pinning the trigger

[Red Owl]

Someone a while back said if the trigger is pinned, the pin going in direct contact with the wood, the pin hole should go all the way through the stock so if a trigger repair is needed the pin can, at a later date, be driven out. In other words, don't drive the trigger pin into a blind hole where it cannot later be taken out.
   Is this true?  On the opposite side- is the pin hidden under the lock plate? I can't recall seeing any thing as big as the trigger pin.
   My problem is I want to use this arrangement on a plains rifle without a side plate.  My only thought right now is to have a small 1/16" pin on the opposite side that is short in length and is used to drive out the large diameter trigger pin if the need should ever arise. I think the 1/16" pin would not be too noticeable.
   Any tips or thoughts welcomed.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I rarely use a pin as large as 3/32.  From 1/16" - 5/64" is just fine.  And the hole goes straight out the other side, whether it is covered by a side plate or not.  It doesn't matter.  Being able to push the pivot pin out is most desirable.  Hardened wire is preferable, but a nail is likely more PC.

[Randy Hedden]

You could stop short when drilling the hole for the pin to hold the trigger and then just drill the rest of the way with a 1/16" drill but not put a pin in that 1/16" hole.  Then anytime you wanted to remove the trigger you could put a 1/16" pin in the hole to drive the trigger pin out.

If it were me I would just drill all the way through for the diameter of the trigger pin and then cut the pin off a little short so it doesn't come all the way through to the surface of the sideplate side.  Maybe make it 1/16" or 3/32" short and rub some beeswax into the hole.  Most people won't even notice the hole with the beeswax in it.

I do this with all the barrel and ferrule pins on the longrifles I build unless I am using some kind of escutcheon around the pin holes.  The beeswax also helps keep the pins from migrating out of the wood.

Of course, I believe most plains type rifles used double set triggers so no trigger pin would be used.

Randy Hedden

[Red Owl]

Well that's the thing, this rifle I am building is a learning experience and, while I am at it, I want to turn out something as good as possible. The 3/32 sounds pretty good and with the beeswax it should not show up, I'll probably go with that.
   Which brings up yet another question.  Some wedges are slotted for a pin, to retain them.  This gun I am building will be a back up for any hunts into remote areas. That is the plan.  In any event the idea of retaining a wedge seems vaild- don't want to lose one in a place where I can't get another.
   Some pins are set inside the barrel channel- again- that seems like a blind hole and taking the pin out would be a problem if the wedge needed work.  Another method I have seen is the pin in a slot right under the wedge plate, off hand that would seem to make more sense because the wedge plate could be removed to in turn remove the pin if the wedge had to be replaced.

[James Rogers]

Take a look at some fine English fowling pieces with open side plates. You can see the pin all the way thru on them.

[Randy Hedden]

Why don't you consider using small wood screws inside  the barrel channel as keepers for the slotted wedges?  If the need arises to take the wedges out it just takes removing the screws.

Randy Hedden

[Don Getz]

As far as the pin thru the trigger goes, don't worry about the hole.   If you are building a gun with a sideplate, it willl be
hidden.  If it doesn't have a side plate, you can adjust the length of the pin to be flush with the wood.   It also sound like
you are putting a rather large pin thru the trigger....this really is not necessary.    I use 6 penny finishing nails for my barrel lugs and trigger pin....they mike at about .070, plenty big for both jobs..............Don

[wmrike]

I drill for a very light friction fit and then bend a short length of the head end of the pin 90 degrees so it will only go in so far and can be grabbed with a pair of pliers and pulled out if necessary.  Haven't need to, but..

[Roger Fisher]

A waxy stick made for covering nail holes in paneling and such is available in different colours and you can find a colour quite close to that reddish brown finish on most long rifles. The pin/pins can be cut a tad short of flush and the hole filled and smoothed over so really not noticeable.