Author Topic: 20 GA English Fowler (Read 8715 times)

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #25 on:** February 29, 2020, 08:09:50 PM »

Darn good idea, using that steel. you won't be so afraid to set the gun on the ground when loading, or stand it up against a tree from time to time. And, of course, steel is better for bashing a coyote in the head.

bob hertrich · « **Reply #26 on:** February 29, 2020, 09:00:35 PM »

Jon, Where did you get the stock blank from. Are you using a 5/16th ramrod?

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #27 on:** February 29, 2020, 11:15:27 PM »

Bob - I received three slabs of English Walnut from a person that I did some engraving for (an English Webley Revolver) as payment. It's my understanding (and a certificate which is in much question), that the Walnut slabs were part of a clearing of some land of the forest in Nottinghamshire, England, which is the official "Sherwood Forest" They cleared some trees from the surrounding village of Edwinstowe, the site of Thoresby Hall. Seeing it's part of a national forest and managed by a national reserve, leads me to believe that the scrutiny of the English walnut's origin and certificate is in high question. (But....Still is stellar wood)

Yet, the Walnut I am using is English, and it is stunning. it is easy to work with, and is very hard in some places, and it will take and hold a carve.

As for the ramrod, I plan to make a 5/16 to taper to a Trumpet with English Walnut and possibly Ebony for the loading tip. This design plays well with a fusel that has a wooden ram rod instead of a military metal one.

Two blanks left - Plan to make an English sporting rifle and then

??

Craig - that was one of my biggest fears - if I used the Sterling, where would I put it for loading and general use? - I have a few "wall hangars", Time to make a workable Fowler with the ability to behave in the field.

Mike Brooks. If you are following, this is a fun and educational build from a true slab....

Cheers,

Jon

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #28 on:** April 11, 2020, 06:30:51 PM »

More work on the Fowler - I am still working more than full time at my "real job" remotely - it's strange but effective supporting hundreds of people in the same boat. Most are understanding and accept (technology) limitations, others... well -

So I have shaped the stock, the thimble inlet and full inlet the lock, trigger, trigger plate, measure and attached the side plate, started to mark the inlet of the side plate, got the trigger guard shaped correctly and lined up with the trigger (needs to be inletted) I have to trim down the sides around the lock and plate I think there is still too much wood there, (I added some Pencil marks to where I think I should take it down to) and I wanted to ask about the swell on the Thimble, I kept a swell there like a military rifle, but want to make is subtle not overly pronounced. Here are some pictures, I hope they help, and please, all feedback most welcome, as we are all sheltered in place, I'll try to post more pictures and updates for others to provide any input - Stay safe,

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #29 on:** April 11, 2020, 07:09:08 PM »

Jon, I think if you would take down the sideplate wood to just shy of your pencil mark, it would be fine - the lock side is a bit sharper right now, but taking the sideplate wood down will even them up. The overall effect, with that trigger and TG, is a right shapely piece of work.

BTW, I have some fine silver (.999) that ranges from 18 ga to 28 ga - but i'm not going to use it on the butt! This full-stock J&S Hawken has three barrel wedges, and I believe that I will make the wedge escutcheons from some of the 20 ga silver. And to personalize it a bit, I will try to do some decorative inlays also.

Love the direction that fowler is going - makes my old 10 ga look like a dump truck next to it!

smart dog · « **Reply #30 on:** April 11, 2020, 07:46:39 PM »

Hi Jon,
It is looking great! Most fowlers have no swell at the rear thimble. It actually would ruin the slim profile of the forearm and ideally the bottom tapers up from the trigger guard to the rear thimble. The swell was mainly a military feature. Also, Jon, the lock and side panel flats should be so thin they almost disappear. In fact, on many fowlers with round-faced locks, there was virtually no flat except at the nose and tail of the lock. Also, don't be concerned about the lock panel and side panel being the same. Make sure they look to start and end in same relative places on the stock but shape the lock panel to fit the lock, and shape the side plate panel to best fit the side plate. Good luck.

dave

upload image

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #31 on:** April 11, 2020, 07:53:23 PM »

Craig, Dave - Thank you - Awesome feedback - I have some trimming to do!!!! - I would rather have too much wood and have to cut it down that the opposite! - Great references, Off to the shop I go!!!

Chowmi · « **Reply #32 on:** April 11, 2020, 09:20:15 PM »

Jon,
Looking good! I'm jealous! Eventually I'll build one of those.

Norm

ed lundquist · « **Reply #33 on:** April 12, 2020, 02:37:53 AM »

Jon, I don't know how I missed this thread until now, beautiful work!

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #34 on:** April 26, 2020, 06:46:39 PM »

Dave Person is right - the trigger guard moves forward as you inlet it - here is the front, the back part to be finished today - Inlet the front first and work your way back.

Alaskagrizz · « **Reply #35 on:** April 26, 2020, 09:05:53 PM »

That’s shaping up to be an incredible example of your exceptional talents, Jon...it’s beyond beautiful!

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #36 on:** April 26, 2020, 11:44:12 PM »

Jon,

Very nice work! and also some Very good advice from Dave-Dog and others.

For the ramrod, I wouldn't use walnut though.
Traditionally, you can use ash, hickory, ebony, or purple-heart. I don't think walnut will stand up to it for long. I'd go for more than 5/16" at the rammer end, but taper it down well.

Best,
Richard.

Daryl · « **Reply #37 on:** April 27, 2020, 03:15:15 AM »

Nice piece of butt-stock Jon. That's going to be lovely.

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #38 on:** April 27, 2020, 05:42:15 PM »

Jon, every time I look at your work, I am amazed at the smoothness and precision you achieve.

I do not know if I will ever know why the triggers on many of our firearms are slanted back so much. It's as if you lift the trigger instead of pulling it. Believe our fore-fathers did many things differently than we do today. It does make the rifle look nicer, though.

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #39 on:** April 29, 2020, 07:51:07 PM »

Craig - you are right - it does make it look "sleek"

The Trigger guard is in, Side plate begins tonight - slow and steady wins the Walnut - this particular piece is all over the place...

Adrie luke · « **Reply #40 on:** April 29, 2020, 08:31:33 PM »

Jon,
I am still happy with your present!
I hope everything is all right with you and your family.

Adrie

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #41 on:** May 03, 2020, 04:19:11 PM »

Got some shop time yesterday - Side plate is in - now it's time to shape and finish the stock, and add thimbles. I tried to align the trigger pin and the front trigger guard pin to be under the sideplate, and it worked. so there are no pin holes on either side (lock hiding the other side)

B.Habermehl · « **Reply #42 on:** May 03, 2020, 06:04:17 PM »

Nice job of hiding the pin holes. Especially with the sculpted side plate. That took some advanced thought and planning. I’ve allways tried to do the same, emphasis on tried. I hate it when I have 1/2 a hole showing at the edge of a inleted part. BJH

Alaskagrizz · « **Reply #43 on:** May 04, 2020, 07:34:14 AM »

That awesome work of art becomes ever more exquisite each time you share your latest progress with all of us here following your build, Jon...it’s exceptional! You are a very gifted artisan!

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #44 on:** May 13, 2020, 06:44:55 PM »

Thimbles Done, and working on the Thumb Piece (Sterling Silver from a wax that Jim Kibler so graciously provided) . The rear ramrod pipe had to be hand made due to the unique shape and size. I followed Dave Person's rule of 3/4 of the front pipe exposed, 2/3 of the middle and 1/2 of the rear exposed, and it does make a slim profile. The front pipe is slightly larger to handle the tapered rod that "trumpets" to fit the 20 gauge barrel. (edit note: The thimbles are just sitting in the channel, not pinned for the pictures, you may see a little gap below them, that gap is pulled tight when pinned.) - Jon

David Price · « **Reply #45 on:** May 13, 2020, 10:02:07 PM »

Jon,
This build is looking really good. I have been watching all along not saying anything but I am watching.

Hope to see you hear in the shop sometime soon with that finished gun.

David Price

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #46 on:** May 13, 2020, 10:25:47 PM »

Thanks David - I'll post more often now that things at work are slowing a little - need to shape the sides a little, draw and rough out the clam-shell - then inlet the thumb piece. - Getting there - Stay healthy and safe, and I'll bring some more smoked Brisket Chili up - maybe Dave can join us one day soon as well - Both of you are exceptional mentors and I am blessed for having you here to help with the details -

Jon

Scota4570 · « **Reply #47 on:** May 14, 2020, 12:08:39 AM »

Can you give details on how you so perfectly inlet complicated shapes?

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #48 on:** May 14, 2020, 12:17:39 AM »

I would be very happy to - I will be in-letting my thumb piece next, which is more intricate than the side plate, and I'll do a step by step for you - again, there are many ways to do things, I have a way to do it that was taught from many sources, so feedback is always welcome, Thank you for asking,

Jon

Kingsburyarms · « **Reply #49 on:** May 24, 2020, 07:03:51 PM »

I'm actually getting less time in my shop due to this "event" than before, as so many people are working remotely, many more IT issues can arise! - So I finally shaped each side piece and started with the Beaver Tails - Will outline the clam-shell today and start the inlay of the thumb piece. I have not done any of the rough or final scraping, so you will still see some of the chisel marks. Hope all are well, healthy and safe...

Jon

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Author Topic: 20 GA English Fowler (Read 8715 times)

Alaskagrizz

Alaskagrizz