Removing bulk wood from stock

[Mike Brooks]

No experience with shinto rasps, I hear good reports though. I use a pattern makers rasp. They have a random tooth pattern and do not clog. I use the coarsest one for almost everything after being sawed to shape. Nicholson is the only one making pattern makers rasps. There a little pricey compared to some rasps. Once tried, you'll never use anything else.

Dave

The last "Nicholson" #49 I got from Brownells was made in Mexico with the kind of quality you'd expect from Mexico.

[john bohan]

just bought a farriors rasp at an amish harness shop .made in columbia but the thing cuts like magic,very sharp smooth cut and you don,t have to push down. I have not used the course side cause I never needed it,price $18

[curly]

If you want to take a lot of wood off in a short amount of time, with relatively good control, I use a 40 or 60 grit flap disk sander from Harbor Freight along with their 90 degree grinder. Works great.         

                                           Curly

[Maineshops]

Thanks for the input. I understand with the grain concept but this highly figured grain is an issue as well as working some areas of the stock It’s hard to always work with the grain.. going to try to resharpen my small spoke shave and see if I can make use of that. Ordered the Shinto rasp and well see how that works. In the meantime I’ll post another problem ....Dan

[Eric Krewson]

I used a US made Nicholson #49 for 20 years making bows, someone sold a bunch of US made #49s and 50s for $20 each on ebay and I bought one, I should have bought them all.

As soon as I put the new #49 to wood I realized just how dull my old #49 was. My old one went off to Boggs Tool to be sharpened, it cut as good as my brand new rasp when it came back.

I had heard that some folk were sending their brand new Nicholson (it was brazilian made) rasps to Boggs before they used them to bring them up to US standards.

[Maineshops]

You can see the material I have to remove on 3and 4.

[Maineshops]

Number one is the first one I did 40 or so years ago. #2is a restock. 3&4 are 32 cal . I built for the wife and the kids have been arguing as to who gets it when we die so I’m making two more to solve the issue🤔. Using 2 as a practice piece to learn how to do this stuff.....dan

[heinz]

Here is a drawknife at work on the forearm.  The second shot of sawn-off slab shows the wood figure in that area Third is an Auriou rasp and 4 is what it does.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

For removing a lot of the extra wood in a hurry, I use a good draw knife, bevel down, with a shaving sharp edge.  I follow it with a cabinet makers rasp that I think resembles the Nicholson 49 or similar.  With the big knife, one must pay very close attention to grain direction, and the wood must be well supported because a lot of force is used.

Here's two Hawken rifles getting attacked with the draw knife...

[Pukka Bundook]

Taylor,
I too use a draw-knife and as you say, watch the grain!
For more feel, I use one end, holding the end that's cutting pretty still, and levering with the other hand to put in shorter strokes.  This is for more finicky areas, or where the grain swaps direction often.
A decent spokeshave can do a lot as well, with less damage if it grabs the grain.

[G_T]

Not sure if  it can be readily done on stocks, as the front is a bit delicate, but when I was making self wood and laminated traditional bows I'd use a bandsaw. Holding a block of wood with a slight radius on the table as a guide, I could shave a paper thin sheet or strip of wood off with good control. There is no need to stop using a bandsaw just because you've gotten through the rectangular stage. Any angle works, if  you can keep the wood riding on the table even if at an angle.

Holding the wood at an angle and running it backwards through the blade works as a power rasp but still with pretty decent control. It's a decent way to carve out unwanted wood.

I donated my bandsaw to a local school though, so can't test with curly to see if there is any tearout issues power rasping with the bandsaw. Sorry. But I've never had issues with lots of other wood.

Gerald

[Nordnecker]

The safest way to remove those corners is by kerfing down to near depth with a handsaw. Make your cuts about a half inch apart and split the waste out with a chisel. The kerfs will keep the grain from running out too deep. Then you can start rasping followed by a spokeshave to finishing tools.

[heinz]

Nice drawknife Taylor, beautifully sharpened.  Actually what I showed is a spokeshave, not a drawknife. 

[scottmc]

A low angle block plane is great for that off cheekpiece side u show in your pictures.  Tried it for the first time on my last build and will continue from here on out.  One word of caution based on #1 in your photo.  Dont inlet your trigger guard until you are absolutely final shaped in the back and lock area.  You could set yourself up for problems and a not so nice looking rifle in that area.

[scottmc]

Meant to say picture #2😉

[Maineshops]

Just got my Shinto rasp and I think it will do the job just fine. Thanks for th tip...Dan

[bowkill]

I’ve started using the Shinto rasp. Works like a charm.

These are awesome...

[Waksupi]

I got a Harbor Freight power plane. Makes short work of lots of wood. Then the saw rasp, followed by the cabinet makers rasp, and final work with a Vulcanite file.  https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-making-hand-tools/wood-files/half-round-vulcanite-file-prod6764.aspx

[Lucky R A]

      I build between 15 & 20 guns a year all from a plank.  I have barrels inletted and the RR hole drilled.  After the tang and lock are inletted.  I put my layout lines on the butt stock and proceed to the 14" bandsaw with a good carbide blade.  I then slab off the excess material right up to the back of the lock.  I then carefully angle the stock on the bandsaw table and slab off the top to the layout line of the comb.  You have to be very cognizant of the architecture and rotate the stock as you push it forward through the blade to the wrist area.  The same procedure is used on the bottom to cut near to the toe line of the stock.  I then go back and clean up with careful cuts that often remove nothing more than sawdust.  When I am done I only have to hand saw the bottom of the cheekpiece line.  I then split out the wood to be removed with a hammer and chisel.  When I am done I only need a little dressing up with a # 49 .  One must be careful, but with the use of a well adjusted saw and a good blade it is rather easy, and no heavy wood removal like shown in the photo.


Ron

[Maineshops]

Ron....sounds like a good method. I don’t have the experience or control to do the angle procedures on the bandsaws. I’m looking at finishing these three in a year or so. It’s getting into spring and apple trees grafting and pruning. Projects get in the way of my gun building. Dan

[BOB HILL]

Lucky, you just described the method I've used for most of the guns I've built over the years. I've always hesitated to tell people to try this for fear of someone getting hurt with a bandsaw. I carved for many years before I started building guns and had lots of experience cutting carving blanks. The main difference I see is that I usually shape the cheekpiece area with a mallet, large parting tool and gouge. I start with a rasp then and scrapers.
Bob

[LynnC]

My ancient band saw is lucky to profile my stocks. Despite my efforts to repair the guides, the blade wanders just a bit sometimes resulting in a slimmer rifle than intended. Not a bad thing 😉

Those that can carve with a band saw are far advanced and I’m not knocking it in any way. If I could, I would but I must stick with my draw knife (slicing cuts and watch the grain), rasps and files, hand saw and chisels.

I occasionally use planes and have tried spoke shaves. For some reason the planes work better for me than the shaves.  I think we all develop techniques that work well for ourselves and we are comfortable with.

[BOB HILL]

Lynn, the first requirement is a well tuned bandsaw. After many years of use, mine needs a complete overhaul.
Bob

[WadePatton]

Lynn, the first requirement is a well tuned bandsaw. After many years of use, mine needs a complete overhaul.
Bob

There's a guy on youtube--a bandsaw tools rep for some company--and he does a set up seminar at an event--it's great.  He doesn't push the product while he's showing basics of proper setup.  I was lucky to see his first, then I saw about a dozen more that were not as good.  Highly recommended for anyone not fluent in bandsaw set up.

I've got one "spoken for" but haven't had the cash to go pick it up. Then we'll see how much I use it.

[LynnC]

My saw is pushing 70 yrs old and cost me a whole $25. Needs a total rebuild but i keep it limping along. I could buy a new one for the cost of rebuild parts.....if i had the spare cash.

It still beats hand sawing 😜