removing breech plug from CVA kentucky rifle barrel

[draken]

My Granddaughter's fiancé brought this gun to me, asking if I'd check it out.  He said the gun was given to him by a relative, adding  that it probably hadn't been fired in thirty years.  The bore is pretty rusty, and  I'd like to pull the breech plug for a better look, but therein lies the problem. I've filled the barrel with Liquid Wrench and left it standing upright for a week but it wouldn't budge.  I filled the bore with PB Blaster with same results.  I've completely filled the bore with water and left it overnight in the freezer, the putting it in the vise and heating the plug with a torch.  That didn't work either, and I've come to the conclusion that
it never will break loose.

Am I correct in assuming this, or is there something I haven't tried yet. Frankly the gun isn't worth the trouble, but it's a family thang.

[Shovelbuck]

If it's a cap lock, the drum needs to be pulled first as it goes through the breech threads. If flint, the liner must be removed. Even with that , the plugs are TIGHT!!!!! Most people will say it can't be done although i've done several.

[Daryl]

ATF and Acetone is the best penetrating 'solvent', easily 3 times better than Liquid Wrench.
A little heat might be needed as well. Submerging the back end of the barrel in the solvent, with some on the
inside as well will likely help. After a few days, remove, wipe it off, pour out the solvent from inside the tube,
remove the drum or vent, then heat with a torch on the outside and re-try.

[rfd]

poorly maintained barrels - the bane of us all.  years ago i was given a used pedersoli kentucky that was never cleaned properly and its patent breech plug was literally welded to the barrel.  i tried Everything to pull that plug.  futile.  it became a wall hanger.  i suspect this might be case with this CVA, as well.  not the gun's fault ...

[Turtle]

 YES, you have to remove the nipple/touchhole first! I learned that the hard way!

[rfd]

YES, you have to remove the nipple/touchhole first! I learned that the hard way!

depends on the patent plug design and if the touch hole/bolster is in plug threads or not.

[draken]

First of all, thanks guy's for all your input.   This particular plug has no bolster, but rather forged as part of the plug itself, such as one would find on a hooked breech gun except the tang is an integral part of the plug.  I'm sure the plug was removable when the gun was new, but at one time or another we've probably all
run into someone who thinks a couple of squirts of WD-40 down the barrel of a black powder gun is all it takes.

[shifty]

First of all, thanks guy's for all your input.   This particular plug has no bolster, but rather forged as part of the plug itself, such as one would find on a hooked breech gun except the tang is an integral part of the plug.  I'm sure the plug was removable when the gun was new, but at one time or another we've probably all
run into someone who thinks a couple of squirts of WD-40 down the barrel of a black powder gun is all it takes.

   My old CVA Kentucky rifle does not have that type breech,it is the conventional breech plug with a standard type drum. Are you sure your rifle is a CVA Kentucky rifle or a Kentuckian this rifle was made in Italy not by CVA and has a unique style of drum that looks like a snail but is not integral to the breech plug. Would it be possible for you to post a picture of your rifle highlighting the breech area.

[Hungry Horse]

I tend to agree with Shifty, I’ve never seen a CVA rifle that didn’t have their drum, and nipple, through the breechplug breaching system. Some pictures of this gun would help a lot.

  Hungry Horse

[shifty]

     Draken here is a picture of a old CVA Kentucky rifle is your different than this one.

[Scota4570]

Unless you have a real barrel vice, fitted blocks, rosin, a plug wrench, cheater bar, and experience, your chances of success are near zero.  You will just make a mess with a machinist vice and a cresent wrench.

Best to clean it from the muzzle and use a bobber light to see the bore.

Evapo-rust works really well.  It will not harm intact steel.  Fill the barrel, wait, scrub with steel wool,  repeat.

[Ky-Flinter]

     Draken here is a picture of a old CVA Kentucky rifle is your different than this one.

That looks like every CVA Kentucky I've ever seen.  The drum will have about an inch+ of threads that go thru the breech plug and into a recess in the barrel on the far side.  This must be removed first, then maybe the breech plug can be removed.  Another point to remember if you are able to remove the plug, it is a bear getting all that indexed back to the exact same spot so it can be reassembled.

I'm with Scota.  Fill'er up with Evap-o-rust and see what's left.

-Ron

[shifty]

  Ron, The CVA Kentucky is different than the other CVA's like the Hawken and the Plains rifle .The Kentucky rifle has a regular breech plug and regular drum that screws into the barrel ahead of the breech plug.I have had the one pictured apart several times ,i built it from a kit when they first came out (when ever that was) they where pretty good shooters. I have debreeched the CVA Hawken also but will never do that again. For the money the old CVS rifles & Traditions where pretty good they made good hunting guns after you learned them.
  I don't want to remove the Drum  on this one to display it's been in there too long and it just sits in the corner now.

[Ky-Flinter]

Thanks Shifty.  It is a good day when you learn something new.  Your reply just turned the light on for me.  If a fella is determined to remove the breech plug of his CVA, but doesn't know which breech he has, it won't hurt anything to remove the drum first, then have a go at the breech plug.  And you are right about them being good shooters, if the owner took proper care of them.

-Ron

[draken]

Did a lot of research, looking for a CVA with a different style breech plug and everybody who never saw anything other than a bolster on a CVA Kentucky are absolutely correct!   
 I don't know what I've got here but it isn't a CVA.   
Over the years I've seen a lot of "Kentucky rifles", all with two piece stocks some with a wide brass "band aid" covering the wood joint, others with a brass spacer. They all looked the same and  I labeled them all CVA.
 
There are no stampings on this gun to identify who it came from, although "JAPAN' is stamped on the back side of the lock plate.  I have couple of pictures of the breech, but seem I've forgotten how to post them.

[moleeyes36]

There are no stampings on this gun to identify who it came from, although "JAPAN' is stamped on the back side of the lock plate.

Could it possibly be a Maruku (sp)?  Dixie Gun Works and some others I believe imported a lot of those guns several years ago.

Mole Eyes

[WadePatton]

...  I have couple of pictures of the breech, but seem I've forgotten how to post them.

PIcs have changed here.  Now we don't have to have hosting site, and can directly upload them to ALR.  BUT there's this hinky drag/drop uploading feature that adds in some random non-sense links to whatever you upload when you drag/drop.

I never drag/drop, but look for "You can also browse from your computer or add image URLs."  Select "browse from you computer" to get conventional windows with manual navigation to select your images.

Then beware of "extra links" added to your uploads.  You can edit them out no problem. I would never click on them to follow, don't understand their existence, so delete without remorse.

IF YOU DON'T see "Add image to post" below this reply window, then you've got to change your "style" of forum page--and that's another lesson.

HTH.  Here's the window you should see after hitting "Add image to post":










Or you can resize windows such that you can drag and drop--just remember to look for the bogus link and delete it.  I think it's more likely to happen with drag/drop operations, but havn't really studied it.   If you've been paying attention, you've see 'em, and now you know how they get on our pages.

[Ky-Flinter]

Nice tutorial Wade.  Thanks for posting.  Those goofy links are usually to poetry sites.  Go figure.    Guess they figure we need some culturin'.

-Ron

[rfd]

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