Happy Bday and a couple of thoughts: Let us know where you are--Then we can direct you to some, if any, of your local or regional BP enthusiasts points of interest (shows, clubs, outfitters, makers, etc.). You might have some closer than you know, and in person viewing and handling of guns can tell you a lot about what you like.
Also it's quite likely that another hunter from your jurisdiction is on board and can advise as to the rules for your area.
As far as choosing a type/style of gun, consider your lineage and location and how you got there-perhaps you had relatives present in Early America and you might want a replica of what they might have used.
Finally, like most things, generally speaking the more you pay, the more you get: from production guns that hardly resemble anything historic more than a notion, to absolute knockout bench copies of fantastically historic and desirable guns with all hand-forged parts and engraving and carving. And there's a lot in the middle where you do need some knowledge and advice and dissent to get a good functional, and history-affirming gun. Because today's "good guns" are typically made by one or two folks rather than the cottage-industry production of the past, they do command a premium in prices. The more you understand about making one, the easier this is to appreciate.
Additionally: Accuracy is generally a function of developing a load for each and every individual gun there is. It takes decent bench skills to develop a load, but that's the only way to get best accuracy. Flinters require holding-through the shot just a fraction of a second longer than modern ignition systems. Took me a minute to adjust to that at first-having a lifetime of developing loads and benching the unmentionables. It's rare that any well-made flinter won't shoot plenty accurate for hunting. The inexpensive guns may have some reliability issues, but even they can launch balls into a nice group. (note I mean well-known production guns with long histories, not the super cheap imported replicas of late.)
The
developing a load concept is often difficult for new M/L guys to get, I suppose because they always thought ammo was ammo. It's not and it never was. Every gun likes a little different combination of components. Any component change may alter that-so when you find a good one, stock up on those components, and be prepared for different results if you change powder brand (or grade), ball, patch, or lube. Copying someone else's PET load will nearly never give you the great results their gun gets, but does give you a place to start and tweak from. I might be good enough, but often won't be best.
Some use super fine powders for priming the pan, others, like me, prefer to prime the pan with main-charge powder for simplicity and security. Security? you might ask. Yes, security in that the prime will
be there when the shot becomes available. The super fine priming-only powders can escape the confines of your pan (while hunting and moving around through the bush) if it is not perfectly fitted with the cover. Main charge powders don't slip out so easily. If you use one powder, you carry less gear. You can overwhelm yourself with gear if not careful. SEE Bob's BPTV Channel for some insights on that.
https://www.youtube.com/user/bhmack/videosBob's beginner level videos may help answer some of your questions. He might also use your feedback to design more content.
This is the right place, but also there will be differences of opinion on most everything-and that's okay. Just don't be un-informed or mis-informed. Carry on!
