Author Topic: Bark inclusions and knots (Read 3543 times)

Old Ford2 · « **on:** January 18, 2019, 05:15:36 PM »

What is the best fix to secure a slight bark inclusion, or knot in an otherwise beautiful stock.
The bark stain inclusion is what gives the particular piece of wood a signature of it's own as well as the knot which is located just below the cheek piece.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Fred

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #1 on:** January 18, 2019, 05:22:05 PM »

If you can stand the look of it just stain then apply super glue gel and sand out. If you want it gone, cut it out and fit a plug with the correct grain flow, Stain the cut out and the plug before you glue it in.

Bigmon · « **Reply #2 on:** January 18, 2019, 08:13:10 PM »

that is just great work. what a gift

Daryl · « **Reply #3 on:** January 18, 2019, 08:58:31 PM »

Yeah - what he said - and WOW, what a repair!

gusd · « **Reply #4 on:** January 18, 2019, 09:33:56 PM »

A friend has 5-6 Orig. Jaegers , they all have plugs put in. They didn't waste fancy wood. You can see the plugs but they matched
grain pretty good. Most were not as good a job as Mike did!
Gus

oldtravler61 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 18, 2019, 09:55:28 PM »

Mike after 400 or so guns. Your starting to get the hang of it... LOL.
SERIOUSLY wished I had a third of your talent... Oldtravler

EC121 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2019, 11:14:59 PM »

One time to fill a knot I stained some sawdust. Let it dry. Then mixed it with just enough epoxy to make a thick paste. That was pressed into the knot and let dry. When sanded down, you couldn't tell it from the rest of the knot. After I stained the stock the same as the sawdust color, it looked like a solid knot. Wood glue would probably do the same thing. It would just take a little longer to dry.

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #7 on:** January 19, 2019, 12:00:56 AM »

I just leave them as is and fill them with black wax when the rifle is finished. Those things are just a part of working with wood. The original builders would have worked around them or left them. Patches usually look worse than just leaving them.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #8 on:** January 19, 2019, 01:14:46 AM »

I don't like this one little bit because it reminds me of how limited
my wood working skills really are.

Bob Roller

TommyG · « **Reply #9 on:** January 19, 2019, 04:36:18 AM »

I recently had one on a fowler I'm building. On the lower forestock right next to the barrel channel of all places. It was a small dot when the blank was full width. Once I roughed it down to the 1/8" + beside the barrel, it turned into a crater. I gently used a needle file to get rid of any loose debris around/inside the knot, then made a plug from the slabbed off side. Mixed some gorilla epoxy with a bit of maple dust and glued it in. Now hopefully when I round the forestock it will not be an issue. I also hope once I finish that it will blend well.

Old Ford2 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 19, 2019, 03:15:54 PM »

Hi,
Thank you for your valued replies.
Fred

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #11 on:** January 19, 2019, 04:11:34 PM »

Quote from: TommyG on January 19, 2019, 04:36:18 AM

I recently had one on a fowler I'm building. On the lower forestock right next to the barrel channel of all places. It was a small dot when the blank was full width. Once I roughed it down to the 1/8" + beside the barrel, it turned into a crater. I gently used a needle file to get rid of any loose debris around/inside the knot, then made a plug from the slabbed off side. Mixed some gorilla epoxy with a bit of maple dust and glued it in. Now hopefully when I round the forestock it will not be an issue. I also hope once I finish that it will blend well.

When you plug like that you need to stain the surrounding area and the plug before you glue it in. No need for sawdust, unless it's stained too you're going to see it.

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #12 on:** January 19, 2019, 06:20:12 PM »

What type of stain would you recommend for the glue Mike? I use aquafortis on Maple, nothing on walnut. I have used superglue on some patches as it comes out black, plain wood glue tends to be light.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #13 on:** January 20, 2019, 12:05:37 AM »

Quote from: Eric Krewson on January 19, 2019, 06:20:12 PM

What type of stain would you recommend for the glue Mike? I use aquafortis on Maple, nothing on walnut. I have used superglue on some patches as it comes out black, plain wood glue tends to be light.

I don't stain the glue, I stain the surrounding wood and plug before I glue . I use something dark reddish...or anything that's handy. Easy to hide dark lines, hard to hide white lines.

TommyG · « **Reply #14 on:** January 20, 2019, 01:53:19 AM »

Mike, Thanks for the tip. I will be sure to do that next time. My biggest concern is when I round the forestock to that almost knife edge next to the barrel. It looks like it might lay open that knot pretty good and expose much of the plug. I'm wondering if at that point I could use a drop of dark stain on a touch up brush to blend it. I will be final finishing with ferric nitrate.

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #15 on:** January 20, 2019, 03:09:41 AM »

I use the touch-up brush after the gun is finished then put a couple of coats of finish over my touchup to lock the stain in place. I use leather dye mostly.

Others probably have a better way.

I mentioned staining glue earlier. I use a glue in bow making called unibond, similar to the old resorcinol. It comes with two different color hardeners, one light and one dark, I like the dark. This glue is bombproof and will hold together on a flexing bow limb.

I mixed up some unibond today to glue in a few shims in on a poorly shaped precarve, this is the dark.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #16 on:** January 20, 2019, 05:40:55 PM »

I gotta keep real low tech or things go awry.

Joe S · « **Reply #17 on:** January 20, 2019, 06:21:56 PM »

I've had good results mixing a little burnt umber into the glue. I've done this with both Titebond and epoxy.

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #18 on:** January 21, 2019, 04:23:17 AM »

I’ve used artists oil paint to color match epoxy to different stockwoods for years. There are so many varieties of English walnut that just plain brown won’t work most of the time.

Greg

redheart · « **Reply #19 on:** January 21, 2019, 07:59:19 PM »

Quote from: Eric Krewson on January 20, 2019, 03:09:41 AM

I use the touch-up brush after the gun is finished then put a couple of coats of finish over my touchup to lock the stain in place. I use leather dye mostly.

Others probably have a better way.

I mentioned staining glue earlier. I use a glue in bow making called unibond, similar to the old resorcinol. It comes with two different color hardeners, one light and one dark, I like the dark. This glue is bombproof and will hold together on a flexing bow limb.

I mixed up some unibond today to glue in a few shims in on a poorly shaped precarve, this is the dark.

Eric,
Which of the many Unibond products do you use?

jerrywh · « **Reply #20 on:** January 21, 2019, 08:53:46 PM »

Mike Brooks
That is a beautiful job you did on that repair. As I said before what makes a master is knowing how to fix mistakes and problems the correct way. Your a master no doubt.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #21 on:** January 21, 2019, 08:55:35 PM »

Quote from: jerrywh on January 21, 2019, 08:53:46 PM

Mike Brooks
That is a beautiful job you did on that repair. As I said before what makes a master is knowing how to fix mistakes and problems the correct way. Your a master no doubt.

I have pulled off a couple miracle repairs, that's one of them. Sure didn't want to start over is why I did it.

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #22 on:** January 21, 2019, 09:08:49 PM »

Unibond 800, I glued some wedges in a couple of days ago with it that didn't stick well. I think I forced the wedges in too tightly between the tang and wood and starved the glue joint.

redheart · « **Reply #23 on:** January 22, 2019, 12:53:40 AM »

Many thanks Eric!

redheart · « **Reply #24 on:** January 22, 2019, 01:01:54 AM »

Quote from: Mike Brooks on January 21, 2019, 08:55:35 PM

Quote from: jerrywh on January 21, 2019, 08:53:46 PM
Mike Brooks
That is a beautiful job you did on that repair. As I said before what makes a master is knowing how to fix mistakes and problems the correct way. Your a master no doubt.

I have pulled off a couple miracle repairs, that's one of them. Sure didn't want to start over is why I did it.

][/Mike,
Did you use elliptical shaped plugs to do this miracle repair.
I only ask because I can't see a trace of any repair to help figure how you did it.

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Author Topic: Bark inclusions and knots (Read 3543 times)

Joe S