Locks from the lock master...Robert Roller

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Locks from the lock master...this is the title I gave this thread - not Bob's!

Here are two locks Bob asked me to put up on the site for your perusal.  Lovely work, as usual.

[Roger B]

I want the early/engraved one on the right. I have three of Bob's locks and love em all.
Roger B.

[mony]

Thanks for the pics. I’ll take the plain one one on the left, since it isn’t spoken for. . . .
Mr. Roller’s routine work is something to which I could only aspire. Not even on my best day. Always a pleasure to view his work. I just received a set of triggers from him today. I think I’ll go look at them some more. . .

[Bob Roller]

Taylor,
Once again,many thanks for posting these. They were the last caplocks I made
and they now reside in Texas with a USN retired pilot.The "engraved" one is
a very close copy of a J&S lock that started as a kit by a man whose last name
was Morgan,perhaps William Morgan.The other is one of fantasy,an English style
mechanism in a Late S.Hawken plate with Davis Hawken hammer.These English
type internals offered a rigidity and smoothness unsurpassed if they are fit as
they should be.
I had only ONE J&S plate and hammer and I made these two and a flintlock
for the Texas customer and now he wants triggers like everyone else.
After I get the triggers ready I will decide if any more locks will come from
my shop..Like others on this great forum,I am aging out and will be 83 on
the 27th of this month.

Bob Roller

[Pukka Bundook]

Very very nice clean work Bob. 

Very nice to get a look at these locks!

[tlallijr]

Bob, Very nice work ! I see the fantasy lock has no sear screw, the sear seems to have a lock and bridal shaft ?  Tony

[Bob Roller]

Bob, Very nice work ! I see the fantasy lock has no sear screw, the sear seems to have a lock and bridal shaft ?  Tony

Tony,
That mechanism is one I have made a number of but none were for anyone in the USA.
They were all schuetzen locks for a shop in Mayen/Hausen Germany. TaylorSapergia's
Lang 16 bore rifle uses this same system,the sear on a shaft and the bridle on 3 posts
Very smooth and fast. I have also made 4 post bridles for even fancier locks but plan
no more of them.I am tired of lock work and hope to finish the last 4 or 5 I agreed to
make..
Bob Roller

[tlallijr]

 Thanks Bob, I can see why the sear needs a good fit and when done properly I'm guessing that type of sear set up reduces the torque making the lock real smooth.

[Justin Urbantas]

I have heard the best things about your work, Bob, and would like to be the first in line for one of your flintlocks if you decide to make any more. 

Taylor,
Once again,many thanks for posting these. They were the last caplocks I made
and they now reside in Texas with a USN retired pilot.The "engraved" one is
a very close copy of a J&S lock that started as a kit by a man whose last name
was Morgan,perhaps William Morgan.The other is one of fantasy,an English style
mechanism in a Late S.Hawken plate with Davis Hawken hammer.These English
type internals offered a rigidity and smoothness unsurpassed if they are fit as
they should be.
I had only ONE J&S plate and hammer and I made these two and a flintlock
for the Texas customer and now he wants triggers like everyone else.
After I get the triggers ready I will decide if any more locks will come from
my shop..Like others on this great forum,I am aging out and will be 83 on
the 27th of this month.

Bob Roller

[David Rase]

If I had a dime for every time someone said "put me on your list Bob," I would have enough money to by one of Bob's locks and maybe even a trigger.
David 

[Bob Roller]

Thanks Bob, I can see why the sear needs a good fit and when done properly I'm guessing that type of sear set up reduces the torque making the lock real smooth.

The main advantage is the full cock notch doesn't have to be any deeper than a good scratch.
I use .1094 polished drill rod thru a REAMED .110 hole. The sear is relieved or "ghosted" on the
back side. The torque is supplied by the mainspring and the link that hooks it to the tumbler.
Making this style of lock is more labor intensive than the mechanism shown in the J&S lock
but the J&S as I made it is better than the old ones from Goulcher and others of that time
period.Few old American guns had a quality lock and if they do they are usually on a target
rifle from the New England states such as N.G.Whitmore from Potsdam,NY.

Bob Roller

[Rolf]

Thanks Bob, I can see why the sear needs a good fit and when done properly I'm guessing that type of sear set up reduces the torque making the lock real smooth.

The main advantage is the full cock notch doesn't have to be any deeper than a good scratch.
I use .1094 polished drill rod thru a REAMED .110 hole. The sear is relieved or "ghosted" on the
back side. The torque is supplied by the mainspring and the link that hooks it to the tumbler.
Making this style of lock is more labor intensive than the mechanism shown in the J&S lock
but the J&S as I made it is better than the old ones from Goulcher and others of that time
period.Few old American guns had a quality lock and if they do they are usually on a target
rifle from the New England states such as N.G.Whitmore from Potsdam,NY.

Bob Roller

I'm trying to learn more about Lock making. Have a few questions.

1) What is a ghosted sear?

2) Did you use a sprial reamer or a straigth fluted?

3)Was the reamer turned by hand or by mill?

4) Does the pin stand still and thee sear rotate?

5) Is the bridel hole and the lockplate hole reamed?

6)What keeps the pin from falling out?

Best regards
Rolf

[Bob Roller]

Rolf,
A "ghosted"sear has metal removed so it can not touch the lock plate except for
the area where the pin or sear screw goes thru.
I use a straight reamer .110 diameter and squirt threading fluid on it during the
reaming.A dry reamer will leave an oversize hole.The pin in all locks I made are
a .1094 polished drill rod,USA 0-1.I have no problem with spiral reamers and use
them if I have them.
The reamer is turned by a heavy drill press at 600RPM.
The pin may stay still,maybe not but I have never had one come out in use and
I never look to see if the pin moves.
The hole in the plate and the bridle are both reamed using the same method as
described above.
 There is only .0004* between the diameter of the pin and the hole and I think
the pressure from the sear spring will hold it from escaping.
I have made around 100 locks of Schuetzen and English style** with this mechanism
and nobody has even mentioned the pin trying to move in either direction.
I hope this helps.

Bob Roller
*4/10,000ths of an inch.
** Most of the English style locks were "4 pin"(screws).

[Rolf]

Thank you for Your answers ,Bob.

Best regards
Rolf