Author Topic: cleaning and patch lube ingredients  (Read 15177 times)

reklaus

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cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« on: July 26, 2009, 09:32:35 PM »
This is a question for the actual chemists out there. I have been collecting "formulas" for cleaning solutions and patch lube for the last couple of months. There are several formulas that share common ingredients. My questions are:
1. What makes Murphy' Oil Soap so popular, and what does it do that dish washing detergent won't do? (both in cleaning and as a patch lube.)

2. The Hydrogen Peroxide that I find on the shelf of the drug stores is 3% solution. In the various "formulas" I've seen, the highest consentration works out to 1% (that formulas being 1 part each Murphy's, rubbing alcohol, and Hydrogen Peroxide). Does this small amount actually do anything including promote rusting?

3. One formula used Wichhazel in it. What would Wichhazel do for cleaning a BP muzzleloader?

Thanks for the info
R.E. Klaus
 

Offline LynnC

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2009, 10:20:16 AM »
I tried several MOS mixes as patch lubes.  When cleaning after shooting I noticed that the patched jag felt like it was grabbing. It was sticky brown goop in the grooves.  Carb cleaner and elbow grease got it out.  Never again......
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2009, 04:42:23 PM »
Most of this stuff falls into the snake oil category.
BP fouling is easily soluble in water. Water with a little wetting agent is also good.
Mixing all sort of chemicals may actually REDUCE the cleaning efficiency.
The problem with all this stuff is that often it is also corrosive and must be washed out of the bore as well.

There are a host of different lubes and non-lubes used as shooting patch lubricant.
Some are problematical. Some are just marketed as something to sell. Some are claimed to "season" a bore which is snake oil of the highest order. ANYTHING that builds up in a barrel is bad.
If the shooter uses a petroleum oil for a patch lube he may run into excessive caking of the fouling.
Thus a oil like *pure neatsfoot oil* is a better choice for oil users.
Various things like hand cleaners, soaps, water, spit etc etc are used with good results by various shooters.
Some of these will allow shooting all day with no wiping. But I would rather do a little cleaning now and then. There are factors related to shooting too long and building up fouling in the breech that make this a good decision for *me*. I decided 30 years ago to not use spit or water for patch lube. I see no reason to change.
I tend to used neatfoot oil, sperm whale oil or a mix of these and beeswax.
If you wipe everyshot a lube like SPG Bullet lube will work well and may produce best accuracy.

Dan
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Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2009, 04:49:35 PM »
As young Dan says some shooters keep it simple..

Being one such, I use spit patch lube - did I say I'm also cheap...

Cleaning I use simple green 20% to 80% water.  Not because it cleans better than plain water; but because it makes a good hand cleaner and since its coloured folks tend to think I know what I'm doing :D

Offline T*O*F

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2009, 06:52:54 PM »
Regarding this whole patch lube thing, I think they are for ease of loading rather than for actual lubrication for firing. 

How many of you have fired your gun and immediately recovered the fired patch.  Is there any lube on it?  Most are dry as a bone, regardless of what's used.  How far up the barrel do you think it travels before it disappears and no longer provides any lubrication.

Everybody shoot your favorite lube, recover the patch, and report back if your patch still has any lube on it or not.  Any that do have provided lubrication for the length of the barrel.  Any that don't are no better than using a dry patch.
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Offline LynnC

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2009, 07:23:15 PM »
I'll pretty much agree TOF - Lube is for ease of loading and to soften the fowling from the previous shot.  It probably keeps the patch from burning upon firing.  Dried out patches I have shot sometimes smouldered.

My Recovered spit patches are slightly damp - not sloppy wet like when loaded.

RE Klaus,
I notice you wanted actual chemists - their are a few here.
Actual experience is all I have to go on.

Most of the MOS mixes I tried loaded smooth as glass.  Cleaning revealed a build-up in the grooves.

I want my barrel clean when I'm done and sticky brown "varnish" in the grooves just won't cut it.

It was a real job to get it back to clean metal.  Others here can verify this phenomenon.  If you use a MOS lube and think you have no build-up, Double patch a jag and run it in and out.  It'll show....................Lynn

BTW - Sorry for the short reply on my first post - It was all I could manage with the itsy-bitsy keys on a Blackberry ::)
« Last Edit: July 27, 2009, 07:26:52 PM by Lynn Cook »
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2009, 10:41:08 PM »
Regarding this whole patch lube thing, I think they are for ease of loading rather than for actual lubrication for firing. 

How many of you have fired your gun and immediately recovered the fired patch.  Is there any lube on it?  Most are dry as a bone, regardless of what's used.  How far up the barrel do you think it travels before it disappears and no longer provides any lubrication.

Everybody shoot your favorite lube, recover the patch, and report back if your patch still has any lube on it or not.  Any that do have provided lubrication for the length of the barrel.  Any that don't are no better than using a dry patch.


The lube is blown off the patch after in clears the muzzle at high speed. So this test is a waste of time.
Where I live if the humidity is 10-20% as it often is in summer, just looking for a patch gives time enough for any water to evaporate.

If you want a valid test run a ball down a unbreeched barrel and then push back out the muzzle or push it straight through and look at the bore so see if it shows indication of lubrication. This will give an accurate representation.
It does not take a great deal of oil to provide lubrication in this case, just a film.

Dan
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Offline Randy Hedden

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2009, 11:19:16 PM »
The lube is blown off the patch after in clears the muzzle at high speed. So this test is a waste of time.
Where I live if the humidity is 10-20% as it often is in summer, just looking for a patch gives time enough for any water to evaporate.

If you want a valid test run a ball down a unbreeched barrel and then push back out the muzzle or push it straight through and look at the bore so see if it shows indication of lubrication. This will give an accurate representation.
It does not take a great deal of oil to provide lubrication in this case, just a film.

Dan

Dan,

I think you should reconsider what you said here.  TOF is setting up a normal situation of firing a muzzleloader that includes the heat and flame from the burning of the powder charge.  You scenario does not include any heat of flame??  You and TOF must be talking about something entirely different.

Randy Hedden
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Offline hanshi

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2009, 12:14:52 AM »
I think TOF brings up a valid point.  I HAVE picked up patches immediately after firing, finding most a little damp and some feeling dry.  I would also think the heat of firing has at least some effect on lubed patches.

Realistically, lubrication is not needed for prb and in some cases may be a detriment to accuracy.  Lubes are necessary when lead is pressed against the bore interior but in round ball rifles, no lead comes in contact with the bore metal.  The patch spins the ball and is the only thing contacting the bore.  Bullets, on the other hand, lead the bore badly unless lubed well. 

This leads me to believe lubes are indeed useful for making multiple reloads possible and keeping the fouling in check but that's about all.  Esoteric lube formulas are, I agree, mostly snake oil.  With lubes, simpler is better.  Crisco, plant/animal oils, mixtures of these with beeswax, some commercial lubes are pretty straight forward.  Each has it's advocates and there are a couple I prefer.  For my own use I want to be able to load easily many times before I have to wipe; others might expect something else for their trouble.  It comes down to what brings success to your shooting.
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Offline Randy Hedden

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #9 on: July 28, 2009, 12:20:46 AM »
This is a question for the actual chemists out there. I have been collecting "formulas" for cleaning solutions and patch lube for the last couple of months. There are several formulas that share common ingredients. My questions are:
1. What makes Murphy' Oil Soap so popular, and what does it do that dish washing detergent won't do? (both in cleaning and as a patch lube.)

2. The Hydrogen Peroxide that I find on the shelf of the drug stores is 3% solution. In the various "formulas" I've seen, the highest concentration works out to 1% (that formulas being 1 part each Murphy's, rubbing alcohol, and Hydrogen Peroxide). Does this small amount actually do anything including promote rusting?

3. One formula used Wichhazel in it. What would Wichhazel do for cleaning a BP muzzleloader?

Thanks for the info
R.E. Klaus
 

I am not the chemist you asked for, but here is my say anyhow.

Years ago, the original moosemilk was formulated by mixing water soluble oil with water to make a lubricant/cleaner for muzzle loading rifles.  The mixture was dubbed moosemilk because of the milky look of the mixture.  As little as 25-30 years water soluble oil, which was used as a coolant/lube for machining steel and cast iron, became hard to find because new and better synthetic  coolant/lubricants came on the market and made water soluble oil hard to find.  Every machine shop did not change over to the synthetics, but little by little the old water soluble oil was replaced by the synthetics.  One of the big problems of using water soluble oil for a lubricant/cutting oil in machine was that it got dirty very fast and smell like a dead cow that had laid in a field for a couple of weeks.  On machines with an coolant tank, the synthetic coolants could be recycled, added to, and maintain the lubricity  with not much of any smell to it and it worked better than water soluble oil.

About this time I was trying moosmilk and was looking for a replacement for the water soluble oil and I started using Murphy's oil soap in its stead.  I shared this with everyone I knew who used moosemilk.  I am not claiming that I was the only one to start using Murphy's, but several years later some guys who had been to Friendship came back with a formula for Friendship Moosemilk made with Murphy's. Murphy's is probably better because the base for Murphy's is vegetable oil and not a petroleum product.

Since then, and probably always, guys have tried to formulate a better moosemilk by adding stuff to the original moosemilk formula.  

Here is the skinny on lubricants and cleaners.  All of the residue left from burnt black powder is soluble in water and nothing more is needed when cleaning your rifle.  The kicker here is that when you start adding other ingredients to any  formula they are what leaves a residue that won't budge with just plain old cold water.  If you spit patch like I do 99% of the time you don't need anything but cold water for cleanup. Now if you add a petroleum based product to your lube then you have to find something that will dissolve the residue left by that product.  Hence all the various additives that guys use in their formula.

Hydrogen peroxide is an additive that many shooters used to use, but it wasn't really needed if you spit patch and did not do much for removal of burnt petroleum products.  I believe there was also a safety warning about using hydrogen peroxide issued by the NMLRA.  If I remember correctly, lubes with hydrogen peroxide tend to explode if left in the sun, like on an uncovered shooting bench.

I have never used Witch Hazel, but it is used as an astringent to clean the face, treat bruises, hemorrhoids, sprains, skin problems, internal injuries and bleeding. It doesn't seem to me that any of my rifles have any of these problems so why would myself, or anyone else, want to put it into a lube??

Coinciding with the use of petroleum based lubes was the use of breech plug scrapers.  I have shoot muzzle loaders for way over 40 years and have NEVER  had any residue form on my breech plug face that didn't come out with ordinary cold water. but then, like I said, I normally spit patch. I have had the occasion to pull the breech plug on several of my rifles and they are always as clean as when I installed them.

I don't suppose any of this has helped you?  What you need to do is formulate a cleaner that will dissolve the particular type of lube that is leaving the residue in your barrel.  All lube/cleaners are not created equal.

Randy Hedden
 




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Offline Ben I. Voss

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2009, 03:22:49 AM »
Randy, I've always been puzzled by the need for a breach plug scraper - I never get any fowling build up on the breech plug worth worrying about either. Never thought about it being caused by petroleum based lubes.

DEADDAWG

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #11 on: July 28, 2009, 04:05:32 AM »
I use a scraper when cleaning. I use it to push a wadded up patch against the breach plug and turn it at the bottom. It's great to pick up that last little bit of dirt and moisture that is against the breech plug. After that I use a patch worm to pull the dirty patch back out. Maybe it's overkill, but I know my breech plug is clean.

Offline Randy Hedden

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #12 on: July 28, 2009, 04:40:00 AM »
Deaddawg,

You getting a bit of residue on a patch when using a breech plug scraper might have to do with different cleaning methods that each of us use? It might also be because we are using different lubes?

Randy Hedden
« Last Edit: July 28, 2009, 04:41:10 AM by Randy Hedden »
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Offline LynnC

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #13 on: July 28, 2009, 05:10:45 AM »
Randy H.'

Why would anyone use witchhazel in a patch lube ?   'Cause it smells good ;D
« Last Edit: July 28, 2009, 05:13:41 AM by Lynn Cook »
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DEADDAWG

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #14 on: July 28, 2009, 05:34:59 AM »
Randy,

I'm getting very little residue, probably not enough to matter. Mostly what I'm getting out is the moisture from the last water rinse, before I warm it and oil it for storage.

Rick

Offline Dphariss

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #15 on: July 28, 2009, 09:16:39 AM »




Dan,

I think you should reconsider what you said here.  TOF is setting up a normal situation of firing a muzzleloader that includes the heat and flame from the burning of the powder charge.  You scenario does not include any heat of flame??  You and TOF must be talking about something entirely different.

Randy Hedden

I think TOF is wrong about this and I am trying to explain MY views.
If I understand him correctly he is saying that the lube does not coat the bore I say it does. I doubt that any or all of it burns off in front of the ball either so there is an oil film for the patch to run on. Behind the ball the pressure level and the heat is likely enough to burn the oil.
I could be wrong but doubt it based on experience.
Try this shoot a few shots with the rifle loaded normally to foul the bore slightly then try loading it with a dry patch, nothing on it. Its likely to stick.

I think it is impossible to "dry" Sperm Whale Oil off  a patch without burning it. Its a liquid wax, it does not "dry" as a water based lube will. It soaks into the fibers. Now a high intensity blast of air make physically force it off the patch. But so far as the interior of the bore is concerned I don't think this is a factor. In using soft grease made with Sperm Whale oil and beeswax I often find some partly burn powder on the patch if I grease heavily.
Nor will Neatsfoot oil dry in the time frame we are discussing. Pick up a fired patch lubed with oil and wipe it on a window and see if it leaves a smear of oil. Will have to try this next time out.

Some rifles shoot with spit or what ever. Some will shoot very well with grease or oil. Some shoot really well with teflon impregnated patches I really doubt the teflon dries out or burns off.
I suspect that an accurate rifle will shoot about as well with one as another with load development. But rifles can be pretty individualistic and it will likely have "sweet" load but only testing will prove what it is.
Ned Roberts  Bear Oil or Sperm Whale oil. Ned was a rifleman who used MLs when he was young.
Some slug gun shooters and BPCR shooters will lube the paper patches used on the bullets.
Saying that the patch lube does not lube the bore because the patches are dry when recovered does not consider everything.

I don't like water based "lubes".  Some folks love them. I don't. I load my rifle the same for everything. Thus I don't have to contend with some impact point change due to a wild change in the lubricating properties of one lube over another.
I like oiled patches for hunting for obvious reasons.
Some picket bullet shooters will wipe the bore with the lubricant used on the patches before loading the powder.

ALL THESE THINGS WORK. How well they work will depend on the rifle and several other variables.

Past bedtime in Montana.
Dan

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catman

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #16 on: July 29, 2009, 05:15:42 AM »
With straight rindered bear oil patches I can pick up my patches and use them again. Bear oil's the best lube I have ever came across.

William Worth

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #17 on: July 29, 2009, 04:44:17 PM »
Question for those experiencing a bad bore residue when using MOS; at what concentration are you using the MOS?  Would a weaker solution resolve this?

Offline LynnC

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #18 on: July 29, 2009, 09:26:08 PM »
When I tried several of  the MOS mixes the percentage was anywhere between 10 and 33% depending on recipe.

Over 2 or 3 range sessions testing diff lubes, I noticed the residue in the grooves.

After cleaning it out I tried some of the same recipes with out the MOS - No brown goop in the grooves.  Of course it didn't load near as smooth as when MOS was in the mix.

So much for the homemade super lubes..........I've pretty much gone back to spit on the range and grease if hunting.

Personally, I'll NEVER use any lube containing ANY MOS again!

Too much work to clean it out and I didn't want to find out what would happen if I left it in the bore!

Their were some lively discussions about "brown goop" or "varnish" in the bore.
A search in the archives may answere a lot of you questions.

Anyway - You mileage may vary..........................Lynn

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William Worth

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #19 on: July 31, 2009, 06:12:53 PM »
Lynn;

Upon further looking into this, could the brown goop that you developed in your bore have been rosin?  That being the case, alcohol and maybe turpentine would be the solvents of choice.

I'm getting all worked up for more patch lube study with things like: rosin, oleoresins, turpentine and essential oils being the key words to investigate further.

I'm getting down to the last of my LHV lube and frankly NOTHING else works like it.  The stuff is the elixir of accuracy, loading and bore protection.
« Last Edit: July 31, 2009, 06:13:41 PM by William Worth »

Offline LynnC

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #20 on: July 31, 2009, 07:50:05 PM »
Oh no William, I tried every solvent in the tool shed ( lacquer thinner, Alchohol, turpentine, penetrating oils, concentrated soaps and a couple others I can't remember now) that I could find and finally went to town to get carb cleaner that barely did the job with MUCH elbow grease.

I even had kind offers to send me various industrial solvents!  :o

I'm sure one of you fellows out there will invent the next version of Leigh Valley Lube, but I guarantee it won't have MOS in it.  If plain water or with a lil dish soap in it won't clean out the fowling, I won't be uing that lube recipe.

Good Luck  ;D
« Last Edit: July 31, 2009, 07:54:19 PM by Lynn Cook »
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Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #21 on: July 31, 2009, 08:40:41 PM »
AS posted over time, beware the MOS.  Works fine for a 'while' then flyers result!!


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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #22 on: July 31, 2009, 10:25:36 PM »
Most of this thread has dealt with patch lubes used while shooting and that has been interesting.  I would love to try some of the original Shenandoah, oops, Lehigh.  

In the initial post Reklaus also asked about cleaning solutions.  Several have replied that plain water cleans well as long as the patch lube doesn't contain something the water can't cut.

Ok, then how come plain water won't wash the black residue off my hands at the end of a day of shooting?  I have to use soap to get my hands clean.  Why would the bore of my rifle be any different?  

I'm using patches sloppy wet with spit for all shooting except hunting.  After cleaning I wipe the bore with WD40 or Barricade, but I run patches until they come out dry before I start a shooting session.

I'm using a little of Ma's dish soap in my cleaning water for now.  What do you use?

-Ron
« Last Edit: August 03, 2009, 11:28:29 PM by KyFlinter »
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Offline SCLoyalist

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #23 on: July 31, 2009, 10:45:30 PM »
Several have replied that plain water cleans well as long as the patch lube doesn't contain something the water can't cut.

Ok, then how come plain water won't wash the black residue off my hands at the end of a day of shooting?  I have to use soap to get my hands clean.  Why would the bore of my rifle be any different?  
-Ron

Pretty good question.  All that comes to mind for an answer is that powder fouling on your hands is mixed with skin oils.    Plus, what's down the bore is the result of a  chemical reaction resulting from high temperature combustion, while what's on your hands is mostly from loose grains of powder getting mixed with and dissolved by humidity, moisture, oils, etc in the air and from your skin.  Skin may be more porous than barrel steel, too.  I've been using plain tap water to clean, and am content with the results.  My patches are either spit lubed or olive oil lubed, depending on the gun.
  
« Last Edit: July 31, 2009, 10:47:02 PM by SCLoyalist »

William Worth

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Re: cleaning and patch lube ingredients
« Reply #24 on: July 31, 2009, 11:01:08 PM »
Not to be contrary, but I just came in from having mixed up and tried out a batch of MOS and Pine-Sol solution.  I mixed about 5 oz. of condensed water from the dehumidifier and a few drops of MOS and a few drops of Pine-Sol.  I'll hazard a guess that this yielded me a <5% solution of the solvents to solute (water).  That solution was barely slippery between two clean fingers.

I shot it in a .45 cal. T/C percussion barrel that hasn't been fired for awhile and the groups seemed to trend toward tightening up and ease of loading improved as I was shooting.  It's been humid here, we got an inch and a half of rain last night and this morning, 78 degrees, 50yds.

Clean-up was very easy with no accumulation of anything in the bore noted.  I was using 50 grs 3F GOEX.  I fired a 20 gr. "Cleaning Shot" at the end of the shooting session.  Accuracy was OK but not stellar, could be the barrel.  Like I said, this barrel has been sitting awhile.

Next, I want to try the same mix minus the Pine-Sol.