Cheap, bit ugly, noisy, but very EFFECTIVE

[J. Talbert]

The saw was $99.00 plus shipping from Harbor Freight. (Comes in a nice molded carrying case). Added a Dewalt blade. Added 8 x 8" 1/4 " plate as a work table screwed into existing holes.  Stand made from wood scraps lying around the shop.

It doesn't  look very pretty but made short work of cutting out banana patch box pieces.  I should have done this a long time ago.

Oh, also this was the first time I used a new MA Ford counter sink bit, (to countersink the holes in the plate).  It worked like a charm with no chatter at all in cordless hand drill with no cutting oil.



Jeff

[FALout]

Did you put on the steel plate to use as a table surface?  I’ve seen before how people use these saws like your doing, not a bad idea.

[J. Talbert]

Falout,
Yes the steel plate replaced a smaller metal piece that comes on the saw, secured with two screws, and designed for use as a portable saw.

Jeff

[Greg Pennell]

Right on, Jeff!  Glad you found a solution.  I really need to make a better work table for mine, but it’s awfully convenient to just stick it back in the case when I’m not using it. I find myself using it more and more, cutting out trigger blanks, trigger plates, pieces for trigger guards and butt plates, heck even shortened a barrel once.

Greg

[Bustedknuckles]

I was a professional bladesmith for many years. A Milwaukee set up just like that was all i ever used! I think you're in good shape with that!

[J. Talbert]

Greg,
 The table is a pretty simple set up, but it does need to come off by removing the 2 screws to get the saw back in its case.
I may try to fasten a hold down clamp to the bottom of the plate to make it a quick release mechanism.

Jeff

[galudwig]

Several of us got turned on to these SWAG Portland tables when a guy showed up to one of our gun building classes with one. Add a foot switch and you are in business!

Nice if you still want to use your vise:



I mounted my Harbor Frieght Portaband in this one:

[Robert Wolfe]

Hey Gary, that might have been me! I love my SWAG table. I really like the foot switch. Build your own or buy one, either way they are very handy.

[WadePatton]

I sold one of those type saws because no one ever showed me these fixtures, nor did I think one up. 

But that's okay.

[J. Talbert]

 I'm curious. It appears on the swag table that the saw is mounted to the plate via two screws thru the plate into the body of the saw.  Thus the entire weight of the saw is hanging from those two screws. Is this correct?
Seems like a lot of weight hanging on those two screws that are approx 1 inch apart.

Jeff

[Robert Wolfe]

Jeff, I think that is right, two screws. But, mine holds pretty solid. I have had to tighten them up on occasion. The saw is not that heavy.

[BarryE]

I'm saving my spare change for this one.  Jeff, where did you find the blade for it?

[J. Talbert]

Barry

The blades came from Amazon

Jeff

[Justin Urbantas]

From the title of the post I thought you were talking about me.

[dogcatcher]

Will these saws cut up a table saw blade?  I had been making double headed axes out of 10 inch table saw blades with a grinder, but have gotten too old to handle the grinder. 

[Gunnermike]

Will these saws cut up a table saw blade?  I had been making double headed axes out of 10 inch table saw blades with a grinder, but have gotten too old to handle the grinder.

I've cut through 1-1/2" hot rolled material (it took awhile) with my 10-1/2 year old $70 Harbor Freight portable saw (got my money's worth out of it for sure).  You would probably need to use a 24 tpi bi-metal blade to cut a table saw blade.  The chinese blade that came with the saw would barely cut wood.  First thing you do is buy good blades and second is buy a SWAG top, it really makes a difference.

My saw is very noisy & I wear earplugs or shooting muffs when using it or my tinnitus starts screaming.

Here's my old saw with a SWAG top -

Mike

ps - I wouldn't have able to build this guy without that bandsaw - it really makes a difference in what you can turn out over time.

[galudwig]

Hey Gary, that might have been me! I love my SWAG table. I really like the foot switch. Build your own or buy one, either way they are very handy.

The first one I saw was the one Bill Mills brought to class; maybe back in 2016. I think we used yours for the past several years though. I finally got one for Christmas this year and have used to for more than just gunbuilding projects.

Yeah, they can be noisy, but it sure beats the screech of a hacksaw blade.

[galudwig]

I'm curious. It appears on the swag table that the saw is mounted to the plate via two screws thru the plate into the body of the saw.  Thus the entire weight of the saw is hanging from those two screws. Is this correct?
Seems like a lot of weight hanging on those two screws that are approx 1 inch apart.

Jeff

On the full table model like I have, the plate is mounted in place of the standard guide plate that comes with the saw. The plate itself is ~ 6.5" x6.5" and fits within a recessed area of the 13" x 13" table top. The plate is held to the table with a knob-handled screw, so you can remove the saw from the table to store it separately, if desired. Mine won't fit back in the original case, but none of my power tools are ever stored in cases anyway. Yes, it uses two screws to hold the plate in place and the support the weight of the saw. But as Robert said, the saw isn't that heavy.

Please understand that I wasn't being critical of your solution in any way (it's definitely the least pricy). I just wanted to make people aware of other options.

[J. Talbert]

Galudwig,
No offense taken.
I'm still considering one of the swag tables down the road.  Storage space is one of my concerns, but I am also concerned about all the weight of the saw hanging on those two screws.  Unlike you and Robert, I was somewhat surprised by the weight of the saw, and am concerned that the total weight is hanging from two small screws.
I'm guessing some of you guys have been using that set up for some time.  That is reassuring.

Jeff

[BarryE]

That won't take long..... did it?! I have a talented cousin who can make me a plate for it.  Cool and Thanks for the tip!

[J. Talbert]

Well having the saw changed my mind to add a banana patchbox to the current project. Cutting it out was a snap.

Unfortunately now I'm dealing with bending the hinge, cutting the knuckles, and bending the box to match the stock contour. Yuck!   

Oh well, still looking forward to making lots of future tasks much easier.

Jeff

[RJD-VT]

Thanks Jeff.
My hand hacksaws now = pain after a lifetime of arm and shoulder abuse.
It looks like this is just the ticket. I got my sights set on a Dewalt.
It won’t be long now before my wife wants some hot roll cut for a fancy garden project and then Voila... 

[Rolf]

I have very little expirience With metal bandsaws. Does not friction from the blade make the part cut to hot to hold? I'd think that would be a problem cutting 1/4 -1/2 inch steel.

Best regards
Rolf

[J. Talbert]

Rolf,
So far heat has not been excessive in the items I have cut, including some sheet steel for a patchbox and some quarter inch thick angle iron.  Neither got too hot to hold.

Jeff

[Gunnermike]

I have very little expirience With metal bandsaws. Does not friction from the blade make the part cut to hot to hold? I'd think that would be a problem cutting 1/4 -1/2 inch steel.
Best regards
Rolf

Rolf, you are correct; the steel heats up quickly on cuts over 1/2" long.  I'm currently making a replacement sear for a 1794 Nock Screwless musket lock (5-1/2" lock plate) from 1/2" thick steel.  I have a small plastic container of water that I dunk the part in when it gets too hot to hold.  I wipe the part to remove most of the water and it has not affected the steel top or the cutting action.  I also always use a wood push stick to control the cut on small pieces - still have all my fingers at this point.
Mike