Author Topic: Removing bulk wood from stock (Read 8658 times)

Maineshops · « **on:** March 20, 2020, 04:33:19 PM »

I’m getting close to shaping a stock. I bought a sureform tool and it is grabby and I don’t have the strength to use it effectively . I turned the blade backwards and used a pull stroke and that helped. Is there a better solution to removing bulk wood? Getting down to detail with the rasps goes just fine. Not looking for speed but just easier on these old arms. Dan

Scota4570 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 20, 2020, 04:43:49 PM »

I do not use sureforms, tried them. For rouging a new sharp hoof rasp works well. For more controlled action I use smaller rasps. On straight grain wood I use a spoke shave a lot.

Bob McBride · « **Reply #2 on:** March 20, 2020, 04:50:45 PM »

I’ve started using the Shinto rasp. Works like a charm.

Mike Lyons · « **Reply #3 on:** March 20, 2020, 04:52:15 PM »

I've been using an adjustable bench plane. Be careful though, you can rapidly take off a lot of wood. The “Mike Brooks tutorial” is a good resource for building guns and you pull a lot of tips from his advice.

Frank · « **Reply #4 on:** March 20, 2020, 05:00:58 PM »

Low angle block plane. Easy to control.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-low-angle-block-hand-plane-with-adjustable-mouth

Robin Henderson · « **Reply #5 on:** March 20, 2020, 05:04:01 PM »

I've used this. Be careful...it removes wood really fast therefore you can ruin a stock just as fast.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/kutzall-original-dish-wheel-4-1-2-diameter-fine-dw412o230

WadePatton · « **Reply #6 on:** March 20, 2020, 05:04:34 PM »

This guy does it with a chainsaw:

I'm not that brave. And that's not easy on the arms (they are kinda small for saws though).

I've used: Farrier's rasp, draw knife, spoke shave, round sureform, and I just got one of those Shinto rasps, but haven't used it much.

Turning the tool (end for end) is often needed depending on the flow of your grain (reduces tearout). It's nearly always easier/faster to reverse cutting direction with your tool than to re-position your work.

rich pierce · « **Reply #7 on:** March 20, 2020, 05:08:05 PM »

Drawknife and scrub plane. I wish I’d learned about scrub planes 30 years ago. This one is a real old warhorse.

Bob McBride · « **Reply #8 on:** March 20, 2020, 05:21:09 PM »

In Mike Miller’s video series on the Boone rifle he uses a very small about 2”x1” trimming plane. Looks handy.

smallpatch · « **Reply #9 on:** March 20, 2020, 05:45:23 PM »

Not sure exactly where you are in the process, so here goes.
Bandsaw to basic shape, drawknife, planes, Spokeshave, then rasps to final shape.
Iwasaki rasps. VERY AGGRESSIVE, but leaves a smooth surface.
Hope that helps.

oldtravler61 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 20, 2020, 06:09:09 PM »

What smallpatch said.... Oldtravler

Pete G. · « **Reply #11 on:** March 20, 2020, 06:54:18 PM »

Spokeshave and Vixon file.

577SXS · « **Reply #12 on:** March 20, 2020, 07:33:31 PM »

That Shinto is awesome, I have one and it takes wood off fast.

satwel · « **Reply #13 on:** March 20, 2020, 08:21:38 PM »

I use a spoke shave and a Nicholson farrier's rasp that I bought from Amazon.com to take off a lot of wood quickly. Be careful using a spoke shave on figured maple -- you can get a lot of tear out.

bob in the woods · « **Reply #14 on:** March 20, 2020, 11:34:18 PM »

Planes, spoke shaves, farrier's rasp , and scrapers. I have both convex and concave shaped planes as well as the regular block and scrub type. These take off the majority of the wood that needs to go.

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #15 on:** March 20, 2020, 11:54:29 PM »

I like the "cutting type tools" (planes, spokeshaves, chisels, drawknife, scrapers) better than the rasps but I do use mill files when required

Maineshops · « **Reply #16 on:** March 21, 2020, 01:20:27 AM »

Thanks for all the replies. I forgot to mention that this is very tight curl the full length of the thing so blades are in affective for the most part. They either skate or tear out. I bought a new Nicholson rasp and it is worthless . I sharpened one of my old rasps and it works but It will be a slow process. I’m working on 3 at one time so I have a lot of wood to remove. Building 2 32cal for the kids and restocking an old junker I have had in the corner for 50yrs. Milled this old log about 5 yrs ago that came in as firewood. Beginning to think I should have left it as firewood😓 . I’ll see if I can locate a Shinto rasp and see if that helps. I tried the stationary belt sander and that helps but I would be too easy for me to make a mistake.

Bob McBride · « **Reply #17 on:** March 21, 2020, 01:34:23 AM »

Quote from: Maineshops on March 21, 2020, 01:20:27 AM

Thanks for all the replies. I forgot to mention that this is very tight curl the full length of the thing so blades are in affective for the most part. They either skate or tear out. I bought a new Nicholson rasp and it is worthless . I sharpened one of my old rasps and it works but It will be a slow process. I’m working on 3 at one time so I have a lot of wood to remove. Building 2 32cal for the kids and restocking an old junker I have had in the corner for 50yrs. Milled this old log about 5 yrs ago that came in as firewood. Beginning to think I should have left it as firewood😓 . I’ll see if I can locate a Shinto rasp and see if that helps. I tried the stationary belt sander and that helps but I would be too easy for me to make a mistake.

They come in a plane and rasp configuration. I like them both.

albert · « **Reply #18 on:** March 21, 2020, 07:03:25 AM »

I have the Shinto rasp , and it removes wood better than my caninet rasps , and I have new old stock #49,#50 to compare it to .

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #19 on:** March 21, 2020, 03:46:14 PM »

I use my magic woo-woo stick.

heinz · « **Reply #20 on:** March 21, 2020, 05:58:07 PM »

Maineshops, If your rasp is grabbing you are probably going against the grain. Even modern rasps will dig in if you get backwards on the grain. I use drawknives and scrub planes so I had to learn to watch the grain direction. With any tool going with the grains will give you less grabbing and tear out.

A saw work well also (Ian Pratt uses a hatchet but he is just better than me with wood)

rich pierce · « **Reply #21 on:** March 21, 2020, 06:02:30 PM »

Heinz, I’m there with you on the handsaws. I have to take a break every now and then.

L. Akers · « **Reply #22 on:** March 21, 2020, 07:40:07 PM »

Quote from: Maineshops on March 21, 2020, 01:20:27 AM

I forgot to mention that this is very tight curl the full length of the thing so blades are in affective for the most part. They either skate or tear out.

If your blade tools are doing this, they are not SHARP. They need to be sharper than "scary sharp".

Daryl · « **Reply #23 on:** March 21, 2020, 08:58:27 PM »

I tried using a hatchet to remove excess wood, once.

Not English · « **Reply #24 on:** March 21, 2020, 09:20:15 PM »

No experience with shinto rasps, I hear good reports though. I use a pattern makers rasp. They have a random tooth pattern and do not clog. I use the coarsest one for almost everything after being sawed to shape. Nicholson is the only one making pattern makers rasps. There a little pricey compared to some rasps. Once tried, you'll never use anything else.

Dave

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Author Topic: Removing bulk wood from stock (Read 8658 times)