1770s British Rifled Officer's Fusil FINISHED

[Pukka Bundook]

Beautriful work as always Dave.

I Know that sideplate!.. but will have to look at the book , as the name won't come.
Joseph Alley comes to mind, but I'm likely wrong.
Very distinctive and a grand choice!

[smart dog]

Hi,
It's been a while.  I've had a lot of Spring chores to do and other gun projects.  I also put the officer's fusil aside to consider my plan for decoration and prepare.  I decided to be ambitious and consequently, I needed to plan and practice .  I am fearless when it comes to growing my skills and experience, but I always have great anxiety when I decide to exercise that fearlessness.  I worry about screwing up so I plan, practice, and then execute, always doing the best I can even if the result is flawed.

I finished detailed shaping of the stock and painted it with dilute stain made from black aniline dye dissolved in water.  I then scraped off the black, which revealed all the scratches and tool marks.  However, the black stain embeds in the open pores of the wood and will highlight the grain when I put finish on the gun.  The next step was drawing the carving around the standing breech tang and cutting in the outline.  I chose a rococo shell rolling in from one side as the motif.  I love that design but haven't carved it in a while.  After cutting and smoothing the background, I left cutting the details until later.

I wanted to checker the wrist in the coarse fashion used by British gun makers during the 1770s.  The large diamonds are flat topped and the grooves look to be cut with a checkering saw and then filed with a checkering riffler.  I made and used both tools to do the job. The photos below also show my checkering cradle.









I marked guidelines using pin striping tape and a plastic "diamond" template that I made.  I used a 60 degree single line cutter to cut those guidelines, then I used a 60 degree skip line cutter to make all the other lines.  The spacing was 1/8"  for the skip line tool.  Then I deepened every other line with the checkering saw and the checkering riffler.  That produced large diamonds 1/4" across divided into quadrants.  Eventually, each quadrant will have a dot.  It came out well although the lines do not match up perfectly side to side because the cast off in the stock makes the profile of one side of the wrist a little different from the other. 





Next, I cast a copy of a thumb escutcheon from one of my original 18th century fowlers.  After cleaning it up and chiseling details, I will inlet it on the wrist.  I think it will be spectacular with the checkering.  The photos show the original plate set in the stock but laying on the surface.  It gives you an idea of what the final product will look like if I don't screw it up.  These kinds of decoration are really sphincter puckering because you really can't fix them if you blow it.





dave

[Bob McBride]

Very little on this forum stuns me as much as your work Dave. My favorite threads. Hands down.

.....but I always have great anxiety when I decide to exercise that fearlessness

 
 

[smart dog]

Hi and Thanks Bob,
I appreciate the kind comments very much.  Here are the original wrist plate and 2 copies.  I cast the copies using the Delft clay casting system, which is essentially sand casting with a fine clay.  I've described the method in other threads and it really gives me a lot of freedom because I am not restricted to the few designs available from commercial sources.



.  I cleaned up one of the copies and readied it for inletting.  That process involves cleaning and truing up all the edges and cutting and polishing some of the detail.  The plate requires more detailing but I've done enough for inletting.  Note that this plate has deep lobes shapes along the edge that flare.  This is not an easy inlet and that process is harder because your are inletting on a round surface.  As you cut the mortice in, the plate goes in but those features wrapped around the sides go in and down.  Anything flared feature risks creating a gap behind the flare as the plate goes in and down. The trick is two-fold.  First, cut the mortice in at the top of the wrist first so the plate moves down.  Second, any feature, like the bugle on the lower right, that flares and wraps down the side, gently bend it up so you can inlet the top without that feature interfering.  That is the way to also inlet pistol butt caps with long stirrups on the sides. 




This shows the mortice outlined by my inletting chisel.  I undersized the outline for the bugle flare at the lower right anticipating it will move down a little as I inlet the plate.  This is a point of no return.  I cannot fix it if I botch the job and all my previous work is wasted.



Great relief!! The job ended very well.  I have to file and detail the plate a bit in spots to bring it flush with the wood because the curvature did not match that of the wrist exactly.  The blacking is from inletting black.  I cannot handle the plate without getting it on my hands and spreading it to the wood.  It really shows the checkering. Regardless, from here on out I have no fear.  I am beyond that now and it feels great!!!  The plate is anchored with a bolt through the wrist and into the threaded boss on the back side of the plate. The closeness of that bolt to the trigger guard lug emphasizes how important drawn plans are to prevent problems. 








dave

[rich pierce]

Those officers sure had it good if they had such fine fusils as this.

[TommyG]

These kinds of decoration are really sphincter puckering because you really can't fix them if you blow it.

Dave, I have this problem with the basic of decoration.  The level you are working on is incredible and also inspiring.  Looking forward to this Fusil as it progresses to finish.  TommyG

[smart dog]

Those officers sure had it good if they had such fine fusils as this.

Hi Rich,
Many officers were pretty wealthy and bought their commissions.  For example during the early 1800s, an ensign's commission was worth (in today's dollars converted from British pounds) $51,250.  A lieutenant's commission  cost $80,000, a captain $206,250, a major $366,250, and a Lt. colonel $515,000.  When an officer bought a higher commission, he sold his current commission and paid the difference for the new commission. The British believed only men of wealth had a real stake in the empire and they wanted only those stakeholders to command the army.  Interestingly, it was not that way in the navy, in which a man with limited resources could obtain high rank.

The wrist plate actually is from my second or export quality fowler.  It apparently was no big deal for those skilled workers to inlet.  I probably would make them shake their heads.


dave

[Curtis]

The checkering turned out great, Dave.  Nice job on the wrist inlay as well! 

Curtis

[smart dog]

Hi,
Thanks for looking and commenting folks. A few details I wanted to share.  The first photos shows the mortice for the wrist plate.  As you can see, it is somewhat complicated.  I had to file away some details on the plate to bring the metal down flush with the wood at some locations.  This is because the radius of the plate differs a little from the wrist. I will cut those details back in later and it will look exactly like the original casting.



I did some drilling chores today.  First, I drilled the rear pins anchoring the trigger guard. I use 5/64" spring steel rod for the pins.




Next I drilled and installed the cross pin for the butt plate tang.  The tangs were anchored either with a cross pin or the lug under the tang was filed into a hook that slid under a stud installed in the mortice.  Rarely, if ever was a screw used like in long rifles.  The only exception of which I am aware is the pattern 1757 marine and militia musket. 





The next thing I did was drill for the cross pin anchoring the bottom of the standing breech.  These breeches always had a cross pin on the bottom or a bolt threaded into the bottom of the breech that was hidden under the trigger guard or was used to anchor the front extension of the guard. The latter design was a feature from the 19th century.






Unfortunately, most modern made standing breeches lack the under lug because modern manufacturers and many builders are ignorant of the correct design.  The pin or bolt holds the breech down securely so a snug fitting hook on the barrel, which you should want, does not lever breech up during installation and removal of the barrel.  Finally, I filed a decorative molding along the forward edge of the standing breech.  The design is similar to one used by John Twigg and will be refined as I finish the gun.





dave

[Pukka Bundook]

Beautiful work Dave!   
Lovely to see your chequering, but it still give me the shudders thinking about doing it!
I have not done many , and they made me want to scream! (Wrap -around)

It's going to be simply Stunning when finish'd.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Thanks for looking and kind comments.  I put a brass rivet in the nose band to hold it in place and final detailed the stock.  After sanding the stock with 220 grit, I finished the breech tang carving.  Then I stained the stock with alkanet root infused in mineral spirits and double checked details and for scratches. Finally, I applied Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil that was thinned with mineral spirits and alkanet root stain. I applied the oil with 220 grit sandpaper.  Sanding creates a slurry, which I will let dry overnight.  Tomorrow, I will sand the stock smooth with 320 grit paper and the slurry will have filled the open grain of the walnut.  After that process, I will assemble the rifle and check that everything still fits and works.  Then I will apply unthinned tung oil until I build up a nice satin sheen. While the stock is drying, I will polish the brass, finish the wrist plate, mount the sights, polish and heat treat the lock, and engrave the hardware. 

dave 

[Craig Wilcox]

Dave, others - was similar checkering ever used on Jaeger rifles?  I used similar checkering on a Pedersoli pistol kit, and put a little silver (Argentium) blob in the center of each square.  Barrel on that pistol was 16.375", and you held it with both hands - the non-dominant on the forestock.  But maybe would like to do that on a Jaeger - without the Argentium.

[Dphariss]

Great tutorial. Thanks

[Mick C]

Loving watching this amazing rifle come together.  That's really going to be one fine smoke pole.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Thank you all for looking and commenting.  There are other threads and tutorials that cover the basics of muzzleloading gun making.  My hope is that my threads fill in specific details about certain kinds of guns that you don't get from the broader discussions.   

 I stained the stock with alkanet root and a little golden maple oil soluble aniline dye.  The color will be very nice and bring out the grain in the wood.  I am still putting on coats of finish but am waiting until the current coat really cures.  Then I will go back and refresh the checkering and add the 4 tiny dots in each large diamond.  Lots, and lots, and lots, of dots.......   After staining and the first coat of finish, I decided I did not like the way I shaped the bottom of the fore stock where it merges with the lock panels.  I left it too flat looking and wanted a narrower curve that made a more pronounced knuckle at the front of the lock panels.  So, I got out my rasp, files, scrapers, and sand paper and shaped it better.  Then I stained and sealed it with finish.   I am happy now.  Today I finished detailing and polishing the wrist plate.  I show the rough castings along with the original and then the finished plate on the left with the 255-year old original.  It came out OK!  There are a few minor differences but I think it is a keeper.  More to come.










dave

[smart dog]

Hi Folks,
Got a lot done on several projects.  The wrist checkering is finished.  I added a dot to each quadrant within a large diamond.  That amounts to over 1,020 dots.  It is a style used by Twigg, Durs Egg, Henry Nock and others during the last half of the 1770s and into the next decade. Eventually the little quadrants became stand alone diamonds and the dots were abandoned evolving into the flat topped checkering we associate with British work from the end of the 18th and throughout the 19th centuries.  I have an original gun from the period with a simpler version of this checkering.  The dots looked to me simple awl pricks that swelled and filled when finished and barely show.  However, many guns with this checkering show prominent dots that still have depth despite finish. So I decided to make mine more than just awl digs.  I marked each location with an awl and hand pressure, then deepened the hole with a pin punch and hammer. Then I made the hole larger with a larger punch.  The result are dots that actually create a rough surface. 



I finished engraving the side plate.  It came out well.  I engraved a twisted rope border around the shield and an "embowed arm holding a sword" on the shield.  That is a heraldic symbol meaning courageous leadership in battle.  It is perfect for an officer's fusil. 

dave   

[J. Talbert]

Great, great project Dave.

Especially like that side plate.

Jeff

[Kingsburyarms]

Very Nice - they used the same on the Bedford Flag (Bedford MA) it is claimed to be the first flag ever flown by an american force in battle (Concord/Lexington) the original is in the Bedford Library - fun to see it.

[Craig Wilcox]

Really enjoying the way you are sharing your build.

I think, if I were to copy some of your checkering tools, that I would use one of my metal checkering files to cut the little teeth - at 20 lpi, i think it would be very effective.

[Marcruger]

Beautiful work Dave, all around. 

Here's a tip I learned from my dad that may be useful to someone on checkering.  Dad did quite a bit of checkering, and hated "gloppy" filled-in checkering with too much finish. 

When adding the finish to checkering, he said to add one drop of finish to the checkering area, and then scrub it in completely with a soft, clean toothbrush.  Let it settle in.  If the checkering isn't all sealed, then another drop, and scrub it in again.  He said it prevented getting too much in the checkering. 

He also used blue painters masking tape to seal off the checkering while finishing the rest of the stock.  Recently he was looking at longrifle carving, and said he'd finish that the same way. 

Hope this is useful to someone. 

I am enjoying the "work along" pictures Dave.  Please keep them coming. 

God Bless,   Marc

[smart dog]

Hi,
I finished engraving the butt plate and fitting the screws.  I think I captured the look and feel of English engraving from the mid 18th century.  The rococo elements such as asymmetry, exaggerated leaves and scrolls, and shells are pronounced.  Only small square and round gravers are needed.  I engraved a thistle in the little frame near the heel of the plate.  Perhaps the rifle was owned by a British officer from Scotland.  The mounting screws were countersunk and then file flush with the brass.  After fitting, I case hardened the heads and temper blued them.  Tomorrow I finish the trigger guard.

dave

[Daryl]

Beautiful work, Dave.

[smart dog]

Hi,
I got a lot done.  The finish on the rifle is done and much of the engraving.  I am working on polishing the barrel and installing the sights and bayonet lug.  I have to use an existing repro British bayonet, cut off the blade, and weld it to a new socket that fits the barrel.  I've assembled the rifle and checked all the parts.  The trigger pull is 1.5 lbs with absolutely no creep.  I still have to engrave the standing breech and trigger guard.  I finished polishing, tuning, and finishing the lock.  I case hardened the plate, cock, top jaw, and frizzen.  During that process, I temper the frizzen to 375 degrees F but the rest to 600 degrees.  I left the blue tempering colors on the plate, cock, and top jaw and when they were still warm, I rubbed them with boiled linseed oil and rottenstone.  That fine polish deepens the color and gives a nice finish.  It will  eventually fade to a polished silver gray. I put a sole on the frizzen using a piece of 1095 spring steel, which was hardened.  After cleaning up the cast frizzen and getting rid of rough areas on its face, it was too thin for my liking.  It needed more mass.  So I cut a sole, tinned the surface of the frizzen with Stay Bright low temp solder, and clamped the sole on top and heated until the solder flowed again.  When cooled, I ground all the edges flush and clean everything up.  Then I clamped the sole and frizzen and heated it all again to 375 degrees in my oven.  That assures the sole is not too hard so that a flint does not cut it.  I assembled the lock and tested everything.  Even with flints too large (as in the photos) it showers the pan with abundant sparks over and over and over again.  The over sized flint (I don't have any the right size) is held securely by the teeth I cut into the cock and top jaw.  They are far superior to those useless ridges you see on some manufacturers flint cocks.   The bend I put in the frizzen spring where the frizzen toe touches it acts to some degree like a cam. It creates good resistance to the frizzen moving until the toe goes over the hump and then that resistance diminishes.  It is a bit like having a roller bearing on the spring or toe of the frizzen.  The inside photo of the lock shows the crisp and precision fit of the parts. The lock is smooth as silk. I cut the edge molding around the lock plate and the flint cock. I have a lot of experience doing that and the molding is not a flat bevel.  It is ovoid in profile, which is much more difficult to produce but historically correct.  More to come.

dave         

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Great attention to detail Dave...enjoying this build a lot.

[Clint]

Dave,
Many of us on the forum stagger along building southern rifles or Pennsylvania styles, (some of them very high order) You have put yourself into a category that lets the reader relax, I know how the story will end and I completely enjoy reading the progress toward the that end. One of the things that caught my eye was when you inlet the thumb piece, you commented of the inlay black mess. That reminded me of a cast silver patch box lid that I just made. In order to flatten the underside of the lid , I glued a small "T" shaped (folded) piece of cardboard to the face of the lid. That gave me a handle for jointing and spared my fingertips from twenty minutes of 220 grit. I used some spray adhesive to hold the cardboard on and everything  later washed off with a little acetone.
Incredible fusil build It is a shame that Dixon's is out for this year. We will have to wait to see it.
C W