Secondary/Beavertail Lock Panel Moldings

[JLayne]

All,

I have been working on a pre-carve VA Rifle and want to add secondary moldings with beavertail finials around the lock and sideplate panels. My question is, how close do you take the rifle to its final overall shape before sketching them out and carving them in?  I am at the point where the buttstock and wrist are mostly shaped, and the forearm ahead of the main lock and sideplate panels is mostly rounded, although I have left it a bit thick just forward of the panels for now in case I need that extra wood for the secondaries. I also still need to inlet the trigger plate and guard, and suspect that will result in a slight amount of material coming off the underside to to get the wood and plate flush.

Thanks in advance.

Jay

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I'm currently building a Pennsylvania fowler/rifle for a friend.  Before I cut the beavertails behind the lock panels, the gun was complete, and sanded to 220 grit.  I then drew the beavertails. cut the outlines with a parting chisel, and removed the ground to set them in relief.  You don't need or want extra wood.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Taylor described it very well.  Here are some more photos that should help:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/building-a-chambers-isaac-haines-rifle-kit.116533/page-2

Scroll down to the see the lock panels and moldings.

dave

[Jim Kibler]

I'd suggest studying Taylor's photos carefully.  Understand the shape of the areas clearly before carving and understand where material is removed when carving.  Study, study, study until this is clear in your head before carving.  This is an area that beginners have a great deal of trouble dealing with. 

Jim

[Goo]

I was taught that the caving doesn't need to be a very deep,  Less is more.

[Ed Wenger]

Very good information, and I would agree with Taylor..., “you don’t need, or want, extra wood”’

     Ed

[JLayne]

All,

Thank you for the information and pictures. It is really appreciated. I have a follow-up question. I don't yet own a V parting tool, but see that Taylor used one to cut the edges around the molding. I also see online that they come in differing widths and angles. I am looking at a micro set which appears similar to what Taylor is using in the photos, and includes V parting tools in widths of 1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm and 4mm. However, I must choose between 45, 60 or 90 degrees as the angle of cut, as all tools in the set are set to the same angle. Which (angle) set would you recommend?

Thanks,
Jay

[smart dog]

Hi,
I use 60 degree "V" gouges, but as I showed in the link I provided, I mostly stab in my edges rather than use a gouge.  A "V" tool is faster once you master it, however.

dave

[JLayne]

Hi,
I use 60 degree "V" gouges, but as I showed in the link I provided, I mostly stab in my edges rather than use a gouge.  A "V" tool is faster once you master it, however.

dave

Thanks. I did see that in the thread you linked. I will probably try both techniques (chisel versus V gouge) on some scrap to see which one I feel more confident with before trying either on the actual moldings.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I also use 60 degree parting tools.  I got mine from Brownell's. They are super sharp out of the box, and cut like crazy.  They're meant to be pushed by hand, rather than driven with a hammer, though...something to consider.

[Stophel]

I use a full size Pfeil 60 degree parting tool for virtually everything.  Usually pushing it with my hands, but chasing it sometimes (it's basically wood engraving).   It's way faster, and simpler, once you get the hang of it.  But it leaves you no room for error.  Definitely need to learn control with it.  A LOT of original gun carving was very obviously outlined with "V" tools.

[flehto]

The wood before doing the carving around the lock and side panels is as Taylor said, finished shaped and sanded w/ 220 grit.  I use a thicker Xacto bladed knife to outline and the point of the blade is sharpened to a radius so the fragile tip doesn't break off. I do use a "V" parting tool for some  other areas of carving......Fred




pic sharing

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Im working in the same area on my current project.  The beaver tails are always tricky because I almost always have a grain transition in it.

Cory Joe Stewart

[Waksupi]

I was taught that the caving doesn't need to be a very deep,  Less is more.

Good point. Most I see is way too deep.