Author Topic: Soldering problem (Read 4636 times)

LynnC · « **Reply #25 on:** January 28, 2020, 01:11:47 AM »

Success. Tinning bbl worked. Sight stuck to bbl good and tight.

I think Stophel had it figured out. Never got bbl hot enough.

I bought the solder and flux years ago for copper plumbing and have used it on everything ever since. The solder is lead free (95 tin 5 antimony i think) and the paste flux Oatley no. 95 lead free tinning flux with 8% silver lead free solder in it. On back it says it has zinc chloride and ammonium chloride in it. Im guessing thats the acids.

Anyway it worked. Finally....

The sight is more the old barley corn type. Tiniest thing i ever tried to solder to bbl and i reckon thats why the sight tinned with the heat coming round the bbl. I never had trouble doing RR pipes to under ribs or such.

Thanks for all the good advise. Boy do i need practice.....Lynn

LynnC · « **Reply #26 on:** January 28, 2020, 01:17:27 AM »

Goo had it right too. Acid flux. I had never read the flux tin. I just used it for all my soldering jobs. Thanks Goo

Again thanks to all for the help...Lynn

Scota4570 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 28, 2020, 04:38:16 AM »

Glad it worked out. Yes, tin the surfaces first with acid flux and lead solder. I use a little ball of steel will held in pliers to work the solder on the metal to tin it evenly. After I wash of the acid flux and re flux with rosin. This avoids rust separating the joint later.

The first post mentioned, "Thin film of paste flux applied to mating surfaces " . That is release agent not flux. There is zero chance of the solder sticking when the surface is contaminated with oil or wax.

LynnC · « **Reply #28 on:** January 28, 2020, 05:08:48 AM »

Now Im confused.....if you dont flux the mating surfaces how do u get the solder to take to each surface? I thought the flux prevented oxidation of the metals including the solder so they would flow together.

I used the same tinning flux the whole time.

I put the acid paste flux on the underside of the tinned sight just before i soldered it to the tinned spot on the barrel. Is the tinning flux a wax or rosin?

No doubt im doing it wrong......but it stuck 😉

Stophel · « **Reply #29 on:** January 28, 2020, 05:19:57 AM »

You have to put flux on the surface before you try to put the solder on it.

I just use the ordinary gray greasy type flux for ordinary plumbing solder. I never could get rosin to work at all.

Once you're done soldering, the flux will dry and get ROCK hard. But it is water soluble, so dunk the part in water and let it melt the flux away.

LynnC · « **Reply #30 on:** January 28, 2020, 06:28:03 AM »

Yes. Thats the dark grey greasy stuff i have. It says 8% silver bearing solder in it. After soldering i wiped it off with a wet rag. Cleaned up easy.

I rarely have need to solder anything. It was my faulty technique and not the wrought iron barrel.

Learn something new every day 😉

elkhorne · « **Reply #31 on:** February 03, 2020, 03:50:37 AM »

I am going to have to solder some thin (0.025”) steel or (0.032”) brass barrel lugs on a Rice squirrel barrel and a Rice Southern Comfort barrel want to solder them instead of dovetailing them. I have some Dunton’s Norkorode Tinners Fluid that saves it contains hydrochloride acid and zinc chloride. Would that be a good flux to use with normal 50/50 lead/tin solder? Or, would there be a better solder to use? I also have some Fast 50/50 solder, Swift 95, and Stay Britt solders. Would one of those be better for this purpose. I look to all you soldering experts to learn the best and most effective for a novice. Thanks in advance to all!
elkhorne

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #32 on:** February 03, 2020, 05:15:12 PM »

Use this stuff, fool proof and you can't knock it loose with a hammer, (I tried).

LynnC · « **Reply #33 on:** February 03, 2020, 05:57:06 PM »

solder with a match or a lighter! Man i gotta try that. Im sure it needs a torch fir barrel work. Sounds to good to be true but if i can pick it up at wallyworld i will give a chance.

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #34 on:** February 03, 2020, 09:21:03 PM »

I couldn't find it locally so I ordered it off ebay.

I am working on a nightmarish precarve that has a 3/8" web at the breech. I had to add a piece to the DST to make it work. I use this solder, my second add on for a trigger bar, The first was on my first scratch build to take the slop out of the single trigger, years later the solder is still holding fast.

I know this looks awful but it works just fine, no more precarves for me.

Here is why I had to do the add on, I have posted it many times before. The precarve lock inlet put the bottom of the pan below the side flat, I added a piece to bring it up where it is supposed to be. If I went deeper with the triggers I would be in the ramrod channel with the trigger plate.

Stoner creek · « **Reply #35 on:** February 03, 2020, 09:58:09 PM »

RE Davis was making these triggers with extra meat and leaving them dead soft for easier shaping.

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #36 on:** February 04, 2020, 02:59:12 AM »

On another build I bent a long rear trigger to fit in the trigger guard properly. After I hardened it, without thinking I gave it a little tap to get just a little more bend out of it. Big mistake, the trigger broke in two. I called Davis, he was out of them and put my order on backorder, Track was out of them as well.

In the meantime I made a scarf joint on my trigger pieces and soldered them together with the solder paste shown above so I could use the rifle.

A month passed, then six and still no trigger from Davis, Track got them back in stock and I ordered one. A year later the replacement trigger is still in my parts tackle box, I will change the broken trigger out someday, it works pretty well like it is.

upload pic

sdilts · « **Reply #37 on:** February 04, 2020, 03:31:33 AM »

You can find Solder-It at Home Depot. This stuff is really easy to use. Just do not overheat.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 04, 2020, 05:13:54 AM »

Quote from: LynnC on January 28, 2020, 05:08:48 AM

Now Im confused.....if you dont flux the mating surfaces how do u get the solder to take to each surface? I thought the flux prevented oxidation of the metals including the solder so they would flow together.

I used the same tinning flux the whole time.

I put the acid paste flux on the underside of the tinned sight just before i soldered it to the tinned spot on the barrel. Is the tinning flux a wax or rosin?

No doubt im doing it wrong......but it stuck 😉

I am sorry, I read the OP as "PASTE WAX" instead of "paste flux". Dyslexia can be frustrating!

LynnC · « **Reply #39 on:** February 04, 2020, 08:47:05 AM »

Soldering can be frustrating too

STJ1954 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 04, 2020, 10:40:37 AM »

I have done a lot of soldering double barrel ribs which is steel to steel but I used liquid acid flux from Brownells. Rosin works for copper and brass. They also have several low temp solder. Acid flux will take the finish off.

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #41 on:** February 04, 2020, 05:19:32 PM »

The low temp solder is called TIXX, Brownell's has it. Good for soldering the fine silver strips used for decorative inlays,

elkhorne · « **Reply #42 on:** February 05, 2020, 12:12:24 AM »

Last year I got a bunch of solder from my father-in-law but have no idea what is is composed of. My best guess is that it is probably 50/50 lead/tin solder as he worked most of his life for the phone company. Does anyone know a way to test the solder to confirm if it contains lead? If it is lead, there appear from this article that there are lots better choices out on the market today. Thanks!
elkhorne

Clark Badgett · « **Reply #43 on:** February 05, 2020, 03:13:29 AM »

Elkhorne, I've always heard that the 50/50 and 60/40 is the best stuff.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #44 on:** February 05, 2020, 07:53:56 PM »

Quote from: elkhorne on February 05, 2020, 12:12:24 AM

Last year I got a bunch of solder from my father-in-law but have no idea what is is composed of. My best guess is that it is probably 50/50 lead/tin solder as he worked most of his life for the phone company. Does anyone know a way to test the solder to confirm if it contains lead? If it is lead, there appear from this article that there are lots better choices out on the market today. Thanks!
elkhorne

Get a lead test kit from the home center. Draw on paper with your solder. Draw on other paper with known lead, say a 22 bullet. Test your marks with the lead tester. Purple is positive.

I prefer lead-tin solder it seems to work easier that the new tin-silver blends. At least for me. Lead solder has been used for centuries with good results. Newer or better may have to do with anti lead hysteria? The eutectic solders are not as strong.

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Author Topic: Soldering problem (Read 4636 times)