Just received [Finished!] my very first kit, Kibler Colonial!

[Obi2winky]

Hi everyone,
I just received my very first kit, a Kibler Colonial! It was so securely packaged, I couldn't put all the pieces back in there the way Mr. Kibler shipped it.. haha I don't know anything about building rifles except for what I've read and seen in youtube, but even I can tell it's really high quality kit. I'm so happy to finally have it my hands!

I was looking over the overall kit and thinking ahead. There's a part of the stock where the lock and the barrel comes together where the wood is so thin, that part of the wood is missing. Is that something I need to fill up with some epoxy or do I leave it alone? I'm guessing that part of the wood really isn't going to take on any force, so it probably doesn't matter. But thought I'd ask for expert advise.

thanks!

[M. E. Pering]

Obi2winky... That is common on all longrifles… It is where the top of the mainspring sits.  Your concern is understandable, but unwarranted.  This area of the stock has some very thin areas.  Do not remove them unless absolutely necessary.  Kibler kits, as I understand them, are of the very highest quality, so progress slowly, and ask us lots of questions if you have them.

Matt

[Obi2winky]

That’s what I figured. Thanks for confirming that!

Towa

[rfd]

to greatly strengthen any thin wood, wick in quality, hobby shoe grade water thin CYA (CYAnoacrylate glue, hobby shop brands such as "hot stuff").  do this after staining the wood.  i also do this to the entire lock mortise and barrel channel, as a sealant and bp residue barrier.

[Dave Marsh]

Obi, watch and follow Jim Kibler's videos under the tutorials.  You'll be just fine.  That is how I did mine and it came out very nice.  If you have a problem or a question contact Jim.   

Dave

[Eric Krewson]

Every rifle I have built was either thin in this area, had a hole or two or had that piece of wood removed. When I inletted the lock if the mainspring blacked that little strip of wood it had to go. You don't want you mainspring touching wood. You may have to notch the barrel a little to accommodate the spring, I only had to to that one one build and not on the Kibler SMR I built.

[Mike Brooks]

Just leave it alone, it's fine.

[Jim Kibler]

Yeah, no worries at all.  This is designed to be like it is.  No corrective steps necessary.  Your not the only one to ask this question.  Can't tell you how many times customers have questioned this!

Good luck with your kit and thanks for the business.  If you have any questions as you proceed, just give us a call.

All the best,
Jim

[Obi2winky]

Yeah, no worries at all.  This is designed to be like it is.  No corrective steps necessary.  Your not the only one to ask this question.  Can't tell you how many times customers have questioned this!

Good luck with your kit and thanks for the business.  If you have any questions as you proceed, just give us a call.

All the best,
Jim

Thanks Jim, can’t wait to get started!

[gusd]

Just about every rifle I build has the same hole. Sometimes I bevel the main spring slightly for more clearance.
Gus

[Phil Neal]

Just finished my .54 Kibler Colonial, and I assure you, you have the finest kit available.  Have fun and enjoy the build.  I am now saving to purchase a SMR for my daughter.  Just an excuse to build another.

[Cory McArtor]

Just finished my .54 Kibler Colonial, and I assure you, you have the finest kit available.  Have fun and enjoy the build.  I am now saving to purchase a SMR for my daughter.  Just an excuse to build another.

I think I might need to build one of those for my daughter too

[Obi2winky]

Hi guys,
I've been slowly working on the kit and I've made some mistakes here and there but they haven't been that bad so far. until now...

As I was trying to drill through he front handguard tab-thing, my drill bit broke inside the stock. I tried to drill through from the lock side of the stock and that one broke as well... Probably a combination of poor quality drill bit kit and bad technique. Anyways, in the process, I made a ugly dent in the wood near the lock. Is there anything I can do about it beyond learn from it and just love it for what it is (my first build)? lol

Also, in the process of getting one of the drill bit fragments out, the pin hole in the stock ended up enlarging to a diameter somewhere in between 1/16 and 5/64. So I was thinking I can still salvage this if I can find a pin stock that's slightly larger. So far I'm only able to find it in 1/16" like Jim supplies with the kit. Any source of pin stocks that are slightly larger?

thanks in advance for any advice!
Towa

[c deperro]

If your new to this Jim put some videos together on how to assemble his kits. They are on line.

[Davemuzz]

thanks in advance for any advice!

Before you try anything with a heat application, just dab some water on\over the dent. If the wood fibers are not broken, a simple application of water will cause the wood to swell back to where it was.

If the fibers are broken\torn, you will likely need to take a different approach and I'll let those with experience tackle that.

[Dennis Glazener]

Pin stock availble from some craft stores as piano or music wire. Shoul ha e your size. Some hardwares carry pinao wire also drill rod in small size. Small finishing nails work but are softer than I like to use.
Dennis

[Lzymtlsmth]

For pins I use various sizes of hardware nails. I usually dip them in beeswax.
Don’t use nails made in China.

[Lzymtlsmth]

I use various size nails from hardware store.

[Tim Crosby]

 Just incase you didn't find them:

   http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=50252.msg498197#msg498197


  Tim C.

[smallpatch]

Any hobby store will have music wire in various sizes.  I use 5/64" a lot.  Bits flex a little less as well.

[WKevinD]

#49 bit, #2 finish nail.

Kevin

[G_T]

Try steaming the dent. Wet a patch of folded paper towel and place on the dent. Place the tip of a rather hot iron on the patch - don't press just make good contact. The steam will puff the wood back out quite nicely. It may take a few damp patches to get the job done.

Dents happen when building one of these things. Thankfully steaming them out generally works.

Gerald

[Eric Krewson]

I had a similar horror story trying to drill through the front lug on a iron mounted English fowler trigger guard. Having only drilled brass lugs I thought I could easily pop a hole through the lug, first drill bit, "POW" it broke way down in the hole, second drill bit from the other side "POW" way down in the hole.

The trigger guard was now pinned with broken drill bits and wasn't coming out. I had yet to shape the stock and worse I had put a temporary phillips head screw to hold the back part in place, It was under the bow and I couldn't get to it to remove it.

I finished shaping the entire underside of the gun around the trigger guard and wrist with a small riffler file and sandpaper, it took forever.

A few days later a guy on here said to go buy a 1/16" carbide tipped bit, put it in the hole and let it eat with only the weight of the drill motor pushing it down.

I was sceptical, but did as he said. After a full 15 minutes of running the drill I saw a metal chip come out of the hole, a couple minutes more and the bit went through the lug and I could remove the trigger guard.

I found the trigger guard steel was so hard that I struggled to drill it with a new bit in my drill press. I soldered on a new mild steel lug and completed the job.

[Obi2winky]

Thank you all for the advice! I've been watching Jim's videos religiously and I followed his steps. Unfortunately, no youtube instruction can cover over lack of talent, skill and experience....

I'll reply back with results!

[Doc]

Hey, take your time, and you will be well pleased.  A few character marks don't hurt anything.  Will acquire them with time anyhow.  I am assuming you are building this to shoot instead of just wall hang. 

Doc