Sawing antler for a nose cap

[Roger B]

Hi guys;
So I have this Kibler SMR kit that I want to fancy up a bit & thought I might make an antler nose cap. You can saw antler with any saw, but I'm trying to decide how to saw in a barrel channel in the blank. I'm thinking I could rough it in with a coping saw and then file and send the inlet to final dimensions.  Does anyone know a better method?
Roger B.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

When cutting antler I use a hacksaw.  For hollowing out the inside surface I would probably use a Dremel tool.  Wear a dust mask.

Cory Joe Stewart

[Mike Brooks]

Not that it matters, but I really dislike the look of an antler nose cap. Or an antler anything else. White just isn't a great color on a longrifle. And not that it matters again, it's very contemporary. But, I suppose there are those that think it is very cool.
But, I'd probably go after it with a hack saw if I were going to cut up antler. I'd actually consider a cow shin bone, at least it darkens and mellows some with age. In moments of pure insanity I've often considered repoping the old bone mounted gun that's in some books.

[Roger B]

You're right Mike!  Just thinking.... an engraved antler or bone cap would be unique, but not PC.  I like PC. 
Roger B.

[Hungry Horse]

Antler is almost always very porous in the middle, which makes it hard to get a good looking cap from it. It quite brittle as well.
 On the other hand I have handled a Slotter&Co. percussion rifle, in a local collection that was totally fitted in ivory. It was refitted when the original owner went to Alaska during the gold rush. It appears the original furniture was copied in ivory.

 Hungry Horse

[Joe S]

Grinslade has a picture of a New England fowler with ivory RR pipes and side plate. However, if you make a bone side plate, you can expect Mike to complain. Been there. Done that.

As far as your nose cap goes, I sincerely doubt that we can think of anything to do to a flintlock that hasn't already been done. If it appeals to you, do it. I think it might look nice in a few years after the whiteness has mellowed out some.

[Mike Brooks]

I guess I should have stated "with inevitable exceptions". I'd make it out of aluminum, that was done too. I use Budweiser cans for inlay material when I need aluminum stock.


BTW, were discussing antler originally, not ivory or bone. If we're going to chat up ivory I can point out guns that are stocked entirely of ivory. I have also see guns stocked completely in tortoise shell overlay.


I suppose that in continental Europe if you look long enough you'll find an antler nose cap.


I have seen chairs made entirely of elk antlers but you would have to admit that is quite rare and wood is a bit more common.....

 I recall standing next to H. House a decade or two ago when he was looking at gun # 196 in Ivey's book on NC rifles. He told me how happy he was to see it had a bone heal plate as he'd never seen an old gun with one and he'd made a couple hundred guns with bone heal plates. Which just goes to show, sooner or later what you would like to see will eventually show up.

[Joe S]

There was a guy who made a chair for Teddy Roosevelt out of grizzly bears. Dead grizzly bears, that is. But we are getting off topic, and if we don't get back to antler nose caps PDQ, Dennis is going to get after us.

[hanshi]

I've never tried antler for a nose cap; but use coping saws and hacksaws to cut both antler and bone.  Other than powder measures & such, I've only used antler to make tips for ramrods; again probably not pc but nice looking.

[Clear Spring Armory]

I made a rifle a few years ago with antler and horn mounts and inlays. The matter of taste and historical correctness aside, its hard to do from a practical point of view. As some have mentioned, its brittle, porus stuff. My best advise is find a piece that is very close to finished dimensions. That way it will retain the hard outer surface. The butt plate I made came out very porus after the filing was done. But the other things, rod pipes and heel extension came out very nice, no porosity. I started with pieces that were really close to the shape I needed and didn't get into the inner core with the filing. Of course, if you want to leave the outside raw, all this is a given. I will tell you, the stuff can and will move and crack as its worked sometimes. The horn I used warped bad over night. Plan on using more fasteners than usual. Of course, nose caps are usually epoxied, so that will help. I wanted an antler cap, but chickened out and poured it. And id plan on using a dremel after hogging out what I could with hack and jewlers saw. A course round wrasp would work too, but I'd be afraid the vise jaws may break the antler after it got so thin.

[Roger B]

I think I'm convinced.  I'm going to pass on antler and pour a cap.
Roger B.

[Stophel]

My limited experience with working with antler is that it is very unstable when it's cut.  I wanted to make a patch box lid, and after I cut it, it curled up like a banana.