Author Topic: Murphy's oil soap (Read 10530 times)

Scota4570 · « **on:** September 01, 2019, 06:07:52 PM »

As patch lube?

I had been using a commercial product in a squeeze bottle. It looked an smelled like the institutional hand soap that comes in the white beehive shape dispenser. I ran out of the commercial patch lube.

I had Murphys on hand and filled the squeeze bottle. The murphys works great. I am getting tiny groups and much less fouling than I am used to. It is a bit slimy to work with while loading. I shot two high scores in a pistol match using it yesterday.

Anyone else using MOS as a patch lube?

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #1 on:** September 01, 2019, 06:24:31 PM »

I'll have to give it a try, Scota. Might work V well in a scabby old barrel!

I do use "Udderly Smooth" in lots of guns, but it has water content, so more for range work.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #2 on:** September 01, 2019, 06:28:11 PM »

Quote from: Scota4570 on September 01, 2019, 06:07:52 PM

As patch lube?

I had been using a commercial product in a squeeze bottle. It looked an smelled like the institutional hand soap that comes in the white beehive shape dispenser. I ran out of the commercial patch lube.

I had Murphys on hand and filled the squeeze bottle. The murphys works great. I am getting tiny groups and much less fouling than I am used to. It is a bit slimy to work with while loading. I shot two high scores in a pistol match using it yesterday.

Anyone else using MOS as a patch lube?

I add about 10% rubbing alcohol mixed in with it.

Ghillie · « **Reply #3 on:** September 01, 2019, 06:39:34 PM »

I use 1/3 Murphy's Oil Soap, 1/3 water and 1/3 rubbing alcohol as a cleaning solution for my muzzle loaders and black powder suppository guns with excellent results. The alcohol is added to aid in drying. It cleans up the fouling really quickly.

WadePatton · « **Reply #4 on:** September 01, 2019, 06:47:25 PM »

Quote from: Mike Brooks on September 01, 2019, 06:28:11 PM

Quote from: Scota4570 on September 01, 2019, 06:07:52 PM
...
Anyone else using MOS as a patch lube?
I add about 10% rubbing alcohol mixed in with it.

This "x" percent of rubbing alcohol always confuses me as I only see 91%, 70% and 50% isopropyl alcohols sold as "rubbing alcohol" in my state. So which "rubbing alcohol" are you referring to because they vary considerably.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #5 on:** September 01, 2019, 06:52:15 PM »

Quote from: WadePatton on September 01, 2019, 06:47:25 PM

Quote from: Mike Brooks on September 01, 2019, 06:28:11 PM
Quote from: Scota4570 on September 01, 2019, 06:07:52 PM
...
Anyone else using MOS as a patch lube?
I add about 10% rubbing alcohol mixed in with it.

This "x" percent of rubbing alcohol always confuses me as I only see 91%, 70% and 50% isopropyl alcohols sold as "rubbing alcohol" in my state. So which "rubbing alcohol" are you referring to because they vary considerably.

Beats me, what ever is on hand around the house. Don't measure either, just a dollop or what ever looks like 10%.

Ghillie · « **Reply #6 on:** September 01, 2019, 09:49:25 PM »

For my cleaning solution, I normally use the 91% isopropyl alcohol. The other ingredient is water in the mixture. If I used the 51%, I'd just eliminate the water and use 1/3 MOS and 2/3 51% alcohol to get the same ratio's of ingredients.

Mike Lyons · « **Reply #7 on:** September 01, 2019, 10:03:53 PM »

I won’t use anything else. I can shoot all day without a hitch.

Molly · « **Reply #8 on:** September 03, 2019, 02:06:19 AM »

Ever take a deep wiff of Mr. Flintlock lube and cleaner? Both the color and oder have more than a hint of MOS.

Jason C · « **Reply #9 on:** September 03, 2019, 02:18:22 AM »

Quote from: Ghillie on September 01, 2019, 06:39:34 PM

I use 1/3 Murphy's Oil Soap, 1/3 water and 1/3 rubbing alcohol as a cleaning solution for my muzzle loaders and black powder suppository guns with excellent results. The alcohol is added to aid in drying. It cleans up the fouling really quickly.

Murphy's mix! At least that's what we call it in the cowboy action shooting world.

bgf · « **Reply #10 on:** September 03, 2019, 02:27:57 AM »

Quote from: Molly on September 03, 2019, 02:06:19 AM

Ever take a deep wiff of Mr. Flintlock lube and cleaner? Both the color and oder have more than a hint of MOS.

Yes! I told a couple people this, but they didn't think it smelled the same...how could it!

Jerry · « **Reply #11 on:** September 03, 2019, 04:25:51 AM »

Quote from: Molly on September 03, 2019, 02:06:19 AM

Ever take a deep wiff of Mr. Flintlock lube and cleaner? Both the color and oder have more than a hint of MOS.

Molly, Certainly smells like MOS and alcohol to me. Thought this for sometime.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 03, 2019, 06:45:22 AM »

What is the reason for adding rubbing alcohol?

Jason C · « **Reply #13 on:** September 03, 2019, 01:28:18 PM »

Quote from: Scota4570 on September 03, 2019, 06:45:22 AM

What is the reason for adding rubbing alcohol?

Helps it dry out faster.

WadePatton · « **Reply #14 on:** September 03, 2019, 04:21:56 PM »

I went digging around here because I thought I remembered reading of MOS-based lube before.

And I had. In more than one thread here back around 2010 there were a few different guys complaining of the brown gunk they found in the grooves after cleaning when using MOS in their lube. That it took carb or brake cleaner to cut the gunk and return their bores to shiny metal.

I also read enough threads to find that some folks, as seen by the support here, don't have that problem. Has anyone sorted out the how/why the brown stuff? I even read of father/son shooters where the son wouldn't use it but the father loved it-so that rules out weather differences.

I'm just curious where the naysayers are now. Or will this thread kick up another "spike" in folks who try it and don't like their results after a few sessions and cleanings. Or maybe the solution to brown barrel residue was found in the years between, and I didn't read enough threads?

Anybody still around that had the difficult to remove brown stuff problems?

Tony N · « **Reply #15 on:** September 04, 2019, 04:09:21 AM »

I’ve been using it to clean for yrs with no problem what so ever. I do remember a thread where some said that they wouldn’t use it. To each his own I guess

~Tony

WadePatton · « **Reply #16 on:** September 04, 2019, 05:28:01 AM »

Quote from: T. Nienaber on September 04, 2019, 04:09:21 AM

I’ve been using it to clean for yrs with no problem what so ever. I do remember a thread where some said that they wouldn’t use it. To each his own I guess

~Tony

This was specifically from use as a patch lube, not a cleaning agent, as I read it. Perhaps it's no longer an issue.

Don Steele · « **Reply #17 on:** September 05, 2019, 01:45:51 PM »

I never thought about using it straight. It appears in a LOT of “ home brew “ recipes so that it’s utility is hard to argue. Here’s a few facts about the product, make of them what you will. Murphy’s Oil Soap is a blend of citronella oil and sodium hydroxide ( aka: lye or caustic soda) The citronella oil is what we recognize in Mr. Flintlock ‘s product. It has a VERY unique aroma. Some would say objectionable, but that’s a matter of opinion.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 05, 2019, 07:04:50 PM »

Interesting, I see the NAOH concentration is between 1 and 5%. Not much. Keep that in perspective. Bagels are boiled in NAOH solution before baking. I have not noticed any effect on my skin associated with a strong base exposure. When I can a will check the pH and see how caustic it is.

Yes, I have been using it straight as a patch lube.

rich pierce · « **Reply #19 on:** September 05, 2019, 07:42:30 PM »

All soaps contain lye. I’m not talking detergents.

Dave A · « **Reply #20 on:** September 05, 2019, 11:46:58 PM »

"All soaps contain lye"

Not really relevant, but I'm pretty sure the lye gets used up as part of the saponification/reaction process. At least that's what a soapmaker told me.

I thought that Murphy's has some type of palm oil derivative, or tall oil from pulp. Either way the Murphy's/Water/Alcohol does work like a charm, but so do a lot of products.

Wasn't Pine-Sol a thing for a while (70's) too?

Tony N · « **Reply #21 on:** September 06, 2019, 01:46:19 AM »

Quote from: WadePatton on September 04, 2019, 05:28:01 AM

Quote from: T. Nienaber on September 04, 2019, 04:09:21 AM
I’ve been using it to clean for yrs with no problem what so ever. I do remember a thread where some said that they wouldn’t use it. To each his own I guess

~Tony

This was specifically from use as a patch lube, not a cleaning agent, as I read it. Perhaps it's no longer an issue.

Oops, disregard!

WadePatton · « **Reply #22 on:** September 07, 2019, 10:10:47 PM »

Quote from: Dave A on September 05, 2019, 11:46:58 PM

"All soaps contain lye"

Not really relevant, but I'm pretty sure the lye gets used up as part of the saponification/reaction process. At least that's what a soapmaker told me.

I thought that Murphy's has some type of palm oil derivative, or tall oil from pulp. Either way the Murphy's/Water/Alcohol does work like a charm, but so do a lot of products.

Wasn't Pine-Sol a thing for a while (70's) too?

Right. Saponification, the making of soap from fat/oils and lye, is usually carefully calculated to err on the fats/oils side of the chemical process, that way -all- the lye is consumed and the product may have a bit of greasiness, but zero causticity. So if done properly there's zero lye "in soap" only in "soap-making".

I'm yet surprised that no one remembers the nay-sayers on this MOS. There was more than one, I suppose it was all their error. I'll leave it be.

Daryl · « **Reply #23 on:** September 08, 2019, 01:58:20 AM »

I remember that too, Wade. It did not happen to me. I also recall that folks, maybe not here, but on a cast bullet forum
I used to participate in, stated they got the tar-like substance from using bore-butter & that it would build up and needed
to be removed with break cleaner or some-such chemical.
I have not had ANYTHING build up in my bores since I learned to use snug combinations, in about 1973/4. For something to
build up in the bore, would be an impossibility. My ball and patch combinations go right into the corners of the rifling with lots
of compression - and - easy loading.

bgf · « **Reply #24 on:** September 08, 2019, 04:03:25 AM »

If i remember correctly, Roger Fisher was not a fan of Murphys oil soap and claimed it would build up in the grooves over time and harm accuracy.

I had a similar issue with vegetable oils and some dubiously "natural" neetsfoot oil: the stuff would bake on to the bore behind the patch and ball, starting just over the powder. I did use oven cleaner (containing lye) or actual lye to remove slivers of it from the grooves. It could have been a coincidence, but happened more than once...and i patch pretty tight except the rare experiment with thinner but tight patching and bigger ball. Since i went to water as my patch lube, have never seen it again.

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Author Topic: Murphy's oil soap (Read 10530 times)