architecture a little easier. This is a great little lock for a smaller breech, mine has a 7/8" breech.

 I'm not sure if you're going to be able to get all the guts of a single set trigger inside of a Lehigh unless you're going with a pretty big breech. You'll probably have to do some figurin'.

[Mike Lyons]

Thanks Mike. I'm learning that "figurin" in a build usually equals more time and money.  I want a nice Lehigh to use at the monthly target shoots and to squirrel hunt.  I may be dreaming too big.  I guess, worse case scenario I'll be posting a set  trigger for sale in the for sale section.   Hope to see you in Cumberland.

[Mike Brooks]

Thanks Mike. I'm learning that "figurin" in a build usually equals more time and money.  I want a nice Lehigh to use at the monthly target shoots and to squirrel hunt.  I may be dreaming too big.  I guess, worse case scenario I'll be posting a set  trigger for sale in the for sale section.   Hope to see you in Cumberland.

I'd use a simple trigger pinned through the wood and just set it up  with a light pull.

[Mr. Bubbles]

I used the Davis DASST in my Kuntz #5.  I wound up bending the sear bar upwards, and filing the trigger blades as thin as I could to make it all fit.  The performance improvement (if you can really call it that) isn't really worth all the hassle it took to get it in there.

[smallpatch]

You don't need a set trigger if it's set up right.

[Mike Lyons]

You don't need a set trigger if it's set up right.

Thanks,  I’m going to go with a simple trigger.  The gathering of parts is something you don’t get with buying kits.

[smallpatch]

Afghan,
BUT, you do get to pick the RIGHT parts.  Something you don't alway get with kits.
Also, if you're building a Rupp, use a large Siler, with the tail pinched, and lowered a bit.
If your going with a Kuntz, use the Classic Ketland.
TOW has a fowler trigger that can be reshaped easily to look like a Lehigh trigger.

[Stophel]

I hammer triggers out of a piece of steel.  It's actually quite satisfying.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I too.  Here's the simple trigger I made for my Jacob Kuntz rifle.  Incidentally, the trigger pull is light, crisp and no creep, on this rifle.  A pleasure to shoot.  Lock is Chamber's late Ketland.