Author Topic: Building a hunting pouch (Read 7246 times)

T.C.Albert · « **on:** December 07, 2019, 01:58:38 PM »

I’m making a pouch and thought I might post
It’s progress in a few entries here. It’s a rough
Copy based on plate #70 in Grants “Kentucky
Rifle Hunting Pouch “ book, but for those
That don’t have the book handy I will post
The image of it here.
TC

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #1 on:** December 07, 2019, 02:11:39 PM »

The first thing I did was make a pattern
I used a set of dividers and a ruler to determine
The proportions of the original and used them
To lay out a grid on heavy pattern paper the
Size I wanted this bag to be. Here are images of
The pattern.
TC

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #2 on:** December 07, 2019, 02:18:20 PM »

Using 3-4oz veg tan leather I cut out
A front and back panel piece. I also
Cut out a long 3/8” wide strip of the same
Stuff to be used as a welt. The welt would be
Sewn along the edge between the two panels
However before I could sew the panels together
I needed to scallop the top edge of the front
Panel to allow easier access to the inside of
The pouch. The resulting top edge is turned
And stitched . I use linen cord , an awl and
Harness needles to do this. This image
Shows that top edge. The side
Reinforcements, the flap hinge and the
Inner pocket are all sewn in place too,
But that’s jumping ahead. For now please
Just note the scalloped top edge of the front
Panel.
TC
TC

thecapgunkid · « **Reply #3 on:** December 07, 2019, 02:19:19 PM »

good stuff. please keep going.

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #4 on:** December 07, 2019, 03:17:19 PM »

To sew the panels together, they are laid together
smooth side To smooth side. The welt strip is
inserted around the edge between Them.
The leather is dampened, the stitches measured
off with A stitching wheel, the awl holes are then
poked in one at a time And sewn shut with waxed linen cord and a two needle harness Stitch.
After that the pouch body is soaked in warm water and turned Right side out.
The edge of the welt will show around the outside seam (Top image)
And the now turned inner seam will look like the image On the bottom.
TC

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #5 on:** December 07, 2019, 04:44:58 PM »

Good stuff Bud.

Tim

Frank Barker · « **Reply #6 on:** December 07, 2019, 05:05:04 PM »

WOW Tim, as usual, another mind stirring and informative project. Is that a hanging pocket that can be seen on the inside back of picture number four ? Is the strap sewn into the top of the side seam or is it attached to the back ? Assuming that those are 1 inch squares the measurements are approximately 8x9. Is's good to hear from you and thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
Regards
Frank Barker

Mike from OK · « **Reply #7 on:** December 07, 2019, 05:11:33 PM »

What is used to make the binding on the edges?

Mike

James Rogers · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2019, 05:30:05 PM »

Looking good!

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2019, 05:47:28 PM »

Thanks for sharing.

DougS · « **Reply #10 on:** December 07, 2019, 09:17:04 PM »

Thank you TC.

Great stuff!

Regards,

Doug

Greg Pennell · « **Reply #11 on:** December 08, 2019, 03:32:40 AM »

I love the “build along” posts...I always learn something new. Thanks for taking the time!

Greg

Brokennock · « **Reply #12 on:** December 08, 2019, 08:32:56 AM »

Thank you for sharing. I will try to save my questions until you are done.

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #13 on:** December 08, 2019, 09:09:45 PM »

Thanks for all the good comments.
They are much appreciated.
I will try to answer a few questions here
If I forget one please keep bugging me and
I will. Sorry in advance.

The bag size ended up 9 1/2” x 7 1/2” . About
A half inch or a quarter inch per side was
Lost in the seam. But yes, it started about
10x8 on the pattern. Each hide may or may
Not shrink too which is something to be aware
Of. That’s why I always fit and attach the flap
Last. There’s no real way to exactly pattern it

The strap on the original sure looks like it’s
Captured in the top edge of the flap seam.
I would expect that because it was a very
Common way to do it. My copy will use a
Flap hinge though so the flap opens easier.
So my straps will have to be attached to the
Back.

The side reinforcement pieces are made from
The same leather I used for the body panels.

And finally there is a hanging pocket
In the back. It’s attached by seeing it
On when the flap hinge was sewn across
The top of the back panel. Here are a few
Images of that pocket. It was requested
To hold tow and cleaning jags.

hawkeye · « **Reply #14 on:** December 08, 2019, 09:19:01 PM »

Nice work, well done

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #15 on:** December 08, 2019, 09:24:20 PM »

Next I constructed and added the flap from
Two pieces of leather saddle stitched along
The edges. A double thick flap stays shut
Well and retains its shape. I doubt the original
Was done this way but it’s something I use
A lot in my work.

The original mentioned tooled sun bursts
But I can’t tell what that is. Instead I tooled
The edges with simple straight and wavy lines
To match the rest of the work on the panels

The flap simple sees to the front edge of the
Hinge with two rows of stitches.

Marcruger · « **Reply #16 on:** December 08, 2019, 11:27:23 PM »

Beautiful work as always T.C. A question if I may? I dye my parts before I assemble them. I am just curious why you finish the parts afterwards? Thank you for sharing your excellent construction with us. God Bless, Marc

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #17 on:** December 09, 2019, 01:32:41 AM »

Happy to answer Marc, but it’s just mostly
A habit I suppose. A big part of my antiquing
And shaping technique can only be done
After assembly, and getting the finishes to
Blend is a lot of fussing around too, so
Applying it all at the end is just as easier for
Me,I think. I can’t say The easiest way cause
I’ve just done it this way.

Also, my working lines and stitch
Marks just show up better on the natural
colored stuff. But then I’m half blind.
TC

scottmc · « **Reply #18 on:** December 09, 2019, 04:54:47 PM »

T.C., I always enjoy your articles and information that u share so thank you for that!
What tool do u and others use to create the tooling lines seen on the flap? A picture would help if u have one to show.
Thanks again and nice to see u post on here!

Frank Barker · « **Reply #19 on:** December 10, 2019, 01:12:19 AM »

Thanks Tim, I always learn something new every time you post your projects like this...
Thanks and Kind Regards
Frank

G. Elsenbeck · « **Reply #20 on:** December 12, 2019, 05:41:03 PM »

As always, great instruction with photos. Nice pouch Tim!

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #21 on:** December 13, 2019, 05:52:28 PM »

Thanks again for all the good words.
They are much appreciated.

Scottmc, I just use wing dividers to incise
Straight lines and a little wavy disc on a modeling
Tool for the crooked lines. It’s like a mini pie crust
Edger. I believe it was for modeling clay but it
Works fine for my leather stuff too.

I’m attaching the strap next. To do that I need
To clean up this old buckle. It’s an antique brass roller
Buckle with an iron tongue. Roller buckles are perfect for
Late percussion era stuff and were a staple in the trade
For horse tack and harness work and are even listed in
Fur trade inventories in the 1830s.

Smokey Plainsman · « **Reply #22 on:** December 13, 2019, 11:39:30 PM »

Looks great!

I sent you a PM, not sure if it went through or if your inbox might be full? Thanks sir!

T.C.Albert · « **Reply #23 on:** December 14, 2019, 05:40:58 PM »

Sorry. On sent
TC

Smokey Plainsman · « **Reply #24 on:** December 14, 2019, 10:53:48 PM »

Quote from: T.C.Albert on December 14, 2019, 05:40:58 PM

Sorry. On sent
TC

It’s okay! Just got it.

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Author Topic: Building a hunting pouch (Read 7246 times)

Smokey Plainsman

Smokey Plainsman