Author Topic: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!  (Read 1524 times)

Offline Prospector8083

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Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« on: February 24, 2020, 07:34:31 PM »
I am working on a Kibler Colonial and have noticed the beautiful moldings and beavertails on the rifles pictured on the forum. How do you make those knowing that I am working from a kit?

Offline Ky-Flinter

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2020, 07:52:50 PM »
Hi Prospector,

I don't mean this as a smart aleck answer, but you do them the same way whether you are building a Kibler kit or from a plank.  Install all parts and bring the stock to it's final dimensions, sometimes called "finished in the white", then draw your carving designs on the stock, sharpen up your gouges and chisels and go to work.

-Ron
Ron Winfield

Life is too short to hunt with an ugly gun. -Nate McKenzie

Offline Scota4570

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2020, 08:29:20 PM »
It seems like a rat tail file or dowel wrapped in sand paper would work.  Not for me.  1 in a bunch of strokes slips and takes out the crisp edge I was trying to achieve. 

More and more I use contoured scrapers.  I make them from clock spring, more specifically Victrola motor springs.  It is blue spring stock in a roll.  1" and thick enough to have a only a slight flex.  I cut it with tin snips and then make the contour I need on the grinder.  I then sharpen but do not roll and edge. 

Offline smart dog

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2020, 09:08:12 PM »
Hi,
With the Kibler kit you are at the exact right stage to shape moldings around the lock panels.  Most inexperienced builders try cutting those molding way too early and the result looks terrible.  Kibler's kits are essentially ready for final sanding and staining, which is the stage to do carving and moldings.  Do not have at it with a rat tailed file, or a deep gouge, or sandpaper wrapped around a file or dowel.  First, draw the edges of your moldings and beaver tails on the stock.  The actual flats around the lock and side plate should be very narrow, <1/8", and your molding extends from those flats.  Practice drawing until you can make smooth lines and curves.  Once the lines are drawn on the stock, either use a "V" chisel to cut the edge or stab in the edge with a small flat chisel. Once you marked the edges with cuts, then back cut into that edge with a flat or skew to remove the background and create the slight raised shoulder forming the edge of the molding. It does not have to be very high perhaps 1/32 of an inch.  Smooth the background and blend it into the contours of the stock then finish shaping the molding.  They can be a flat slope or have a slight concave surface but don't go over board on the radius of the cove.  The rat tailed file and curved scraper can be useful for shaping a cove particularly around the front of the lock panel.

dave
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Offline Prospector8083

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2020, 09:32:43 PM »
Thank you smart dog! That is exactly what I wanted to know whether to make a cut or just try and sand it. I will keep the moldings thin too. Beavertails seem mighty popular, were they prevalent back in the day?

Offline deepcreekdale

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2020, 03:37:26 AM »
Look at pictures of originals for how prevalent beavertail moldings were. Since you are new at this, and are trying to do it right, you need to start working on your library. You can never have too many books. I think most of us would suggest you start with Rifles of Colonial America by Shumway. I might be a little bit dated but in general has about the best variety of early guns to study.
”Far and away the best prize that life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.” Theodore Roosevelt

Offline Nordnecker

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2020, 02:27:44 PM »
My advice to you is to practice on something other than your stock. Until you can pull it off on a scrap, don't try it on your stock.
"I can no longer stand back and allow communist infiltration, communist indoctrination and the international communist conspiracy to sap and impurify our precious bodily fluids."- Gen Jack T. Ripper

Offline Prospector8083

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2020, 09:52:42 PM »
Thank you for the advice and yes I do want to do it correctly and properly and yes I will practice on a piece of wood. I am learning basic colonial engraving too so I hope to use it on a couple rifles after a I get good enough. That is a challenge and will take a LOT of practice!

Offline flinchrocket

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Re: Lockplate and Sideplate moldings!
« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2020, 10:34:51 PM »
Get a Carving Practice Kit from Kibler.