Lock inletting

[rich pierce]

Better than most original flintlock longrifles.

[Stophel]

Not the best images, but here's a couple of German lock inlets.  




The top gun has the inlet scraped smooth and flat, with only a dimple for the sear screw.  The bottom gun is not really shaped much more closely to the lock parts.  It is rougher.

[Bernard]

Acer suggests that it's important to get a good (tight) fit between the bolster and the barrel to preclude water from getting into the lock mortice. Of much more importance is to keep powder from getting into the mortice. If a sufficient accumulation of powder builds up in the lock mortice you can just imagine the effect of that powder igniting. Don't go there! Fit that lock bolster tight to the barrel. Then inlet the other parts. 

[Bernard]

Jim Filipski suggests filing a slight draft on the bolster to angle the tail of the lock out a bit. I believe that might create a geometrical problem with the frizzen opening if it fits the barrel closely as it would rotate up and inward against the barrel.

[rich pierce]

I don't file an angle on the bolster with a swamped barrel as it will already kick out a tiny bit.  It's not unusual to have to grind a frizzen a little to get the right barrel clearance, either way.

[Bob Roller]

This is like the Sharps capping breech loaders that could allow loose powder grains in the area in the rear of the forearm that houses the lever spring. When enough powder accumulates,Voila! An instant customizing of a Sharps rifle.

Bob Roller