run patch soaked in Slip 2000 gun oil ( cheating, but safe for black powder and great rust preventative on modern firearms) followed by 2 dry patches to pick up extra oil.
So I feel like my cleaning process is acceptable and not anything weird, so I don't understand my consistent rust problems. I shot and cleaned yesterday, and I check this morning and I already have light surface rusting in the bore. Thanks for the help.
Odd thing in your sentence - why is your bore rusting? sounds to me, you never get it clean - must not get it clean.
As noted, 2 patches after oiling is too much. Try only one- or none. If you are wetting a patch with the oil and running it up and down a few times, then patching twice- you are removing your rust preventative. I've never had a barrel rust in 1 day after cleaning and all I have every used for cleaning is the water bucket method and WD40- even when I lived on the coast.
My cleaning regime is in another thread, however I use WD40 as it is fairly dry here 50% humidity. After cleaning - I get it clean! Really clean because the barrels come of and get the breech shoved into a container of water. I use either a stainless bucket or Folgers 3lb. coffee can as it is plastic. Water is pumped into and out of the bore. They get CLEAN when you clean like that - cold water.
You don't need hot, don't need warm either, when cold tap water works. There is never ANY crusted fouling on my plugs, - that gets dissolved and flushed out of the bore. At Hefley Creek Rendezvous most years, the humidity runs between 6 and 9%. I find no difference in cleaning there, than cleaning at home. No difference in loading or point of impact, either.
The bore is cleaned with 1 patch - up and down, up and down drawing water into the bore, then flushing it out the vent of nipple seat. After that, it takes 4 to 5 patches to get it dry to where the last one is quite difficult to pull out - they are tight - doubled flannelette. My jags are sized so I can use doubled flannelette. It gets into the corners of the square rifling I prefer. At that point, the barrel is not only clean, but bone dry- 4 or 5 patches used. I have a Getz bl. with rounded rifling. I actually find it no easier to clean than square rifling - they all clean easily.
After the bore is dry - spray WD40 down the bore - copiously - that means a lot - until it runs out the nipple seat or vent. THEN that gets patched out- blasting the excess out the vent or nipple seat. That carries away ANY moisture than might be still in a nook or cranny at the breech. A tight fitting fresh patches is run down and out, down and out, then the dried, inside and out barrel is wiped down with that wet WD40 patch, the gun reassembled and put away, muzzle down in the rack. Any excess WD40 that might be in the barrel or breech, comes out the muzzle and is soaked up by the board the muzzle sits on in my lockup on the rack. NO rust the next day - no rust in 1 week, month or 5 years. I have never seen any nor felt any of the dried WD40 shellac people have spoken of here on this site. Perhaps storing the muzzle down prevents that. Storing the muzzle down, also stops the vents from being plugged with oil. I have never had to wipe out the bore before loading it next time, either.
The boys & girls here take their barrels off the stock for cleaning. It is what we've, (Taylor and I)taught them. Whether pinned or wedged on, the barrels come off for cleaning. Minor care is all that is needed, to prevent stock damage.
Yes - I know your ancestors likely did not do that - they also rusted the $#*! out of their barrels and had to have them "freshed" regularly if they shot much at all, which most did not.
Freshed, means to re-bore, if really bad, then re-rifle because their guns were badly neglected according to what we do today with ours.
