Everything was going great

[Nordnecker]

Until it wasn't.
Three days ago, I got my lock inlet and trigger pinned and working. I was then able to determine where to cut the stock so I could start inletting the buttplate. I checked my measurements several times. Yeah, that's it. I started inletting but ran out of time. I don't have much left in me when I get home from work during the week and mostly just look things over and check measurements, etc, in preperation for the weekend.
My biggest concern was getting the sideplate shaped and filed so it would cover the pin for the trigger. The triger pull is OK, but could maybe be a little lighter. I was pondering this very thing when I realized re-pinning the trigger would shorten the LOP- just a little. Then I realized that the whole trigger bar should have been shaped a little differently, changing the whole attitude of the trigger. Actually, it would be a big improvement. Yes, that's what I'll do. Nope, can't do that- That will change the LOP too much. Uh, actually, If I had done it like I should have, The buttstock would have a better shape. DOH, It's too late now. Buttstock is too short if I move the trigger back.
So to my eye, the whole stock is WRONG, and it's all because the trigger bar wasn't shaped right.

[Eric Krewson]

On my first gun I shaped the stock and positioned the lock after taking measurements from a TOW Beck illustrated plan. I had cut off part of the stock to achieve my length of pull but left a little extra for some unknown reason.

When I positioned my trigger to hit the sear correctly I realized the lock on the plan and my lock had completely different sear positions, mine was a full inch further back. This changed my measured length of pull to around 12.5", yikes!

I checked my extra wood and found to my relief if I was very careful in my buttplate inletting I could get my intended 13.5 length of pull but not a micron more.

On later builds my trigger and lock are in and functioning before I determine my length of pull.

[Long John]

Friend,

Before you go too far on this consider that much of the force necessary to get the trigger to trip the lock is due to friction in the lock.  Tuning the sear and sear spring can go a loooong way to easing up trigger pull.  Today's lock makers generally make the locks with very strong sear springs.  This means that you need a strong force on the trigger.  Filing a few thousandths of an inch off the end of the sear spring and polishing it and the sear down to 600 grit will help a lot.

Good Luck

JMC
John Cholin

[Nordnecker]

Thanks to both of you for your input.
After stewing over this for the last 24 hrs, it's not a total loss.
Just to re-state, the trigger was in and working when I cut the stock off. Things just looked a little odd and I was trying to figure out why. If the trigger bar had been shaped like the pencil lines show below, everything would have changed.

This would keep the pivot pin and the length to sear exactly the same but would move the trigger shoe back about a half an inch. This would have changed the position of the trigger guard and left more wood at the rear of the buttstock while keeping the LOP the same.
It's difficult to describe and so many variables come into play that it's probably a waste of time trying. Or maybe a change like this would make for a mushy, long trigger pull. I'm still gonna end up with a LOP about 13 5/8".

[Nordnecker]

This shows the issue.

My stock is laying on top of the original gun. See the trigger underneath.

[bob in the woods]

Just make a new trigger. Shift the pin area up and a bit forward. The actual "trigger" portion can remain in the same location so your LOP won't change. Triggers aren't difficult to make. I think they are a real enjoyable part of a build.

[Robby]

You can file off the miscalculation and silver solder a new blank on your trigger blade. you save the trigger and you can reposition it wherever you want.
Robby

[Long John]

Friend,

Listen to Bob - he is in the woods for a reason!

Just make a new trigger!  They are NOT all that hard to make and when you make your own it gives you complete freedom to make it so it is exactly what you need and want.  I haven't bought a trigger in decades.  I generally start with mild steel stock I pick up at Home Depot.  They got a rack full of the stuff.

I generally design my trigger so the pivot is on a line between the sear bar and the sear screw about 5/16" forward of the sear bar.

Here is you opportunity to be a gunmaker rather than a gun assembler.  Have some fun!

Best Regards,

JMC
John Cholin

[Cades Cove Fiddler]

  ... some great advice already given,... perhaps dust-off that Fender dobro, slide out a few tunes and mull options over would help much,... !!! .... best wishes,... Cades Cove Fiddler,.... 

[Bob Roller]

... some great advice already given,... perhaps dust-off that Fender dobro, slide out a few tunes and mull options over would help much,... !!! .... best wishes,... Cades Cove Fiddler,....

The Dobro.Pull up "Hide and Seek"by Jerrry Douglas and hear one of the best.

Bob Roller

[Robby]

I assumed he made the trigger.
Robby

[Nordnecker]

Yeah, I've made 2 wrong ones already.

[bob in the woods]

This is just one of the many reasons I draw everything out on paper first. It's a lot easier to erase . redraw and scratch with a pencil than cut, file , chisel, and cry     Cheaper, too !

[Long John]

I have a piece of wire hanging from a nail in the wall in the corner of my basement that I call my little shop.  It must have a dozen triggers hanging on it, some close and some waaaaaay-off.  That's how you learn!  And that's what makes it fun!

JMC
John Cholin

[Robby]

There is also lots to learn fixing what you already have. Satisfaction too.
Robby

[bob in the woods]

I know I just wrote about the importance of drawing things out, but triggers are one of those things where adjustments are sometimes minuscule , but necessary for tuning to your exact wants. It doesn't take much convincing for me to make a different one if I think it would be better. Again, one of the fun parts of build.  Most who handle my rifle reconsider their request for a set trigger, especially on hunting rifles.  It takes a bit of fiddling, but is well worth the time and effort.

[Nordnecker]

Sometimes I suffer from analysis paralysis. It really is more of a cosmetic issue than anything else. The original gun has a LOP of 14 1/4". My intention from the start was to shorten it to 13 3/4"etc. I kept all lines the same and just moved the buttplate forward a half inch. This makes the line from butt to comb shorter. It also makes the buttplate shorter from heal to toe, by about 1/2", quite a bit.
Now, if you planned all of this, I suppose you could keep the buttplate the same depth and maybe keep the comb line a little longer- but that would change the overall shape of the stock, too.
But what if a customer brought gun to you and said, I want you to cut a half inch off the butt and reuse the buttplate. You'd end up with a much shorter combline and a shorter buttplate.
That's about where I am with this. There are too many variables. I don't know the "right" answer. I'm gonna keep plugging forward and when the whole stock is rounded off and shaped if it looks terrible I'll start all over. Right?

[ron w]

I see nothing wrong with silver soldering a blank onto your existing trigger rather than making a whole new one. the best part is that by doing that, you don't have to "settle" for what you know doesn't fit your desires to build your gun the way you think is right.

[Nordnecker]

Please allow me to explain.  You guys are right. A new or modified trigger is possible.  But all things considered I cannot put the wood back on the stock. The stock shape won't change.  If I could go back I would.  I'm not crying over it. Thank you all for your thoughtful suggestions.