Help my 76 yr old brain

[Dennis Glazener]

I am replacing a rear trigger on double set Davis triggers. I often built mine from kits and have hardened them with no problem but had instructions. Am I ok heating with propane to cherry red and quenching in 30 weight motor oil? Then temper at about 450 degrees? It's been so long I have forgotten how I quenched.
Dennis

[rich pierce]

Dennis, what steel is it?

Warm canola oil works well for quenching high carbon steels and the smoke is less offensive.
When it comes to tempering I go by eye and temper the interacting parts to dark straw and the rest to spring blue.

[Bob Roller]

Dennis, what steel is it?

Warm canola oil works well for quenching high carbon steels and the smoke is less offensive.
When it comes to tempering I go by eye and temper the interacting parts to dark straw and the rest to spring blue.

If you're using 0-1 that will work.Also with 1075 or 1095 if that is what was used.
Bob Roller

[Waksupi]

I prepare my quench by heating a rod up to orange red, and then stirring the automatic transmission fluid I use. Doing this has cut back on knife blades cracking in the quench, should be good for anything else,  too. The pre-heating takes away some of the shock to the steel. Learned it from E.G. Smith when I apprenticed with him years ago.

[smart dog]

Hi Dennis,
Quench in canola oil and avoid the smell of burning motor oil. I suggest tempering to 580-600, which will be blue. The rear trigger endures the most force during setting and it would be a shame to have the trigger break. Tempering at 475 might leave it a little too brittle. 

dave

[Dennis Glazener]

Dennis, what steel is it?

Warm canola oil works well for quenching high carbon steels and the smoke is less offensive.
When it comes to tempering I go by eye and temper the interacting parts to dark straw and the rest to spring blue.

Not sure Rich, it's a Davis trigger I picked up with some other trigger parts. I assume its 1095 but not sure.
Canola is fine, am sure I have some. How about olive oil
Dennis

[Dennis Glazener]

Hi Dennis,
Quench in canola oil and avoid the smell of burning motor oil. I suggest tempering to 580-600, which will be blue. The rear trigger endures the most force during setting and it would be a shame to have the trigger break. Tempering at 475 might leave it a little too brittle. 

dave

Will have to go by color blue since stove doesn't go that high.
Thanks
Dennis

[Dphariss]

I am replacing a rear trigger on double set Davis triggers. I often built mine from kits and have hardened them with no problem but had instructions. Am I ok heating with propane to cherry red and quenching in 30 weight motor oil? Then temper at about 450 degrees? It's been so long I have forgotten how I quenched.
Dennis

30 wgt is way too thick.
ATF mixed with diesel or Marvels Mystery Oil to thin it further is better. And WARM it to at least 100-120 degrees.  Heavy oil will not cool as fast as warmed thin oil will and the part could fail to harden properly.

Dan

[B.Habermehl]

I’ve used olive oil for quenching small parts and chisels. Works fine, my wife’s nose isn’t offended by the smell wafting up from the shop. BJH

[Dennis Glazener]

I’ve used olive oil for quenching small parts and chisels. Works fine, my wife’s nose isn’t offended by the smell wafting up from the shop. BJH

I knew I had plenty of olive oil and wondered if it would work ok but I found almost a qt. of Canola oil that I will usexand yes I will be sure to heat it to temps Dan suggested.

I am pretty sure I have used ATF in the past, had forgotten about it. The motor oil I used was 20W.
Thanks for the info,
Dennis

[jerrywh]

 I have been using trans. fluid for over 50 years.

[J.E. Moore]

Dennis I use hot water from the tap when I make springs and harden blades (1095) and hadn't had any problems at all, knock on wood. And I draw my springs back 3 times to blue. I use a propane torch as well. I've found the hot water causes less warp to the springs and blades.

[Dennis Glazener]

J E,
Thanks might try that, I used to harden bore "spuds" in water, to keep them from warping I held them in a drill press chuck (useing water hardening drill rod). I would turn drill press on, set a can of water underneath then heat to bright red then while still running use the drill press quill to dunk the "spud" into the can of water. Can't remember every having one to warp.
 Note bore "spuds" were inserted in the bore and then a dial indicator was used to center the bore in the lathe.
Dennis