Thanks again...
I had no idea what "chatoyance" is, thanks for the definition/clarification, Mike! Way above my vocabulary...
Ron..., The tannic solution, on most pieces of wood, enhances the dark curl. One thing I've found, is that it's important to use a fresh batch of tannic. I've used tannic solution that had been sitting around the shop for a couple months and didn't get nearly the results as a fresh batch. Jim Kibler sells the tannic powder. There are other sources, and you can even get it on Amazon. I don't use any magic formula, or ratio, just a small mason jar with about two inches of distilled water, then pinches of the tannic powder until it's about the color of tea. I think the "chatoyance" described by Mike is more a function of the type of varnish used during the finishing process?...
Bob..., the photos are a little deceiving, in that they're a little "washed out", but I understand what you're getting at. To answer your question, which I didn't mention in the original post, is that I did use an amber transit tint (dye) after I scrubbed the stock back. The stock turned dark after the iron nitrate and heat were applied, but it wasn't crazy dark. I used a maroon scotch brite pad and teak oil (which I used to finished the stock) to rub the dark color back. After that I applied the amber color to bring up the gold undertones.
This is definitely not a copy of a Dickert rifle. The patch box engraving is based on something I saw on the internet, which I thought was kinda cool, and adapted the design to what's on the rifle. I was very tempted to do something on the side plate, and probably should have. I'll be asking the current owner if he'd like me to do some engraving, even if just a simple nick and dot boarder. The carving around the tang, and behind the cheek are very close to what was on at least one original Dickert.
Dave..., I guess the best way to answer your question is to say I don't go crazy over the carving, but I definitely scrub over it. Once I see the edges start to loose the dark color, I stop. This gives the effect of a light "dry brush" over the high points, keeping the recesses dark. The carving design may be a little dark, but with the edges lightened up, it usually works well. I try to do that on plain stocks as well, giving the entire carving a wash of bone black, then rub it back. Also, once I have my carving done, at a minimum, I go back and re-stab the entire design. This will create a distinctive "outline", that enhances the design. On this piece, I went a bit farther and "outlined" with a "V" gouge. Been doing that more and more....
Thanks again!
Ed
