Most of us patch the ball for our smoothbores, same method as we do with rifles.
With shot, many use a couple thin overshot/wads on the powder, then shot then overshot wad.
The lack of a heavy wad beneath the shot prevents the heavy-wad blowing through the emerging pattern due to muzzle-blast.
I have a picture displaying this phenomenon somewhere - taken from W W.Greener's 9th Edition of The Gun etc, written in 1912 I think.
Photograph/shadow-graphs of the day. Cylinder bore at top, choked bore in the bottom picture. In both cases, the over-shot wad has tripped the wire well ahead of the shot cloud.
You can see in the top picture, the is a wad pushing into the shot column & expanding it. In the bottom picture the same thing appears to be happening at the rear of the shot column, but the wad/s are falling back quite quickly & a concentration of shot is outdistancing the wads and are quite tightly oriented.
In a shot column as I have noted above, with only light thin cards between the shot and powder, we would hope they would fall back quickly due to their light weight as you can see with the first wad on the left in both picture/shadow-graphs.
Both graphs show a large separation of the wads. Common in 'those;' days of these pictures, a hard card, likely 1/8" thick, was placed on the powder. Then 2, 1/4" felt or pressed horse-hair wads were placed on that, then another hard card, then the shot, then the overshot card. That is why you see 'so many' wads in the shadow-graphs.
Got called away to unload some pre-made cedar fence panels.
As with any combination, the shooter has to try them in HIS gun/s to see if they work for THOSE guns. Most guns are laws unto themselves, especially smoothbores.
With rifles, we know certain combinations of components that seem to work in all guns so we know where to start with them. Smooth bored guns, whether shooting shot or solid ball
usually need to be played with to obtain satisfaction.