Author Topic: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B  (Read 1383 times)

Offline thecapgunkid

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THIS IS THE SECOND PART OF A POST . THERE ARE TWO PARTS TO THIS POST BECAUSE MY EXCEPTIONALLY POOR PLANNING AND RUN ON  OF THE KEYBORD FLOODED THE PREVIEW SUB PROGRAM.   Putz…
Anyway, the previous post showed a product called Hirschkleber. 


I used it in this work in progress for a belt bag where I wanted to skive and fold the edge of the flap, per the pictures below.  You can see in the first pic that the edge is uneven…bulging at one of the rounded corners.  You can also see in the second pic where, on the lining side, I tore open the seam to even it out.  Pull it open and re-glue it and the glue will hold fast without being as stubborn as contact cement  or as weak as rubber cement.
The third pic shows the edge rounded a little more evenly.  I can put it down, come back and get it right when I have time because the glue enables reworking with it.  P.S., Hopefully the patina and surface of the third photo, courtesy of the Deglazer ( also from the previous post) will be evident.









I’ll assemble and  finish this bag in a later post because I want to wet mold it and that’s a separate topic.

In the meantime, recall the idea we started with; that finish work is so important...

It’s not just what you put on the surface of the leather.  It’s in the attention to detail behind something like folding over the edge of a flap, for example.  So, I tell you what…I plagiarized some pics from posts right here in this forum section because they are exemplary.   So, for the newbies who post in this section,  I stole some stuff we all ought to be looking at
Look at this bag from a James Rogers post.  Look how neatly his stitching at the top of the bag front and along the edge of the flap sits so close to the edge of the binding strip itself.  That’s finish work.  If you’re as good as James is, you may not even have to skive the strip, but one should strive to get the stitching evenly spaced and balanced with the edge.



 Here’s one by Marcruger where the strip  at the top  of the front is rolled over the top and tightly stitched underneath the roll.   That’s finish work.  I don’t even know if he skived that strip, but the roll is so neat and even that it becomes an objective to emulate the next time I do that.  The  strip  is also a good place to skive


Lastly, head over to this post by TC Albert that shows the detail of a dead on welted seam on a great looking bag he crafted.  That’s finish work.  You can’t tell whether this is skived or not.  Although skiving is a good way to make a turned seam easier to work,  look at how easy it is to look at on a bag because it is so even.  That’s the end result.



These are just recently posted….within two or three days of each other, but they clearly show the half of progress you can make by viewing somebody else’s work.  The other half is by correcting mistakes.  I will wrestle with the edge of my little belt bag to get it right before assembly, and would welcome advice on an easier way to do this fold.

Tight Stitches
The Capgun Kid
AKA The Still River Cordwainer


Offline Brokennock

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2020, 03:48:59 PM »
Thank.you for sharing these. Question based on your statement about correcting mistakes. What caused the bulge in that corner? Knowing how it got there would indicate how to fix it.

Offline Mike from OK

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2020, 09:16:15 PM »
Maybe it's just me but I like the aroma of Barge or Tanner's Bond... In a limited fashion. I still open the window.

Perhaps the smell takes me back to my youth and the smell of Tester's model cement and assembling model planes.

Mike

Offline thecapgunkid

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2020, 12:03:34 PM »
Brokennock...Question based on your statement about correcting mistakes. What caused the bulge in that corner? Knowing how it got there would indicate how to fix it.

Probably rushed the job a little.  I'm also pretty sure the lighting wasn't that good when I originally folded it over.  So that particular type of glue helped the correction before I goofed up the next step.

Offline Mike from OK

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2020, 01:52:44 AM »
Regarding the welt in the photo of TC's bag... Is that just a regular flat leather welt between the two halves of the bag? (Similar to the welt in a knife sheath)

I realize that sounds like a dumb question but I just want to make sure there is something I'm not missing.

Has it ever been common practice to fold the welt in half and sew both edges between the two halves of the bag so that the welt appears rounded when the bag is turned?

Mike

Offline thecapgunkid

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2020, 01:40:06 PM »
I can't speak for the way TC Albert built the welt in the photo  ( maybe he'll reply here)  but I've never heard of a welt being anything other than a one-piece strip whether skived or not.  It is an interesting question, tho.  Maybe some more detail on it?...


Offline James Rogers

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2020, 02:41:27 PM »
A rolled welt is common on saddle work. It can also house a cord for more of a  piping look. I use rolled welts almost exclusively to represent  the work of a professional saddler. I have noticed in the last couple of years, some bag makers have also adopted the look ; )

Here are some  English saddle welts






Offline Mike from OK

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2020, 09:54:01 PM »
Thank you James. Those rolled welts look mighty intricate. I assume they must be skived pretty thin to achieve such a fine roll.

Mike

Offline Nordnecker

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Re: Every Man A Cobbler 6 ; Skiving, Glues and Stinky Stuff Part B
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2020, 02:24:28 PM »
That's some beautiful and thoughtful work, for sure.
"I can no longer stand back and allow communist infiltration, communist indoctrination and the international communist conspiracy to sap and impurify our precious bodily fluids."- Gen Jack T. Ripper