Author Topic: Best glue for this break?  (Read 2863 times)

Davemuzz

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Best glue for this break?
« on: March 06, 2019, 10:54:08 PM »
I've done some research on glue types, and I'm at a stopping point. The pic's below show the stock break in a pistol that I am re-doing. Now, the first fix back in 2010 I used just a wood glue and two pins. But I've re-shaped the stock and one pin was filed out, and the other I can still use. But I have room to drill one more pin hole inside the barrel channel to help support this crack.

Initially I was going to used wood glue.....but then since the break is now "clean" I was considering using Accraglass. I've used Accraglass on other repairs and it's very strong.

However, I've been reading about Titebond Hide Glue. Then I believe there is a Hide Glue II and another III. So....I'm asking for some sound advice here and which product would you used if you were repairing this?

Thanks very much.  Dave


Offline redheart

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2019, 11:05:28 PM »
Accraglas would be good or Accraglass gel because it won't run out.
I'd add a couple of small hidden steel pins made from the fluted portion of cheap Chinese drill bits.
The flutes allow the glue to flow into the holes.

Offline jerrywh

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2019, 11:11:44 PM »
 There are a lot of good reliable glues available today but what is just as important is hiding the joint. So then you have to consider what kind of wood this is  .It looks like walnut if it is it is much easier to hide the joint. If it is walnut I would use super glue or titebond wood glue. I would not use acraglass. Walnut does not require staining before gluing. Both of these glues are stronger than the wood
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Davemuzz

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2019, 11:28:17 PM »
The wood is walnut.

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2019, 11:43:59 PM »
I would use Titebond II it is waterproof not water resistant like regular Titebond. Properly done it will never break in the same crack!
Dennis
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Offline WKevinD

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2019, 11:55:34 PM »
Titebond II would be my choice. Prep the surface to be joined with a wipe of acetone (recommended for oily woods) and coat the barrel with paste wax or wrap in thin plastic wrap so that it can be clamped with the barrel in place(wrapped with rubber bands would also be my choice)

Kevin
« Last Edit: March 07, 2019, 12:04:00 AM by burnt »
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Offline Jeff Durnell

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2019, 11:57:13 PM »
To be honest, I'd have to fit the pieces together myself and study it in person before I made a final decision. Looks like a bad angle of grain there. Looks like the lock plate near the bolt may put side pressure against it. Thinking I might lean toward my best epoxy.

Offline Roger B

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2019, 12:18:20 AM »
I've used both Titebond & Accraglas.  I don't know about Titebond, but with slow set, clear, epoxy, if you stain the crack with whatever you're going to stain the rest of the stock with before gluing, it will do a pretty good job of hiding the crack or gap. I know.  I break a lot of stuff :o.
Roger B.
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Offline Daryl

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2019, 12:36:43 AM »
I would likely use an epoxy as well, but Titebond 11 will work just fine.
The wood glues, even carpenter wood glue is stronger than the wood itself
in shear and pull strength.
 I have never heard of Titebond hide glue.
Daryl

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Offline smallpatch

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2019, 01:30:02 AM »
Titebond and pins.  I use 6/32 screws.  The threads make it hold better.
In His grip,

Dane

Offline David Rase

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2019, 01:35:32 AM »
Titebond 3 would be my choice.
David

Offline bob in the woods

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #11 on: March 07, 2019, 01:43:13 AM »
I use titebond for my instruments , but I have made a number of outdoor signs using titebond 3, and they have held up for years.  The joints are stronger than the wood itself.  That would be my choice for this repair. It blends in extremely well.

Offline Robby

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #12 on: March 07, 2019, 01:45:46 AM »
I've made my own, but this stuff is really good.
https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-HIDEGL.XX/Hide_Glue
Robin
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Offline Nhgrants

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2019, 02:12:41 AM »
I had thought that hide glue is not water resistant.  I tried facing a bow with rawhide glued on with hide glue.
The glue worked great but I never exposed it to rain as I thought I read that in one of the bow making books
That the facing May come off if it got wet.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I also thought a benefit of using hide glue on furniture joinery was that you can un glue and disassemble the joint with steam to make repairs. Again I could be wrong.

Offline oldtravler61

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #14 on: March 07, 2019, 03:31:59 AM »
  Being an expert at cracking and breaking things of wood. I would use Titebond 3 wood glue. It is unbelievably strong glue..!
  Oldtravler

ron w

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2019, 05:03:12 AM »
titebond or any other aliphatic wood glue is going to reqire clamping to reach full strength. that break is a bad spot to clamp decently. acraglass or any epoxy doens not require clamping and clamping actually is detrimental to gluing with epoxy. i'd use acraglass.

Davemuzz

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2019, 06:00:41 AM »
I can\did get a clamp on the crack. I went to my local hardware and got Titebond wood glue....slathered up both pieces along with the one existing pin and it came out very well. Tomorrow I will drill for a second pin. When I'm done I'll post the outcome.

I do thank all of you for your input. I believe this pistol will be just fine with this repair.

Again, Thanks!!

Dave

Offline David Rase

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #17 on: March 07, 2019, 06:00:50 AM »
There is also a Titebond 2 dark made specifically for walnut and other dark woods.
David

Offline G_T

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #18 on: March 07, 2019, 07:01:15 AM »
If the grain in the wrist angle also has that crazy runout angle, I'd be tempted to bury a steel pin or a correctly oriented hardwood dowel  through the wrist into the grip, starting at the back of the barrel inlet, keeping it hidden. YMMV.

Gerald

Offline Curtis

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #19 on: March 07, 2019, 07:56:13 AM »
There is also a Titebond 2 dark made specifically for walnut and other dark woods.
David

+2 what David said!  That is what I would use for walnut. If you do a good job of clamping it, the joint will be stronger than the wood.

Curtis
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Offline Robby

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #20 on: March 07, 2019, 02:33:05 PM »
I had thought that hide glue is not water resistant.  I tried facing a bow with rawhide glued on with hide glue.
The glue worked great but I never exposed it to rain as I thought I read that in one of the bow making books
That the facing May come off if it got wet.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I also thought a benefit of using hide glue on furniture joinery was that you can un glue and disassemble the joint with steam to make repairs. Again I could be wrong.

Yep, that's all true. The benefit of using it on your sinew backed bow is that it can be recovered if the bow breaks. It is a good time natural tested adhesive. Just offering up an alternative.
Robby
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ron w

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #21 on: March 07, 2019, 04:23:39 PM »
being in archery all my life and knowing several bowyers and a few good gunsmiths,..... I have to say that none of them use anything but some brand of epoxy based adhesive for all of their gluing tasks, acra-glass being the most common as there is usually always some around their shop....….take it for what it's worth.

Offline gusd

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #22 on: March 07, 2019, 04:41:08 PM »
Ron, most bowers use Smooth-on Epoxy on laminated bows. EA-40
Gus

Offline alacran

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #23 on: March 07, 2019, 04:52:51 PM »
I've used TiteBond 2 for about as long as it has been on the market. It is an excellent glue if you can apply enough clamping pressure.
The only drawback that I have found with it here in the Southwest, as the wood shrinks the glue leaves a glue line proud of the surface.
I have used titebond 3 and really like it better than TiteBond 2. It has a longer working time and is less viscous than TB 2. It supposedly has gap filling qualities. I just jointed some Hickory boards together and have not seen the fore mentioned problem.
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ron w

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Re: Best glue for this break?
« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2019, 05:01:45 PM »
gsud,....you have to re-read my post,.... I said,... they " none of them use anything BUT some brand of epoxy"....meaning, they all use some brand of epoxy.   is ideal for bow construction because it is designed to be spread like butter for gluing larger flat surfaces and has an element of elasticity without creep to it, for use where flexibility is of utmost importance to joint stability. there was no reason to specify brand names in my post because the application doesn't typify the requirements of a bow. since it is mentioned,....EA40 will work fine as a static bonder as well as an elastic bonder . i tried to suggest a more typical epoxy because EA40 is a specialized product, not commonly found in any hardware store and this application fits a general epoxy, like accra-glass, or even one of the faster cure epoxies found in big box stores all over the place just fine.  I've common fast cure epoxies on all sorts of small wood repairs on the few stocks I've made and on a lot of my furniture building and never had any problems with it. i also suggested epoxy because it generally does not need clamping to achieve maximum strength, in fact it is recommended that you don't clamp an epoxy joint and where the break is in the photo, looked like a spot that might be difficult to clamp.