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Author Topic: Drilling Jig  (Read 3826 times)

Jim Evans

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Drilling Jig
« on: January 22, 2020, 08:52:14 PM »



Is this Drilling Jig worth getting?
I need to drill a few barrel pin holes and want them to be straight
Thanks for your input
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Offline SingleMalt

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2020, 08:57:10 PM »
I have one and I like it.  My only compaint, is that I wish it were wider.
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Offline rich pierce

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2020, 10:28:05 PM »
It digs in so you need to leave some extra wood on there.
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Offline SingleMalt

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2020, 12:35:57 AM »
Quote from: rich pierce on January 22, 2020, 10:28:05 PM
It digs in so you need to leave some extra wood on there.

Rich, I drill holes with the forestock square.  It's easier that way.
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Offline Scota4570

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2020, 05:02:26 AM »
I drill those holes with my milling machine, same idea.  I had had some bad luck on the last project.  I tried to drill the stock and brass tab in one shot.  The bit cam out in right field, twice in a row.  Do most drill the wood then the metal separately?
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Offline Blacksmoke

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #5 on: January 23, 2020, 06:39:57 AM »
I drill my cross pin holes using my drill press with a center punch held on center with the drill press vice.  This will work fine if you "dimple" the intended holes first and then drill between the centers.     Hugh Toenjes
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Offline RichG

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2020, 06:53:54 AM »
Haven't used that particular jig, but I do use the jig made by Dave Rase. It works wonderfully and I seldom use my drill press on guns any more. you should be able to search the forum for info.
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smokepole45cal

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2020, 07:57:53 AM »
Never will use a drill press. Just cant control it or prevent bit drifting while also holding a 54" long stock. Maybe I'm less of a multitasker. Allen Martin taught me to use my bubble level on my hand drill so I have more control and drill only half way through on each side of forestock till holes meet to avoid drill bit drifting.

When I visited Blake at Old Salem (no power tools or modern jigs used there) he showed me a simple depth gauge. It's a simple 3x3" wooden square with a square 1x1x8" long stick pierced through the 3x3" square . Stick has nail tip sticking out. Place flat of 3x3 square on top barrel flat, adjust vertical stick to depth of each lug on bottom flat while barrel is out of stock, place barrel back into stock, place 3x3 square flat back onto top flat of barrel, mark pin hole location by gently pressing nail head into side of stock...easy peezy!
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Offline satwel

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2020, 03:53:12 PM »
I have one and I like it but its usefulness is limited by its size. For barrel pins it works well. As Singlemalt noted, if it were wider it would be more useful. When I was building my 1742 Long Land Pattern musket, I found it wasn't wide enough to drill the lock bolts or the barrel tang screw and I had to use my drill press. It was just wide enough to allow me to drill the lock bolts for a jaeger that I'm currently working on.
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Offline Kevin Houlihan

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2020, 05:21:50 PM »
I use the one that Tom Snyder makes. It’s wide enough for barrel pins, lock bolts or barrel tangs.
Kevin
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Offline Craig Wilcox

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2020, 05:23:21 PM »
David Rases' jig is 3.5" between the "ears", and is 1.25" from the point to the base.  Works very well, IF you clear your bit frequently.  Comes with a 1/16" and a 1/8th bits, 6" long.
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Offline SingleMalt

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2020, 05:42:33 PM »
Quote from: Craig Wilcox on January 23, 2020, 05:23:21 PM
David Rases' jig is 3.5" between the "ears", and is 1.25" from the point to the base.  Works very well, IF you clear your bit frequently.  Comes with a 1/16" and a 1/8th bits, 6" long.

I wish the "frame" was a bit heavier.  It tends to flex in use.
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Offline David Rase

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2020, 06:02:25 PM »
My drill fixtures are made from .250" walled aluminum.  At one time I had an earlier run where I used .187" thick aluminum.  All subsequent frames are made from .259" material.
David 
 


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Offline deepcreekdale

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #13 on: January 26, 2020, 05:20:29 PM »
I also use the one Tom Snyder makes, and have never had a hole not turn out perfectly. One tip, if drilling a deeper hole with a 1/16 bit, clear the chips occasionally by pulling the drill back out. I think it makes the drill run more true, if you load up the drill bit, the waste has no where to go and tends to make the drill wander slightly.
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Offline Greg Pennell

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2020, 06:51:16 PM »
Quote from: David Rase on January 23, 2020, 06:02:25 PM
My drill fixtures are made from .250" walled aluminum.  At one time I had an earlier run where I used .187" thick aluminum.  All subsequent frames are made from .259" material.
David

David, will you possibly have any jigs with you at Lake Cumberland?

Greg
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Jim Evans

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2020, 07:45:35 PM »
I decided not to get this, Thanks for the inputs
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Offline flehto

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #16 on: February 01, 2020, 02:47:11 AM »
I bought one and found that it was way too slow and inaccurate.  My drill press has a reinforced 2'x4'  3/4 " thick plywood bolted to the DP table and after the layouts for the {4}  bbl lug pins are done,  the bbl/stock  ass'y is clamped in my very accurate vise and the holes are drilled through. Clamps at each hole location are moved to the next hole and a pin is driven into  the previously drilled hole. All 4 holes take 15-20 mins....the 3 RR pipes holes slightly less.

To ensure that the holes  are at right angles to the bbl, the bbl/stock ass'y is clamped in my vise w/ the top bbl  flat  against the vise's permanent jaw.....Fred

« Last Edit: February 01, 2020, 06:04:13 PM by flehto »
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Offline Marcruger

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #17 on: February 01, 2020, 04:39:42 AM »
"When I visited Blake at Old Salem (no power tools or modern jigs used there) he showed me a simple depth gauge."

Blake a very smart, patient and sharing man.  Glad he's around.  God Bless,   Marc
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Offline curly

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #18 on: February 08, 2020, 04:29:14 AM »
After I get my lay out mark on the stock, I use a drill press and a 1/16" end mill to keep things exactly straight. Drill bits
 bend and wander, end mills won't. Even if you don't make it thru the lug, at least you have a straight hole for your longer drill bit.
                   
                       Curly
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Offline flehto

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Re: Drilling Jig
« Reply #19 on: February 10, 2020, 04:32:20 PM »
When drilling the pin holes for bbl lugs and RR pipes as related above, I'm fortunate that my drill press spindle and chuck have zero runout  and I only use new, sharp drills......previously I sharpened the drills but due to bad eyesight, no longer do it which is also  the reason I no longer build.

Also....precautions are in order when doing the actual drilling......approaching the bbl lug and RR pipe lug should be anticipated by slowing down the hand   "feed" so the drill isn't deflected and instead freely seeks its own location. Also....the spindle speed should be suitable for a 1/16 drill.....I opt for 1325 RPM among the 8 speeds available on my drill press. Only hi speed drills are used....don't like carbon drills. Also....buy the drills from  tool supply sources.....many times, packaged drills from hardware stores are of poor quality...bent shanks  render a small dia drill useless.

I always check the drilled hole locations  on the opposite side  and they always exit  quite close to the ones on the  starting side.

The experienced builders know all this, but perhaps it will help beginners and some not so experienced builders. …...Fred
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